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penguinator
Jan 20, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2007
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Well thats because it's new genius 
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majid_sabet
Jan 20, 2008, 10:48 PM
Post #777 of 1722
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Need any of these?
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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billcoe_
Jan 24, 2008, 5:10 AM
Post #778 of 1722
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Wow, you look covered! Thanks Majid, but I'm covered.
And I'd given my old Grey Jumars to a buddy when they'd gotten long in the tooth or I have one more set too many:-)
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billcoe_
Jan 24, 2008, 5:15 AM
Post #779 of 1722
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One more pic. Missing is a Eurotrash hammer I'd snapped the head off of (and used a rock there after, and a perfect Moljineer hammer lost somewhere in my house that is too good of condition (warranty sticker still on it) to use.
Not that the Salewa has a cracked handle, and I need to replace that handle.
Have a bunch of pins, hooks, beaks, Crack N' Ups, etc and other trash as well not in the pics.
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billcoe_
Jan 24, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #780 of 1722
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Pics of the Forrest Moljineer hammer not shown above, it's the top on in the top picture, and a close up of used Kong Eagle and Forrest Wall Hammer next to it.
View of the sticker on one side
Top
Face
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evanwish
Jan 25, 2008, 3:38 AM
Post #781 of 1722
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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ok I’m almost embarrassed to post this.....
still working on it...
plus:
BD #0.1
BD #5
a few nuts
more shoes..
(This post was edited by evanwish on Jan 25, 2008, 3:44 AM)
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phillygoat
Jan 25, 2008, 3:50 AM
Post #782 of 1722
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Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
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billcoe_ wrote: [image]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/small_pic_Big_lead_cams.jpg[/image] Big Cams and some of Tom Kaspers Valley giants
Hey Bill,
Any of those VGs available for rental?
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billcoe_
Jan 25, 2008, 4:21 AM
Post #783 of 1722
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uhh, possibly, but do I get to follow? :-) and how many whippers ya planning on taking on them Phillip?
I have 3 routes in mind for them, and the pro will be critical as they are my limits and I hate offwidth to squeeze climbing.
Course, I just got these last year, never had pro for that size before which may explain why I suck at it and dislike it.
So yeah, drag me out and lets do it !
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phillygoat
Jan 25, 2008, 4:26 AM
Post #784 of 1722
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I have no idea how to climb those sizes- which is why I inquired about the VGs aka: the "portable top-rope anchors"!
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billcoe_
Jan 25, 2008, 4:40 AM
Post #785 of 1722
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Uhhh, you're leading these horrowshows...right:-)
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knieveltech
Jan 25, 2008, 5:56 AM
Post #786 of 1722
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
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Not shown:
shoes (3 pair)
2 ropes (60m & 70m)
2 harnesses
120' of webbing
rap rings
(This post was edited by knieveltech on Jan 25, 2008, 6:36 AM)
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markc
Jan 25, 2008, 4:50 PM
Post #787 of 1722
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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evanwish wrote: ok I’m almost embarrassed to post this..... still working on it...
You should be embarrassed about the picture quality, but you have a good start there. I am curious about the double gear sling... As far as what to do next, I'd pick up some longer slings to swap out with those dogbones when you're not sport climbing.
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caughtinside
Jan 25, 2008, 7:40 PM
Post #790 of 1722
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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billcoe_ wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: Well, I'm sure if you place all of them and peel, statistically speaking, at least one of them should hold.  Ha ha! Too funny:-) Yeah, sometimes I look over my shoulder and find myself wondering what the heck I'm doing. I get pissed that CCH hasn't fixed their quality issues, and it makes me wonder about my own stuff, and yet here I am: I didn't realize I was using my Aliens so much on this one till I got home and got a pic emailed to me like here last June on a first ascent 3 Aliens in a row.  I still like the lil things and find myself not backing them up where I know I should.
I can't believe joeseph is still friends with you. He won't even buy from retailers who sell aliens.
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billcoe_
Jan 26, 2008, 6:54 AM
Post #791 of 1722
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caughtinside wrote: I can't believe joeseph is still friends with you. He won't even buy from retailers who sell aliens.
Ha ha Caughtinside, funny stuff: perhaps I must have some endearing qualities.....but don't know what.
Nah. I doubt that.
He just generally won't use my stuff. I'd gotten all of them tested at CCH and I still have second thoughts sometimes myself. He doesn't trust Camalots either. (I've learned not to trust new stuff from BD/Chouinard either as they put out some 1st gen trash- remer reverse locking carabiners, one almost cost me my life, they don't sell them anymore and a bunch of their formerly "great" new innovations like foambacks etc etc, but I love the 4th gen Camalots. )
In fact I'll say that he is pretty adamant about just bringing and exclusively using his rack when we do get out. But mostly recently, when I have gone out with JH, which isn't too much, I've been belaying and he's been working a new FA hard trad line that no one else had the cahones to even think of trying. I include myself in that statement, in fact I think I'm experiencing shrinkage now just thinking of it.
Some of his stuff on his rack he's modified and no one else has anything like it, so he's pretty elderly and set in his ways like that and wants it along. However, I have seen that it pays him dividends on occasion. Like the small Lowe Balls, he heated the plastic and squeezed it down so it takes up less physical space when you need to place them deep in a crack. For setting the thinner sizes in any fine or thin crack, and I've see him do this, it really makes a difference in that the protective plastic tubing won't interfere with the placement like it would otherwise. He's got some Crack N' Ups that he fixed up too, he put on fixed fine sweged wires so they carry on the rack such so they do not catch as he climbs, and he's got those thin Mammut ultra tape slings already permanently attached by thread so he doesn't monkey with them at all: and I've seen him use this stuff, on lead, on a new route.
So yeah, I buy brand new stuff and retire my old lead stuff (like all my 3rd gen Camalots got E-bayed), but he wants to use his rack and it's totally understandable to me.
Here, check this to see what I mean:
See how when that wire is clipped off so when it's on your rack, the thing won't hang up on projections and lil roofs as you climb? (Imagine 6 of them).
This particular route is deceptively steep although it doesn't look it. I called it 5.10+, and I'd just got back from Yosemite and been climbing that grade, JH thought 10-. Where JH is standing there is almost the 100' mark so if you boffed before the second piece was put in..... well, that would be a long ride. The 1st piece was that crack N up above. Ujahn took the pic when we went out to do it again, so this is the 2nd ascent Joseph led it both times.
Joseph had later put a bolt in for the first piece, but hadn't got consensus, a few folks got cranked- as you could detour from the route on the left and clip it, so he removed. I wish it was still there.
The crack and ups don't get pulled out and used much, but on new routes, which typically have thin cracks full of mud and dirt which might otherwise need a pin, they seem to work well.
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billcoe_
Jan 26, 2008, 6:58 AM
Post #792 of 1722
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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I could be wrong, the 2nd piece might have been the crack and up. I'm only 53 but seem to forget stuff like this unless I write it down.
It was the first or the 2nd piece, and I wouldn't want to fall on it in either case.
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climbingtrash
Jan 26, 2008, 3:19 PM
Post #793 of 1722
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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Hey caughtinside, maybe you could talk billcoe outta one of his REAL hammers. hahaha.
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evanwish
Jan 26, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #794 of 1722
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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markc wrote: evanwish wrote: ok I’m almost embarrassed to post this..... still working on it... You should be embarrassed about the picture quality, but you have a good start there. I am curious about the double gear sling... As far as what to do next, I'd pick up some longer slings to swap out with those dogbones when you're not sport climbing.
yeah it was with a camera phone..... :/
i'm going to retake it soon with a real camera..
oh yeah bout that double gear sling [Black Diamond Zodiac], I've tried it both ways and i just like it how it distributes the weight better than just a single shoulder sling...
oh haa yeah i'm actually in the process of switching out the dogbones right now... lol
(This post was edited by evanwish on Jan 26, 2008, 10:27 PM)
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esallen
Jan 27, 2008, 2:03 AM
Post #795 of 1722
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
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http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmoonsage11
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climbingaggie03
Jan 30, 2008, 2:08 AM
Post #797 of 1722
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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wow, I thought I was the only person on earth that still uses yellow jumars. I actually had a guy stop me and take a picture of mine in the valley this fall, he'd never seen one before. He had the new bd ascenders.
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timd
Jan 30, 2008, 10:53 AM
Post #798 of 1722
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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majid_sabet wrote: Need any of these? [URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4797/pict0003kh0.jpg[/IMG]
The Smithsonian is always looking for artifacts from the ancient civilizations
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the_climber
Jan 30, 2008, 1:52 PM
Post #799 of 1722
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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climbingaggie03 wrote: wow, I thought I was the only person on earth that still uses yellow jumars. I actually had a guy stop me and take a picture of mine in the valley this fall, he'd never seen one before. He had the new bd ascenders.
I have a partner who still has a couple sets of the old yellow jumars. A couple of them even predate the biner hole on the bottom... you know the original ones you had to sling yourself, eh.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 31, 2008, 3:05 AM
Post #800 of 1722
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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Whoo!
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