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AZrockclimber1988
Aug 9, 2007, 7:13 AM
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I found this site that sells the massive hard to find cams.
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html
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azrockclimber
Aug 9, 2007, 10:20 AM
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hmmm.... nice name...
(This post was edited by azrockclimber on Aug 9, 2007, 10:21 AM)
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 9, 2007, 5:01 PM
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Fixed. 
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trebork2
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Aug 9, 2007, 9:53 PM
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I hear they make a good murder weapon too
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AZrockclimber1988
Aug 9, 2007, 10:11 PM
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They look okay for being a single axle design. I would place them that way, less likely to pull out in a large fall.
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skinner
Aug 12, 2007, 9:16 AM
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#9 New Generation Aluminum SLCD - $150.00
#12 New Generation Aluminum SLCD - $225.00
You'll want to pick yourself up at least a 1/2 dozen of those #12's
*Cha-Ching*.. that'll be $125.00 a pound please!
or.. you could get yourself one of these.
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rockies
Aug 13, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Wow, that's amazing, definately the largest cam I have ever seen.. you sure it wasn't a camera trick
Anyway, I am sure it weighs a ton, I wouldn't be able to lift that let alone place it.. ha ha.
(This post was edited by rockies on Aug 13, 2007, 7:15 AM)
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skinner
Aug 13, 2007, 8:04 AM
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No photo trick, there are photos somewhere of them actually placing it. Took several of them, pulleys etc to hoist it up into the crack/chimney.
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the_climber
Aug 13, 2007, 6:37 PM
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climbinginchico wrote: skinner wrote: No photo trick, there are photos somewhere of them actually placing it. Took several of them, pulleys etc to hoist it up into the crack/chimney. Not true. You're thinking of a different cam that was made as a joke in Australia. The Valley Giants are used quite often in the Valley. They make some unprotectable places protectable.
Chico, I think you missed teh photo in Skinner's post just up a little from the one you quoted...
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rockies
Aug 13, 2007, 8:56 PM
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Amazing, but well sod that then, I won't be using any that big or carrying them 
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skinner
Aug 14, 2007, 10:24 AM
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rockies
Aug 14, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Well it seems "you" can though.. that's too funny
(and this is how I spend a few mins on my nightshift).
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rockies
Aug 14, 2007, 1:52 PM
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So, did you find any cracks large enough for the cam to fit?; and how many of you did it take to place it? Love to see that one..
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kimgraves
Aug 15, 2007, 5:45 PM
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Never understood why you'd need more than one of these - just push it out in front of you - essentially protecting yourself on TR.
I have a vague memory that the Valley Giants are no longer being made. Not surprising. This is essentially a custom made piece. It should be three times the price to make any money. Anyone know different?
Best, Kim
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atg200
Aug 15, 2007, 6:28 PM
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Well, just pushing it along gets pretty scary after 70 feet or so. I've used them to put up some new routes that were sustained 7-11" cracks for 120 feet.
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the_climber
Aug 15, 2007, 6:40 PM
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atg200 wrote: Well, just pushing it along gets pretty scary after 70 feet or so. I've used them to put up some new routes that were sustained 7-11" cracks for 120 feet.
That's kind what I was thinking... it's still just one piece.
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omenbringer
Aug 20, 2007, 12:12 PM
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Apollodorus is the maker and he used to visit this site regularly (not sure if he still does). Last I had heard he makes them in small batches every few years.
Also if memory serves me, the advice for use was to push this along as a floating top rope (as posted), then every so often put in a big bro below for protection.
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angry
Aug 20, 2007, 2:00 PM
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I absolutely love the 9" piece. I'm finding it more useful everyday. The 12" doesn't see as much use, for my skinny ass once I get into that size it's usually easy and I don't like to carry weight.
I still bring it along with me on trips, just in case I need to fight a gang of mutant boars or something.
Contact Tom and see if he'll make them. I think these things are a steal at the price.
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moof
Aug 29, 2007, 5:18 PM
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omenbringer wrote: Apollodorus is the maker and he used to visit this site regularly (not sure if he still does). Last I had heard he makes them in small batches every few years. Also if memory serves me, the advice for use was to push this along as a floating top rope (as posted), then every so often put in a big bro below for protection.
He has been showing up on supertopo pretty often under the moniker "Tom". They are solid. Worth every penny.
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brutusofwyde
Sep 2, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Second that. I have three #9s and two #12s. Rarely take more than one of each, but on really long wide, two or even three are very nice.
Using a zip line through a pulley at your waist, you can have the second send up what you need without ever taking your arms out of the crack.
(This post was edited by brutusofwyde on Nov 10, 2007, 1:05 AM)
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apollodorus
Nov 6, 2007, 7:24 AM
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Is THIS what you mean, when you say giant cams?
9", 12" and 16" Valley Giant cams.
The #9 is the one you want. The #12 is rarely needed. The #16 is so expensive, you don't want to ask how much it costs.
The entire 9th pitch of Excalibur required #9 size gear. I took five when I did that wall. A minimum of two, for crack-jugging, would be required. You can't really push a single piece up that pitch, unless you're doing hard 5.12 OW moves. Check the photo at my website:
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper
For size comparison, here are, left to right, a #4 Camalot and a Valley Giant #16.
The sizing number of the Valley Giant cams is based on the original Jardine formula: the number is the span, inches, when tipped out.
The solid trigger wires, instead of flexible cable wires, seem to be a point of conversation.
I have tried the cams both ways, and for pushing a cam up the crack, the solid wires work better, because they keep the head of the cam steady. Flexible, cable trigger wires, like the WC6, allow the cams/head to rotate, clack, and fall out if you try to push it up a crack. The solid trigger wires stabilize the head of the Valley Giant, so you can easily, and reliably, push it up a crack. The trigger of the Valley Giant is designed to let the trigger wire slide down, out the bottom of the trigger, for flared placements.
(This post was edited by apollodorus on Nov 6, 2007, 8:46 AM)
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