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sligoblues
Sep 12, 2002, 7:11 PM
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I'm heading to Smith on Thursday for the first time since I started leading. I'm there for a day, but am looking to do some of the more classic single pitch routes. Love to hear your recommendations. Probably up to .10c.
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thrillseeker05
Sep 12, 2002, 7:31 PM
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where have you led? have you led any on real rock or all in the gym?
buy the book when you get there and head over to morning glory wall. a ton of leads in that area are in your reach. if you get the book and want to hike. find spideman, mines of moria, and others.
[ This Message was edited by: thrillseeker05 on 2002-09-12 12:32 ]
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sligoblues
Sep 12, 2002, 7:41 PM
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I've led both indoors and outdoors. No worries there. I have the book and expect to stay on the front side. I figured mid-week, might be a good chance to get on some of the climbs that are usually really busy. On weekends in the past we've just skipped morning glory and the dihedrals and headed out back.
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sistersboulderingarea
Sep 12, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Spiderman is a great trad route.
there is a good .10 on the peanut
also look for anything that has four stars in the guide book
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bluesky
Sep 12, 2002, 11:07 PM
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My Favorites at those grades:
Frontside:
Barebeque the Pope 10b and a little heady
Jete and Dancer (both 5.8ish)
Moonshine Dihedral (5.9 trad)
Revelations 5.10a
Wedding Day 10b
zebra-zion (5.10a trad)
5 Gallon Buckets (5.
Backside:
Screaming Yellow Zonkers 10b
Spiderman (5.7 Trad)
Cosmos 10a
HAVE FUN
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rocknalaska
Sep 16, 2002, 4:57 PM
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Check out some of the stuff in the gorge. There are lots of good 10's on good basalt. Pure palm may be a little hard (11a?), but an ultra-classic.
Todd
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ponyryan
Sep 16, 2002, 5:01 PM
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Try these ones:
The .10 on the Peanut (whatever it's called, can't remember)
Helium Woman
5 Gallon Buckets
Light On The Trail
Gumby
I'm headed there in about 2 minutes if my partner ever shows up ... can't wait. Look for a blue ford explorer sport with AcmeClimbing.com sticker
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sligoblues
Sep 20, 2002, 4:25 PM
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Thanks for the input. I was able to get on a couple of these before my partner took a whipper and turned her ankle. (rope behind the leg thing, which would lead me to another discussion)
Hey Bluesky, you have Revelations listed at .10a in your post. The guide shows .9 I think. Anything break off that used to be there? It was a very fun route regardless and I'm sure I'll visit it again, thanks for the suggestion.
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bluesky
Sep 20, 2002, 7:20 PM
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Hope your partner's ankle is healing well. I was going off memory on the grades as 6 years ago I used to live in Seatle and visit there all the time. I would love to be back there now
Jesse
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dawgcatching
Sep 29, 2002, 8:31 AM
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Double Trouble 10b
Teddy Bear's Picnic 10b (nice and exposed, great second pitch)
Dances w/Clams 10b (steep for Smith Tuff)
Phoenix Wall routes are all recommneded
Smith Basalt cracks (Cruel Sister 10a, Badfinger 10b, Quasar 10a) ratings are stiff, the climbing is sustained!
Trezlar 10a gear, approach from the 10a sport climb, not the dirty corner listed in the guidebook.
Chicken McNuggets 10a
Alot of the really popular climbs (Barbeque the Pope 10b, Bunny Face 7 ect) aren't worth your time unless you have lots of time at Smith and run out of more interesting climbs. Many of these climbs are boring 85 degree walls where every move is the same. OK for technique but gets monontonous after awhile. There are plenty of interesting aretes and steeper walls to check out at the grade.
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jetace
Sep 30, 2002, 1:24 AM
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The .10 on the peanut you're talking about is pop goes the nubbin, there are a few more on there that are fun. Next to spiderman there is a new one called squash the spiders. It is only 5.7 but an absolute blast, ain't nothing like squashing little nubs all the way up.
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brent
Oct 25, 2002, 2:11 PM
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I think Barbecue the Pope is quite possibly the most overrated route at Smith. I've heard plenty of climbers wax on about how it is their favorite and they could climb it all day. I say "go ahead" if you want to pull all day on crappy knobs on a slab. It makes me want to vomit just thinking about it. There are pleny of other great things to climb at Smith. Please don't waste your time on this hideous pile!
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