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rockvaulter


Apr 15, 2008, 12:59 AM
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Need Documentation for Safe Belay Techinques.
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So currently my friends and I are in charge of a outdoor camp's rock climbing/adventure program. The three of us must, for insurance reasons, teach the same techiniques all summer with every group of kids. Last year, the Adventure staff used a very unorthodox and very unsafe technique in which torques the body away from the climber and the take phase requires one of the hands to be released from the rope.

The three of us are climbers and will be using the techniques we have been taught. But we MUST have documentation that this technique is safe from UIAA or even manufactures. Can anyone help me?


shoo


Apr 15, 2008, 1:40 AM
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Re: [rockvaulter] Need Documentation for Safe Belay Techinques. [In reply to]
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Check with Alpine Towers International or other climbing facility company. They likely have their recommended belay techniques documented, especially if they're teaching courses.


timm


Apr 15, 2008, 2:08 AM
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Re: [rockvaulter] Need Documentation for Safe Belay Techinques. [In reply to]
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You might want to check out these sources. I know they've been around for a while but these techniques are still timely. But some of the techniques may not be applicable for your program with kids. I think your insurance company should accept any of these issues as examples of good belaying techniques. Good luck.







The bottom line is that this is NOT a recommended technique for your program:



(This post was edited by timm on Apr 15, 2008, 2:37 AM)


timm


Apr 15, 2008, 2:23 AM
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So, seriously, what techniques have you been taught ?? And, how do I, a parent of a kid that I send to you, know that you know how to implement any safe belaying technique that you've been taught (no offense intended) ?? More and more reputable outdoor programs are requiring some form of professional certification of the people in charge of and administering climbing programs.

The AMGA and PCIA (Professional Climbing Instructors Association) are two that come to mind. While I realize that these types of organization and certifications dont' guarantee safety and I'm not thumping the AMGA bandwagon, they do teach you that there are more skills in running a rock climbing program than just safe belaying.

It's sad your camp and their insurance company don't know enough about rock climbing to realize this.


majid_sabet


Apr 15, 2008, 2:44 AM
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contact Curt's publication, He has some good documentations on belaying methods.

Curt could you help this guy ?


rockvaulter


Apr 15, 2008, 3:46 AM
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timm wrote:
So, seriously, what techniques have you been taught ?? And, how do I, a parent of a kid that I send to you, know that you know how to implement any safe belaying technique that you've been taught (no offense intended) ?? More and more reputable outdoor programs are requiring some form of professional certification of the people in charge of and administering climbing programs.

The AMGA and PCIA (Professional Climbing Instructors Association) are two that come to mind. While I realize that these types of organization and certifications dont' guarantee safety and I'm not thumping the AMGA bandwagon, they do teach you that there are more skills in running a rock climbing program than just safe belaying.

It's sad your camp and their insurance company don't know enough about rock climbing to realize this.

We are ACA certified...but that means sh*t for climbing and adventure things. I do not know what the belay technique we used was called but I will describe it below minus the anchor systems because I agree with them. It is assumed that all checks, backups, areas are safe.

The right handed belayer pulls down with his left hand while pulling up with his right to take slack. Once enough slack is taken he swings his right hand behind him (while twisting his boby to the right). The belayer than takes his left hand (which was on the climbing end) and grabs the brake line half way up from his right hand and the ATC. While the left hand is holding the brake like the right hand is taken off the brake line and placed close to the ATC on the brake line side. Once the right hand is back in place, the left hand is released and placed back on the climbing side line.

If it sounds stupid or confusing, believe me, it is.

As for staff accredidation, none of us are cerftified, mainly because climbing is not focus of camp. It is more like a boy scout camp. I do believe we should be certified, but the cost of said training would be a very huge burden on the Presbytery.

Certified or not, my staff will always look to keep your childrens safety in mine while opening up adventures. I do not believe that being certified makes you a better belayer, but it certainly helps for insurance reasons. As long as my staff follows a safe method and are always attentive to every child, they are doing there jobs. As for climbing experiance, the 3 adventure staff including myself have other 25 years of experiance. Yes, I know this does not sound like alot, we are young, but we have always loved climbing to learn. Our one staff memeber it part of the ETCC, and has been taught very well. We may not be certfied, but we are always attentive in a fun but safe manner.


skelterjohn


Apr 15, 2008, 3:54 PM
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Re: [rockvaulter] Need Documentation for Safe Belay Techinques. [In reply to]
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No one worth anything will teach a belay technique where the brake hand is removed from the rope at any time.

Envision this scenario using the technique you outlined:

The belayer is in the switch-hands phase, and is turned sharply to right with his left hand across his body on the rope, the right hand in transition holding nothing.

The climber falls, turning the belayer to face the wall. The sudden turn causes the belayed to not let go of the rope with his left hand, but to allow his left hand to be pulled in close to the ATC, pinching and cutting the skin as it gets pulled in between the metal and the rope.

In pain, the belayer attempts to quickly juggle hands, letting go with his left while grabbing with his right. With no brake on the rope for a fraction of a second, it speeds up, too fast for the belayer to regain control of, resulting in a ground fall.

I'm surprised this hasn't happened already. Has it?


majid_sabet


Apr 15, 2008, 4:46 PM
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rockvaulter wrote:
timm wrote:
So, seriously, what techniques have you been taught ?? And, how do I, a parent of a kid that I send to you, know that you know how to implement any safe belaying technique that you've been taught (no offense intended) ?? More and more reputable outdoor programs are requiring some form of professional certification of the people in charge of and administering climbing programs.

The AMGA and PCIA (Professional Climbing Instructors Association) are two that come to mind. While I realize that these types of organization and certifications dont' guarantee safety and I'm not thumping the AMGA bandwagon, they do teach you that there are more skills in running a rock climbing program than just safe belaying.

It's sad your camp and their insurance company don't know enough about rock climbing to realize this.

We are ACA certified...but that means sh*t for climbing and adventure things. I do not know what the belay technique we used was called but I will describe it below minus the anchor systems because I agree with them. It is assumed that all checks, backups, areas are safe.

The right handed belayer pulls down ( what) with his left hand while pulling( what ?) up with his right to take slack. Once enough slack is taken he swings his right hand behind him (while twisting his boby to the right). The belayer than takes his left hand (which was on the climbing end) and grabs the brake line half way up from his right hand and the ATC. While the left hand is holding the brake like the right hand is taken off the brake line and placed close to the ATC on the brake line side. Once the right hand is back in place, the left hand is released and placed back on the climbing side line.

If it sounds stupid or confusing, believe me, it is.

As for staff accredidation, none of us are cerftified, mainly because climbing is not focus of camp. It is more like a boy scout camp. I do believe we should be certified, but the cost of said training would be a very huge burden on the Presbytery.

Certified or not, my staff will always look to keep your childrens safety in mine while opening up adventures. I do not believe that being certified makes you a better belayer, but it certainly helps for insurance reasons. As long as my staff follows a safe method and are always attentive to every child, they are doing there jobs. As for climbing experiance, the 3 adventure staff including myself have other 25 years of experiance. Yes, I know this does not sound like alot, we are young, but we have always loved climbing to learn. Our one staff memeber it part of the ETCC, and has been taught very well. We may not be certfied, but we are always attentive in a fun but safe manner.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 15, 2008, 11:08 PM)


shockabuku


Apr 15, 2008, 5:07 PM
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rockvaulter wrote:
timm wrote:
So, seriously, what techniques have you been taught ?? And, how do I, a parent of a kid that I send to you, know that you know how to implement any safe belaying technique that you've been taught (no offense intended) ?? More and more reputable outdoor programs are requiring some form of professional certification of the people in charge of and administering climbing programs.

The AMGA and PCIA (Professional Climbing Instructors Association) are two that come to mind. While I realize that these types of organization and certifications dont' guarantee safety and I'm not thumping the AMGA bandwagon, they do teach you that there are more skills in running a rock climbing program than just safe belaying.

It's sad your camp and their insurance company don't know enough about rock climbing to realize this.

We are ACA certified...but that means sh*t for climbing and adventure things. I do not know what the belay technique we used was called but I will describe it below minus the anchor systems because I agree with them. It is assumed that all checks, backups, areas are safe.

The right handed belayer pulls down with his left hand while pulling up with his right to take slack. Once enough slack is taken he swings his right hand behind him (while twisting his boby to the right). The belayer than takes his left hand (which was on the climbing end) and grabs the brake line half way up from his right hand and the ATC. While the left hand is holding the brake like the right hand is taken off the brake line and placed close to the ATC on the brake line side. Once the right hand is back in place, the left hand is released and placed back on the climbing side line.

If it sounds stupid or confusing, believe me, it is.

As for staff accredidation, none of us are cerftified, mainly because climbing is not focus of camp. It is more like a boy scout camp. I do believe we should be certified, but the cost of said training would be a very huge burden on the Presbytery.

Certified or not, my staff will always look to keep your childrens safety in mine while opening up adventures. I do not believe that being certified makes you a better belayer, but it certainly helps for insurance reasons. As long as my staff follows a safe method and are always attentive to every child, they are doing there jobs. As for climbing experiance, the 3 adventure staff including myself have other 25 years of experiance. Yes, I know this does not sound like alot, we are young, but we have always loved climbing to learn. Our one staff memeber it part of the ETCC, and has been taught very well. We may not be certfied, but we are always attentive in a fun but safe manner.

Other than the stupidity of turning the body this belay technique is fine and quite safe. Some argue that since it keeps the rope locked off more than the "pinch and slap" technique, that the one you describe here is a better technique. It was described, minus the body turn, in either R&I or Climbing within the last year or so.


stymingersfink


Apr 15, 2008, 6:24 PM
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shockabuku wrote:

Other than the stupidity of turning the body this belay technique is fine and quite safe. Some argue that since it keeps the rope locked off more than the "pinch and slap" technique, that the one you describe here is a better technique. It was described, minus the body turn, in either R&I or Climbing within the last year or so.
...and aside from the body-turn as mentioned above, is the only method I use/teach. The brake side is always in control of one hand, the other, or both. It facilitates the use of either hand, accomodating one's dominant hand regardless of which it is.

I like to call it the Brake Hand Shuffle technique. Documentation? Got none. Endorsements? Every leader I've ever arrested a fall for (100%). Tongue


dagibbs


Apr 15, 2008, 6:53 PM
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rockvaulter wrote:
The right handed belayer pulls down with his left hand while pulling up with his right to take slack. Once enough slack is taken he swings his right hand behind him (while twisting his boby to the right). The belayer than takes his left hand (which was on the climbing end) and grabs the brake line half way up from his right hand and the ATC. While the left hand is holding the brake like the right hand is taken off the brake line and placed close to the ATC on the brake line side. Once the right hand is back in place, the left hand is released and placed back on the climbing side line.

This sounds fairly similar to how I belay, and how several others do. I haven't seen the body twist, and I generally place my left hand on the brake rope below my right hand, slide my right hand up to near the top of the brake rope, then move my left hand back to the line leading up to the climber.

I like the method of always having the belay in brake position while moving hands around.

I've seen techniques taught at gyms, where the brake line is brought up parallel to the climber's line, the left hand pinches, the right hand slides down towards the ATC, then pulls back down into brake position. I don't like this, because while the right hand is moving down the rope, there is no brake, and if the climber fell...oops. In fact, one gym made me demonstrate I could belay this way as their "belay check". So, I did, then didn't use it the rest of the evening.

In fact, my home gym belays this way basically as their standard method -- but they only use installed on the ropes Gri-gris.


maldaly


Apr 15, 2008, 10:01 PM
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Contact the Bill at the Climbing Wall Association and ask for a copy of their best practices manual. It will have a section on belaying. It may not give you specific advice about how to belay but it should tell you how to make the decisions necessary to keep you out of trouble. It will also help you with documentation and training practices.

bill@climbingwallindustry.org

Mal


deltav


Apr 16, 2008, 12:26 AM
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The AMGA technical manual is a good resource...


rockvaulter


Apr 16, 2008, 1:21 AM
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I think the belay method is fine if the climbing system is actaully attached to the belayer, which it is not. Though i agree that it can be safer, I believe the "pinch and slap" tech. is safer when it comes to our climbing as all we do is top roping. I just think with the many steps it confusing many non-climbers. Though the body torque isn't needed, ones body tends to turn with the swing arm. Also, I firmly believe that having two hands on the rope at all times is best. But I am biased so take what I say with a grain of salt.

Btw, no, no climber has ever fallen. We have a small artificial wall for the 7 to 8 year olds which is 20 feet high. For the 9-17 year old we have a 100 foot rock climb, which is most likely a 5.3 as you really dont need hands. For the 13-17 year olds we have another 100 foot which has many climbs, from a 5.6 to a killer offwidth crack that is most likely a 5.9 and yet another one that is most likely a 10+ but that one is for staff only.


acorneau


Apr 16, 2008, 5:52 PM
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stymingersfink wrote:
I like to call it the Brake Hand Shuffle technique. Documentation? Got none. Endorsements? Every leader I've ever arrested a fall for (100%). Tongue

I've mostly heard it called the B-U-S method (for Break Under, Slide) and it was one of the styles covered in AMGA courses. I think it's a very good technique to use for beginners when using an ATC-style belay device.

A similar method taught in many gyms (using Grigri's) is the P-S-S (pull, slide, slide) method. Both hands are on the break side, dominant hand closest to the device. Pull the rope through the device, slide your break hand close to the device, slide the non-break hand to match. By keeping both hands on the break side you keep the belayers from criss-crossing hands/ropes and ending up with their hands on the non-break side of the rope. Again, this method is for beginners.

(edited for grammar)


(This post was edited by acorneau on Apr 16, 2008, 7:48 PM)


shockabuku


Apr 16, 2008, 6:14 PM
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rockvaulter wrote:
I just think with the many steps it confusing many non-climbers. Though the body torque isn't needed, ones body tends to turn with the swing arm. Also, I firmly believe that having two hands on the rope at all times is best. But I am biased so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I think, having seen both taught numerous times, that to non-climbers either system is equally confusing.

Also, having two hands on the rope all the time is pointless if one of those hands is above the belay device, it does absolutely no good in arresting a real fall.


stymingersfink


Apr 16, 2008, 7:31 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
rockvaulter wrote:
I just think with the many steps it confusing many non-climbers. Though the body torque isn't needed, ones body tends to turn with the swing arm. Also, I firmly believe that having two hands on the rope at all times is best. But I am biased so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I think, having seen both taught numerous times, that to non-climbers either system is equally confusing.

Also, having two hands on the rope all the time is pointless if one of those hands is above the belay device, it does absolutely no good in arresting a real fall.
agreed on that point.

for me, my less-dominant hand shuffles from pulling the rope into the belay device from above the device, to securing the brake side of the rope while re-positioning my dominant hand near (and under) the device. Always a hand on the brake side, but not necessarily always a hand above the device.

the concern you stated above is the main reason I'm not so into the "pinch rope while brake hands slides down" variety of belaying techniques. Inevitably, a noob pinches the rope UNDER their brake hand, necessitating the removal and re-positioning of their brake hand, during which time the brake side of the rope is secured in a position of the least amount of braking force with only a finger and thumb pinching the rope. Scary.


viciado


Apr 19, 2008, 1:12 PM
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It doesn't seem to matter to novice climbers which device you use. There will invariably be someone who does not "get" the idea of the friction device and will grab the climber's side of the rope rather than the brake side. This is why it is usually recommended that instructors use a fireman's belay to provide back-up. BUT I think your question was not how to teach, but rather how to defend your position. The documents mentioned above are good sources if you have access, but you may find that you can get the same information online... that should give you enough credibility to defend any position you choose. Google it, dude.


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