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hershelgibbs
Nov 7, 2007, 10:07 PM
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After a year and a half climbing my climbing shoes(Madrock Flash's) finally got a hole in the toe area. I recently went to the local climbing gym to buy a new pair of shoes. I loved my Flash's but I feel like I should get a different shoe. I want velcro and every shoe that they had at the store was around the $125 range. It seemed like you either had to buy a $70 shoe or a $135 one. I almost bought the anasazi velcro but I couldn't force get myself to fork over that kind of cash so I didn't buy a new shoe.
Heres my question:
Is a $135 shoe significantly better than a cheaper shoe or am I just being duped into forking over $135 dollars for a climbing shoe.
Also, does anyone else think its crazy to spend $135 on a climbing shoe?
(This post was edited by hershelgibbs on Nov 7, 2007, 10:11 PM)
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ja1484
Nov 7, 2007, 10:12 PM
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Firstly, $110-$150 climbing shoes aren't expensive. $450 custom-made climbing shoes from an Italian cobbler are expensive (a friend, not me).
That said - Mad Rock shoes do tend to have durability...issues. More expensive pairs tend to last longer...the exception being Evolv, who makes arguably the most durable shoes out there, and some rather reasonably priced ones (Defy) as well.
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randomtask
Nov 7, 2007, 10:12 PM
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It depends.
If it took a year and a half before you need a resole I wouldn't get an expensive shoe since it sounds like you don't climb that much. If you climb all the time just find one that works for you. I have expensive shoes that I love (Muiras, testerossas) and cheap shoes that I love (moccasym).
-JR
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caughtinside
Nov 7, 2007, 10:14 PM
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it depends. They can be worth it, but maybe not. heh heh.
THe important thing is to find shoes that fit really well. Some brands don't fit me well at all, Madrock is one of the worst on my feet. BUt if Madrocks fit me, I'd give them a try.
if the rest of your old shoe is in decent shape, you should consider the budget option and have them resoled.
Oh, I try never to buy shoes at full price, wait for the store or the model to have at least a 20% sale.
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kyote321
Nov 7, 2007, 10:20 PM
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sportivas are definately worth it. i find that madrocks wear well on plastic, but are very imprecise outdoors. i find sportiva to be the opposite.
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 7, 2007, 10:24 PM
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It depends on what style shoe you climb in. If you climb in mocasins then the mad rock flash is an excelent slipper with excelent performance and price. Probobly their best shoe. If you are looking for a stiffer crack shoe or a really agressive edger then you need a lined shoe with those features. Again fit will be more important than brand.
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hershelgibbs
Nov 7, 2007, 10:26 PM
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I was thinking of getting them resoled but I heard that costs $30-40 which is half of what I paid for my shoes anyways so I figure I might as well buy a new pair. I also want to try out a different brand of shoe, change is good.. right?
(This post was edited by hershelgibbs on Nov 7, 2007, 10:28 PM)
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shockabuku
Nov 7, 2007, 10:42 PM
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Change may be good if you find a good fit in the style shoe you want. Personally if I like the shoe, or even tolerate it for a mileage shoe, I get them resoled (unless it was a cheap shoe to begin with i.e. same cost as a resole). If it's half the price of a new shoe, then it's like 2 for 1 to get them resoled since they come back basically brand new but already broken in (from a decent resoler). I've had my Katana's resoled about 3 times and my Mythos' about 4 times (they're getting kinda beat).
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keithspernak
Nov 7, 2007, 11:09 PM
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Shoes are a tough one, especially now that there are so many different companies making quality footwear. I have worn the Flash and thought it was a great shoe. In fact, I just got another pair for face climbing. I have also gone through a few pairs of Anasazi velcros and thought they were great also. The Anasazi's might have performed a bit better but I think I was performing a bit better. If you have the cash get he Anasazi's, but the Flash is also a great shoe. Go to you local outdoor store and ask. Believe me outdoor retail people are actually stoked when folks come in to talk climbing gear. Most customers at outdoor stores are yuppie soccer MILFs who pay credit for overpriced Patagonia stuff.
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cellardoor
Nov 7, 2007, 11:18 PM
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It depends, mainly on what you want out of it. If your trying to push squeeze every bit of performance out of yourself, then get the shoe that best works for you no matter what the cost (note this does not nec. equate with expensive). If you are just having fun and climbing things under 5.12 overhang or thin 11 face then get whatever cheap shoe feels good.
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coastal_climber
Nov 8, 2007, 2:57 AM
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To start with, Anasazi's dominate. I recommend getting a pair. Or two.
As said, Madrocks have durability issues, no joke. If you are doing any outside face/crack climbing I really reccommend the Muira's. I don't think its crazy to spend that much if I know what I want, and know it will perform well.
>Cam
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dretket
Nov 8, 2007, 2:38 PM
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keithspernak wrote: Shoes are a tough one, especially now that there are so many different companies making quality footwear. I have worn the Flash and thought it was a great shoe. In fact, I just got another pair for face climbing. I have also gone through a few pairs of Anasazi velcros and thought they were great also. The Anasazi's might have performed a bit better but I think I was performing a bit better. If you have the cash get he Anasazi's, but the Flash is also a great shoe. Go to you local outdoor store and ask. Believe me outdoor retail people are actually stoked when folks come in to talk climbing gear. Most customers at outdoor stores are yuppie soccer MILFs who pay credit for overpriced Patagonia stuff.
You have no idea man. I would love it if rather than some spoiled little snob coming in and demanding a $300 shell, I got a person looking for a pair of quality climbing shoes. The people that come into the shop I work for are rarely cool, and spend money on shit they wont use. That said, Im sure that any shop that you go into will be stoked to help you.
The thing that I like about more expensive shoes are the synthetic liners. they will stretch less, and I dont have to kill my feet for weeks (i.e. mocs). Also the higher end rubber such as stealth onyx seems to work out better for me. While it is a little stickier, it's mainly alot more durable. After using my shoes 5 days a week for 6 months, Im still no wear near a resole.
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vtrescuekid
Nov 8, 2007, 3:06 PM
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Personally I'm a huge fan of La Sportiva's. I currently climb in Barracuda's and Miuras. They're both amazing and super comfortable. If you're looking for a velcro shoe specifically try the Katana.
Mad Rock's seem to wear out quicker than most shoes from seeing my friends that wear them.
As others have mentioned, the higher priced shoes tend to have the synthetic liners that won't stretch and don't take as long to break in. My Barracuda's took 3 days to break in and now they feel like they're molded to my feet and custom made.
The biggest thing though is comfort. Try on different shoes. Try the Katanas, Miuras, Galileo's, Anasazi's, Pontas and Defy's. Go with whatever feels best.
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ltj999
Nov 15, 2007, 1:35 AM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2006
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honestly, dont look at the price tag. what ever fits you, and you like climbing with and that gives you the most confidence are the best shoes for you. I have a friend who climbs v7 consistently and swears by mad rock phenoixes, i think their shit, they fit his feet perfect so he loves them. would he climb better in a 150$+ pair of shoes, probably not. its all person preference.
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vegastradguy
Nov 15, 2007, 7:50 AM
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well, climbing shoes arent exactly cheap to make, nor are they made at a production level that would allow them to be very cheap. even companies like Evolv and Mad Rock have shoes in the $100+ range.
i also know that lots of the really high end models in recent years are incorporating technology that presents a real challenge to the shoe maker to work into the shoe....
so, here's the real answer. get the shoe that fits your foot. if you're lucky, that shoe will cost you $65. if you're not, it'll cost you $135 or more. Doesnt really matter what the price is, though- because if it doesnt fit your foot, its not much use to you, now is it?
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rhythm164
Nov 15, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
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not if you don't know how to use them. THat being said, yea, my Anazazi Lace ups and Katanas perfrom way better than my first pair of crap Spires, but I didn't fork out big bucks for high performance shoes until I felt like A. I needed them, and B. my footwork was good enough that I wouldn't destroy them. Good shoes will elevate your game to a certain point, but there's no substitute for good technique.
if the price tag hurts, troll the internet for sales, you never have to pay full price if you don't want too.
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