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majid_sabet
Sep 23, 2007, 6:28 AM
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On your fast&lit simul crack climbing expedition, your slow partner got hit by a rock and he can't move. His 180 lbs of dead weight is pulling you down against your last protection. Several solid cams are placed every 18-25 feet within the 170 feet to your partner. The lead rope also ended with a twist over your leg as he fell so it is slowly cutting circulation on your right leg. Your movement is down to near none as you are facing the wall with full tension pulling on you. You have the typical multi pitch climbing gear with you but only took one rope before this incident.
What is your plan?
E
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 23, 2007, 6:40 AM)
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johnathon78
Sep 23, 2007, 1:49 PM
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Well, its a good thing that I'm the one who's 170 feet off the ground and not him. It appears that he is only 5-10 feet off the ground. I would clip into my last peice, then cut the rope. Its called taking one for he team. Whether its hooking up with a fat chick for your friend, or getting hit by a pitch to take a base, or falling 10 feet feet unconsciously to the ground....every man has to do their time. Then build a legit 3 point anchor and wait for his half dead, limp body to come to. Then, as he stops the bleeding from his head, tell him that we were dive bombed by an ancient teradactyl who made multiple attempts to take our lives but only managed to make his pass out in fear and then cut our rope. Chances are the freind climbing with me would be stoned, and recently awakening from head trauma...so he would believe it. Then make his ass walk to get me some help and bring back a #6 from taco bell with no sour cream and a Dr. Pepper. Oh and hot sauce. But thats just me talking.
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paintrain
Sep 23, 2007, 3:48 PM
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It is important to follow this step by step.
1. Make a mental note to not clip the rope into your gear by reaching behind your butt, pulling it over your leg to clip your horrendously rope dragged piece.
2. Take off your cliffhanger style climbing gloves.
3. Let go of the rock while pulling a counterclockwise 360 degree spin in the air to free yourself from the 11mm boa constrictor (a mute grab would be added style points).
4. Use your bolt gun to set a belay and call headquarters for a helicopter pickup on your headset.
This is a bit of a ridiculous scenario.
Really (Untwist your leg from rope by above maneuver).
1.Set anchor
2.Escape rope/belay.
3.prussic down rope
4.Secure partner.
5.Prussic up rope and clean gear
6.Rap 2x to partner leaving anchors.
7. Continue down by a variety of methods.
pt
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el_layclimber
Sep 23, 2007, 3:54 PM
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The above sounds pretty reasonable.
And, as per our last rescue, having a second rope would make everything much easier.
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wanderlustmd
Sep 26, 2007, 7:22 PM
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plus this
Happily ever after
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joeforte
Sep 26, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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The use of tiblocs on the most bomber pieces would have been a good idea.
So the moral of the story is, if you're not gonna use tiblocs, make sure you bring a knife and marijuana.
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el_layclimber
Sep 26, 2007, 11:13 PM
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Yeah, I used to only carry a single-blade knife in case I had to cut the rope, but then I realized I might also have to saw my own arm off so I upgraded to the Swiss Army multi-tool as well.
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abock33
Sep 27, 2007, 12:53 AM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
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It's posts like these that make the day go by better. Keep up the Great work.  
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