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throb
Dec 8, 2007, 3:08 AM
Post #102 of 144
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notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it.  Me to, but worse. When we put in the Obed, many of our anchors where fallen burned logs. The top had burned recently and dead logs were all that remained. We felt pretty confident because they were so large and surrounded by heavy brush. *Hangs head in shame* |
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diebetes
Dec 8, 2007, 3:14 AM
Post #103 of 144
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hanginaround wrote: [image]http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos3434/4/99/33/95/27/2/227953399405_0_ALB.jpg[/image] Found at a undisclosed crag in Baja - be sure to notice the open chain link
You mean the cold shut? (not to be confused with a welded cold shut)
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notapplicable
Dec 8, 2007, 3:24 AM
Post #104 of 144
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throb wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. Me to, but worse. When we put in the Obed, many of our anchors where fallen burned logs. The top had burned recently and dead logs were all that remained. We felt pretty confident because they were so large and surrounded by heavy brush. *Hangs head in shame*
You probably would have been better off with the "heavy brush" (assuming it was rooted) than the logs. Ah well, lifes full of lessons...
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dr_feelgood
Dec 8, 2007, 3:47 AM
Post #105 of 144
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notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame*
Bomber.
*holds head high*
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notapplicable
Dec 8, 2007, 4:20 AM
Post #106 of 144
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dr_feelgood wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame* Bomber. *holds head high*
Yeah, there is nothing like the sound of a single piece of webbing skittering (is that a word?) back and forth across a sharp edge, while you dog the route below. Lifts the spirit, it does.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 8, 2007, 4:27 AM
Post #107 of 144
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notapplicable wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame* Bomber. *holds head high* Yeah, there is nothing like the sound of a single piece of webbing skittering (is that a word?) back and forth across a sharp edge, while you dog the route below. Lifts the spirit, it does.
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harihari
Dec 8, 2007, 6:02 PM
Post #108 of 144
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Weird anchors? Here's a story...
I arrived at Sandstone Quarry in Red Rocks to find a guy in his mid 40s and his girlfriend/wife, with three topropes. The routes are bolted, but sparsely-- it is technical frictiony climbing with falls bigger than normal sport routes.
I led up a route between two of their topropes and at the top of the route saw....a rope strung between all of the anchors on the crag. He had taken a rope, tied it to the leftmost anchor, run it across to the next route, put a bight in, attached to the anchor with a locker, and proceeded across the crag. He had probably 10 anchors tied together.
I got lowered and asked him what he was doing and he said "I like a solid safety margin." So I asked him if he ever led.
"Nah," he said, "I'm not into risk and runouts."
He then moved one of his three top ropes to do the route that my partner and I had just led. He proceeded to get on the route, which handed him his ass.
As my female partner proceeded to follow (no falls) the route from which he had just moved his top-rope and which I then led, he got into a screaming match with his wife/girlfriend, supposedly about the quality of her belaying him while on top-rope.
He sauntered off to take a leak and when he was away his partner came over and said "He's a little stressed--
he's going to Iraq."
"Oh yeah? Army? What does he do?" I asked.
"Computer maintenance," she said.
(This post was edited by harihari on Dec 8, 2007, 6:08 PM)
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Tuwie
Dec 8, 2007, 7:37 PM
Post #109 of 144
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Registered: Apr 25, 2007
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Well it wasn't a climbing anchor but it was still an anchor so I guess it counts.
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rogue10186
Dec 9, 2007, 1:20 AM
Post #110 of 144
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Jesus, That is one of the biggest cluster fucks I've seen in my short (two and a half) year climbing career. WTF was that used for?
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c4c
Dec 9, 2007, 1:46 AM
Post #111 of 144
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Registered: Jun 18, 2006
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Where's madjid? that anchor needs a bunch of arrows and stuff. Looks like an italian TR anchor for a church camp climbing tower. (I've seen worse)
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 2:21 AM
Post #112 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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In light of his absence, I have done my best to replicate a majid image edit.
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Tuwie
Dec 9, 2007, 2:47 AM
Post #113 of 144
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It wasnt for holding a person so dont worry about that. It was just a way to hang some tools and pull up some materials.
I had to have a few different tools to work with right there and happened to have some gear in my trunk. I hung my saw off it, a grinder, eventually the backpack was hanging off it also to hold the screws and clips.
BTW I like the guy you drew in on top of the patio umbrella.
I took the pictures this summer when I first saw this thread with the intention of posting it months ago then forgot about them until the thread popped back up.
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 3:22 AM
Post #114 of 144
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I wasn't worried... just having fun 
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majid_sabet
Dec 9, 2007, 4:50 AM
Post #115 of 144
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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My editing remarks will stay in RC for long long time
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 4:57 AM
Post #116 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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majid_sabet wrote: My editing remarks will stay in RC for long long time
yep... that they will.
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drjghl
Dec 9, 2007, 8:59 PM
Post #117 of 144
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 135
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Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby?
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moditup
Dec 9, 2007, 9:32 PM
Post #118 of 144
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drjghl wrote: Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby?
Holy... I wouldn't even know what to do with that once I got there... Probably try chipping my own chicken head with a nut tool.
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camhead
Dec 9, 2007, 10:08 PM
Post #119 of 144
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well, the dryer isn't hooked up yet, so I needed extra space in the basement to hang laundry.
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tigerlilly
Dec 10, 2007, 1:39 AM
Post #120 of 144
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drjghl wrote: Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby? [IMG]http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/drjghl/zebratozionanchorsattopofpitch2.jpg[/IMG]
All that's missing is some duct tape. Eeek.
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full1346
Dec 11, 2007, 5:56 AM
Post #122 of 144
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Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 61
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i dont have a pic of it but i was cleaning a trad route in southeastern pa and one of the natural pro used was a rotten tree about the size of my wrist that had been lassoed with a sling. when i went to retrieve the sling the baby tree snapped off at its routes... fun stuff
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theswissfactor
Dec 11, 2007, 7:21 AM
Post #123 of 144
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Registered: Sep 3, 2006
Posts: 26
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Isn't that at the top of the second pitch of Zebra-Zion? Right above a pair of beautiful new 3/8" bolts?
It's been a while, so I could be wrong. Smith has some interesting relics. My partner and I rapped off a single rusty 1/4 after completing the Marsupial Traverse. Did a little bit of testing with a backup before trusting that one.
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drjghl
Dec 11, 2007, 5:25 PM
Post #124 of 144
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 135
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Zebra to Zion is a great route and yes, those tattered threads are on the top of the second pitch next to some bomber anchors.
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mushroom
Dec 12, 2007, 8:15 PM
Post #125 of 144
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This is from Welcome to the Gunks. Sorry the picture wasn't better, but what you dont see is that this mess of webbing is connects to a few of the sadder pitons that people still clip in the gunks, 2 opposed brassies, and that thin pink 6mm cord goes up to a fixed pink tricam. There's such a mess of webbing that you just clip your biggest biner to as much as you can. You can't tell where magic x's are or anything like that. I wouldn't be that surprised of this anchor kills someone one day.
edit: I forgot the picture
(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 12, 2007, 8:17 PM)
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