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Torag7
Dec 3, 2007, 9:03 PM
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So my friend and I just completed our first multipitch lead and follow, the Prow (5.4) at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge. On the fourth (or in our case fifth) pitch, after you have moved up the left facing dihedral to the top, where are you supposed to go from there? We thought that that was the end of the climb, but were surprised to find that instead of easy licheny climbing, we were met with overhanging boulders and really nowhere to go. We moved left through some bushes and still had about 30-40 feet of really steep climbing to do before we got out. Our light was fading and we didn't really have time to contemplate the decision...is there another way up, or is that the right way? To the right looked like a drop into the amphitheater. Just wondering!
Great climb though, and perfect for a beginning leader.
- Phil
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knieveltech
Dec 3, 2007, 9:13 PM
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Torag7 wrote: So my friend and I just completed our first multipitch lead and follow, the Prow (5.4) at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge. On the fourth (or in our case fifth) pitch, after you have moved up the left facing dihedral to the top, where are you supposed to go from there? We thought that that was the end of the climb, but were surprised to find that instead of easy licheny climbing, we were met with overhanging boulders and really nowhere to go. We moved left through some bushes and still had about 30-40 feet of really steep climbing to do before we got out. Our light was fading and we didn't really have time to contemplate the decision...is there another way up, or is that the right way? To the right looked like a drop into the amphitheater. Just wondering! Great climb though, and perfect for a beginning leader. - Phil
Congratulations on the lead and thanks for posting up about this. I just started leading myself and was wondering about this route.
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gothcopter
Dec 3, 2007, 9:32 PM
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It sounds to me like you were on route. Pitch numbering can be a bit confusing when it comes to The Prow. Based on the pitch numbering in the Lambert/Shull Selected Climbs guidebook, here's my recollection of how we did The Prow:
Pitch 1 - Same as book.
Pitch 2 - Same as book.
Pitch 3 - Climb corner at left end of ledge and then continue up steep, juggy face above to another ledge. Belay here. There should be really steep, difficult looking rock above you. There's a crack off to the right, but it looks harder than 5.4!
Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of ledge and then up more vertical, really juggy, broken rock to the "top". There are trees and such, and block with a low roof right in front of you.
Exit - Walk up the gully to the right of the block in front of you, then cut left up the slabs and into the woods. Bushwack back toward the rim of the amphitheater, and if you're lucky you'll meet up with the trail going out. Otherwise, watch out for the Blair Witch!
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rsmillbern
Dec 3, 2007, 9:33 PM
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I have not done the prow, but the Mummy and Daddy are very nice. Alan, thinking about heading there next weekend, weather permitting.... I can give you all the beta you need on those two routes. Might try for all 3 in a day.
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Torag7
Dec 4, 2007, 1:31 AM
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Thanks a bunch gothcopter...good to know that we didn't go off route. The guide book is a bit confusing, and for pitch three i just went off pictures I had seen, but that last pitch was interesting. Thanks for the confirmation.
Knieveltech, just wanted to let you know if you are heading to the prow and hadn't been down that gully before, the guide is wrong. Turn right at the quartz block on the left and not at some tree. If you start going downhill a lot to the left you've gone to far, and trust me, you don't want to come back up that. Just thought i'd pass along that mistake if you haven't been there before!
Good climbing!
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knieveltech
Dec 4, 2007, 1:45 PM
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Sweet, I'm all about the beta. Enjoy the trip.
<hijack>
Speaking of beta, what's up with the 2nd pitch rap off the top of Sentinel buttress? I've heard rumors that it's sketch. Also, can you top out and just walk off towards Hanging Garden?
</hijack>
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rsmillbern
Dec 4, 2007, 1:57 PM
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Ha!! Compared to some other raps, that one is bomber! There are 2-3 ropes around a solid block with some rap rings. One rope will get you to the ground. I'd advise always having some webbing just in case at Moore's, but a few weeks ago the last rap on Sentinel was fine.
In reply to: I've heard rumors that it's sketch. Also, can you top out and just walk off towards Hanging Garden?
(This post was edited by rsmillbern on Dec 4, 2007, 2:02 PM)
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knieveltech
Dec 4, 2007, 5:32 PM
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rsmillbern wrote: Ha!! Compared to some other raps, that one is bomber! There are 2-3 ropes around a solid block with some rap rings. One rope will get you to the ground. I'd advise always having some webbing just in case at Moore's, but a few weeks ago the last rap on Sentinel was fine. In reply to: I've heard rumors that it's sketch. Also, can you top out and just walk off towards Hanging Garden? I have not done this, I'd just rap from the top of Sentinel. You can get down with one rope (~10 feet of down climbing on the first rap if you have a 60' rope). One rap from the ledge.
Sweet. Thanks for the beta.
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j_ung
Dec 4, 2007, 5:46 PM
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I prefer the walk-off from Moore's to the Sentinel rappel. Hike straight back until you hit an obvious trail, then turn left and follow almost to the old fire tower. From there, turn left and descend the steep gully to the ground. Walk rock-left to get to the bottom of Sentinel Buttress. It's safer than the rap and on crowded days, possibly faster.
As for the Prow, I had the same problem the first time I did it, picked my route and it paid off, so I've done it the same way each time. 2 pitches up easy low-angle terrain leads to a large ledge with overhanging boulders all around. The boulder to the left has an obvious weakness, though -- a ramp that leads up and left. It's very exposed, lots of fun and not significantly harder than anything else on the climb. Take that and it'll lead you to the big tree ledge with one more pitch to go. Look to the left on this ledge for the way up and out.
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knieveltech
Dec 4, 2007, 7:12 PM
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Thanks for the walkoff beta. That's great info for those of us that don't dig on rapping.
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