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bradkillough
Jan 1, 2008, 11:29 PM
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angry
Jan 1, 2008, 11:41 PM
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This reminds me of a joke I heard.
"A route developer, Jesus, and a troll walk into a bar."
<snip>
"Alabamer?! Damn near killed er!!"
Or something like that.
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johnwesely
Jan 2, 2008, 12:16 AM
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Relax. take a break. spell check your post. who cares if he climbed your sons project? do you own the rock? if he doesn't bag the FA will his self esteem get hurt?
p.s. whats with two threads about a some guy stealing a 35 foot sport route.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Jan 2, 2008, 12:17 AM)
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jcrew
Jan 2, 2008, 12:39 AM
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this is an old issue.........."closed projects" and such....
is there a time limit before it becomes an "open" project.
does it really matter if you get the FA if no one else is even trying it?
what about ethan pringle bagging that black and tan proj.... or secretly working the clark mtn/sharma mega-proj.?
was your son's proj. .15a? did the guy who bagged(climbed) it chip a new hold?
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photoguy190
Jan 2, 2008, 12:59 AM
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This seems a little odd and selfish to me, a route goes up and even though it is a small tight community you probably don't know everyone. How are they going to know its not free to climb yet? At the wall I work at we put up new routes and everyone works on it till someone climbs it. We don't care who it is everyone just are happy when someone climbs it. The thing i can't figure out, about your post is its not to anyone just a rant on the internet. How do you even know its been climbed? Tell your son to keep working on it, it won't take anything away from the accomplishment help will archive when he climbs it.
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supersonick
Jan 2, 2008, 1:08 AM
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I have to say I'm siding with the Jesus freak on this one. If his son red-tagged the route and someone snaked him then that is kind of a dick move if you ask me. If someone goes through all the work of finding, cleaning, and equipping a route then they should get a little time on it before it opens up. Seems like common courtesy to me.
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climbsomething
Jan 2, 2008, 1:17 AM
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photoguy190 wrote: This seems a little odd and selfish to me, a route goes up and even though it is a small tight community you probably don't know everyone. How are they going to know its not free to climb yet? At the wall I work at we put up new routes and everyone works on it till someone climbs it. We don't care who it is everyone just are happy when someone climbs it. The thing i can't figure out, about your post is its not to anyone just a rant on the internet. How do you even know its been climbed? Tell your son to keep working on it, it won't take anything away from the accomplishment help will archive when he climbs it.
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supersonick
Jan 2, 2008, 1:25 AM
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My god i did not notice that. What an unbelievable fucking dab. Or was he joking?
Photoguy, equipping a route outdoors is totally different than setting a route in a gym. An outdoors FA is forever, so it actually means something. I can't believe that even needs explaining.
If you equip a route outside and put a red tag on the first bolt it means you in the process of cleaning and/or trying to send it. You don't get forever on it, but you do (should) get a little time.
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photoguy190
Jan 2, 2008, 1:36 AM
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I'm not comparing the FAs I'm referring to a tight community at least in the community that I'm part of that we care less about who was the first accent was but that the route got done. Now I feel different about it the guys son had tag it and someone still climbed it. He did say that his son had been working on for a long time so how long has the route been put up and unclimbed?
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jt512
Jan 2, 2008, 2:07 AM
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bradkillough wrote: You stoled a project that my son was working on for a long time and I guess you forgot about respect for ohter climbers, next time check with some of the local's. just because it's newly bolted, does'nt mean you can just jump on it , thank's alot!
That was just easier than highlighting all the incorrect ones.
Jay
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tuna
Jan 2, 2008, 2:36 AM
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I did that route in 97.
I used a few small stoppers for the 1st FA.
ciao
Santana
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gunksgoer
Jan 2, 2008, 4:16 AM
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The OP didnt say anything about the route being red tagged... imo that makes it fair game. If your son really did mark the first hanger than it was a dick move, but its really weak to fight your kids battles online.
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rjtrials
Jan 2, 2008, 4:41 AM
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Brad,
the only other ascent in the DB is a 'hang-dog.' I am assuming this rant is because of the ascent logged. Next time check what type of ascent. Getting to the top doesnt mean you sent in spr0tc!1mb1ing...
RJ
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billl7
Jan 2, 2008, 4:54 AM
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Have some cheer - the story on this route may not yet be done!
Consider the moderate route "Stichter Quits" in Joshua Tree. Stichter put in the last bolt at the end of the day and decided to return the next morning to bag the free FA. He did send the route the next morning but ...
Unbeknownst to Stichter and his partner, a climber (very well known today in the climbing community) walked by around the time that the last bolt went in. This climber recognized that the free FA would occur the following morning. So, this climber decided to come back in the wee wee hours with a partner and bag the free FA for himself - and so it happened although Stichter didn't know this until much later.
To make an already too long post shorter, the truth eventually became public knowledge. Now, the route is aptly named "Stichter Quits" ... although I think that's not the chosen name by either ascentionist - certainly not by Stichter who called it something like "Blue Wave".
This is all written down in one of Randy Vogel's new guides for Joshua Tree (the "west" version?) - it's the first guide in a planned trio and was first published in 2006.
So, your son is in good company. Perhaps the thief would not object to a similar name in this case.
Bill L
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supersonick
Jan 2, 2008, 5:22 AM
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I just assumed he red-tagged it. What the hell right does he have to complain otherwise?
No red tag and your project is fair game.
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zenelky
Jan 2, 2008, 2:31 PM
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I want to extend my most sincere apologies for stepping on your toes?!?
We went climbing in a new area, were walking around, saw a short little route to warm up on, climbed it, said it was fun, and continued on.
How were we suppose to know it was being worked? There was chalk all over it and had no indication that it was a project. Are people in the area just suppose to read your mind? I'm sorry, but we're not going to get all the beta on all the routes in the area before we climb them. If you're working a project, then tag it and people will stay off it, else we're going to be stealing a lot more of your routes...
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cchildre
Jan 2, 2008, 3:06 PM
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sevrdhed wrote: zenelky wrote: saw a short little route to warm up on Ohhh snap. They warmed up on your proj. Haha.
With no tag. It is open season my friend. I accidentally got the 2nd ascent on a route at the Tower, thankfully the designer, and FAist was hiking in as I lowered and he was really stoked that we were climbing his route. I would have felt a tad guily had it been the 1st, but no tag...too bad.
Sadly, this has happened to me all too often. Sweating over my project down in the canyon. A buddy Kevin hikes in after lunch. He proceeds to climb the fixed route, Puts the Buff On - 13a, and then downclimbs the 12d, hanging draws as he goes that is next to the my 11b project. Shakes out for about 5 minutes, then climbs and cleans the 12d, and lowers preparing for his attemp at, Straight Into Frantic Oblivion, which he rated 14b, and has no repeat to date.
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zenelky
Jan 2, 2008, 3:17 PM
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If it's really that big of a deal, your son can still get on it and get the first MALE ascent. If women settle to be tagged as having first female ascents, than he should be comfortable having the FMA...
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bradkillough
Jan 2, 2008, 5:40 PM
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I made my statement and that is all I have to say about it, And actually for the most part all of you are right, he didn't do it the first time and you can have it ! Just have to get your own hanger's jerk!
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bradkillough
Jan 2, 2008, 5:52 PM
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supersonick wrote: I have to say I'm siding with the Jesus freak on this one. If his son red-tagged the route and someone snaked him then that is kind of a dick move if you ask me. If someone goes through all the work of finding, cleaning, and equipping a route then they should get a little time on it before it opens up. Seems like common courtesy to me.
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noell
Jan 2, 2008, 5:56 PM
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bradkillough wrote: supersonick wrote: I have to say I'm siding with the Jesus freak on this one. If his son red-tagged the route and someone snaked him then that is kind of a dick move if you ask me. If someone goes through all the work of finding, cleaning, and equipping a route then they should get a little time on it before it opens up. Seems like common courtesy to me. That's All !!
So did he red tag it? Didn't sound like he did... there's no way anyone would know it's a project waiting to be done if the route didn't have a red tag on it.
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supersonick
Jan 2, 2008, 5:57 PM
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Did you red tag it or not?
If you did then your argument is valid. If you didn't then you should not complain and next time you'll know to do so.
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noell
Jan 2, 2008, 5:59 PM
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zenelky wrote: How were we suppose to know it was being worked? There was chalk all over it and had no indication that it was a project.
Sounds like there was no tag. I live in the southeast. We have LOTS of climbing around here - and lots of development in certain areas. If you don't red tag your new routes that you want the FA on... plan on someone coming around and climbing it.
Lesson to be learned- if you work hard, put in equipment, and don't want someone to climb on your newly found route- you've gotta put a tag on it.
I have found that people respect red tags and won't climb routes that are marked as such.
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