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rockvaulter
Apr 19, 2008, 3:03 AM
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So me and my partner are going to Moab and Devils Tower in 3 week . This will be our first time climbing out west. I am looking at my gear and wondering what I should add to my rack so we can survive. This is what i have thus far, but I work at EMS so i can buy what i need quick and easy, i just dont want to buy something I dont need right now.
2.5 Set of stoppers (2:4-13 3:6-11)
2 BD Cams (.5 and .75)
20 6" inch Draws
20 Biners
6 Locking biners
4 Slings
2 Nut tools
1 ATC sports
1 8
50 feet of Static
What else should i buy?
I am buying cams, but which ones and how many?
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timm
Apr 19, 2008, 3:08 AM
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Lose the ATC Sport and buy some more cams. The size and amout are dependent upon what you plan on climbing.
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rockvaulter
Apr 19, 2008, 3:23 AM
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Now why in the world would i want to lose my ATC sport! I think i will keep it but use something better . As for cams, u gotta tell me what ones to buy, haha. But thanks for the input.
Btw, we are climbing Durrance, but i heard it can be a bitch and half to even climb it with all the guided ascents. We want to do around a 5.8 or 5.9.
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krosbakken
Apr 19, 2008, 3:27 AM
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wait a second, you actually bought an atc sport the one made by BD, Why?
If that is what your talking about, then definitely get rid of it and get a better atc that can handle two ropes.
I would buy some more cams but it depends on what sizes. I would go with a pretty standard sizes of cams something like .5 to 3 or 4 BD you also might want to think about some trad draws and few more slings just so you can extend your pro, because those 6 in. draws won't do it for you.
So your pretty set all you need is 3 or 4 more cams and some draws, but of course this is a very basic rack and you may need some small cams or some bigger ones it all depends.
Thats my two cents.
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rockvaulter
Apr 19, 2008, 3:41 AM
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krosbakken wrote: wait a second, you actually bought an atc sport the one made by BD, Why? If that is what your talking about, then definitely get rid of it and get a better atc that can handle two ropes.
Ha ha, no no silly. I got my ATC sport and regular ATC for free. Why in the world would i spend money for those? But what belay device would u recommend (please do not say gri-gri.)
Slings...check... ill go "buy" ten tomorrow.
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timm
Apr 19, 2008, 3:48 AM
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rockvaulter wrote: As for cams, u gotta tell me what ones to buy, haha. But thanks for the input. Btw, we are climbing Durrance, but i heard it can be a bitch and half to even climb it with all the guided ascents. We want to do around a 5.8 or 5.9.
Have you consulted a guidebook or even the route database here on rc.com ?? The description on this site for Durrance recommends cams up to #4 camalot. I'm just guessing here but I don't think your .5 and .75 are going to cut it. So, you might want to start with at least a full set of camalots up to #4 ... and a guidebook.
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moose_droppings
Apr 19, 2008, 4:06 AM
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A standard rack for DT, maybe double up on a couple BD #4's. A lot of it will take smaller pro. Hope your good at jamming or it will be a grunt fest for you. Its a busy route, if ya can't get on it, maybe you can get up Tad.
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2008, 4:11 AM
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Well, you might consider a different time of year to go to Moab, but hey, whatever floats your boat. If you have not done a lot of crack climbing (and that seems to be the implication based on your "rack"), you'll want to stick with easier routes. Durrance may hand your ass to you on a silver platter, with garnish.
Pick up guidebooks for the areas (Fred Knapp's Desert Classics book is really good, and Orenzak's Tower book is the new standard). Once you've got those, start asking about specific routes.
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climbingaggie03
Apr 19, 2008, 5:37 AM
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What's wrong with moab right now? too hot?
to the op as far as cams, I'd buy
Blue, yellow, orange, and Red TCU's (1 each)
Red, gold, blue Camalots (2 each)
Silver (#4) and purple (#5) Camalots (1 each)
You also might look into a red and gold link cam
I'd get the BD atc guide or petzl reverso and ditch the ATC sport/ATC/8
Have a total of 10 single length Slings, and 2-3 double length slings.
I wouldn't take more than 10 draws.
Ditch the static rope.
What kind of biners do you have 20 of? I'd either make trad draws, or rack slings over the shoulder with one biner on them and a bunch of biners on my harness.
Durrance route can be burly, I took a 30 foot whipper on the crux (I think) pitch. The Dihedral with the offwidth near the top.
So now you know what you need, do you know how to use it? it always makes me nervous when I see people show up to a crag with a whole bunch of new shiny gear, it makes me think I might have to be doing first aid (at worst) or I might get new booty (at best). I don't want to discourage you from coming out and climbing, but be careful.
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rockvaulter
Apr 19, 2008, 10:53 AM
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I will most likely get the ATC guide just so i can get some more stopping power for the multi.
Right now I have 10 BD Hotwires, 3 BD Oval Wires, and 7 BD Positrons (and no, im not a BD whore, i just happen to really like the Hotwires and the Ovals came with things i bought.)
What I would really like to do is have more passive pro, but I am not sure if I can get away with 2.5 stopper sets, 2 BD #4 Cams and 2+ Camp #5 Tricams.
And yes, I do now how to use them all. Though seeing I will be at Moab first, im going to try to perfect my Tricam placement so its second nature when using it as an active piece. Thanks for the concern though.
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j_ung
Apr 19, 2008, 12:04 PM
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You people wouldn't recognize a troll if he fell out of the sky, landed in your laps and danced the macarena, all while wearing a t-shirt that says, "I am a troll."
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8flood8
Apr 19, 2008, 3:14 PM
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seriously...
50' of static rope?
nice troll bud. you sucked em in
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2008, 3:18 PM
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By the beginning of may, you're gonna be hunting for shade.
And tri-cams are pretty much useless in a parallel sided crack. You want proper camming units.
I was you once. A long time ago. I had one of the worst Moab trips ever on account of it. If you lack the gear to climb the routes there, it will be miserable for you.
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ja1484
Apr 19, 2008, 3:27 PM
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j_ung wrote: You people wouldn't recognize a troll if he fell out of the sky, landed in your laps and danced the macarena, all while wearing a t-shirt that says, "I am a troll."
Beat me to it.
ATC-Sport? 50 feet of static cord? Heading to a stout trad mecca with 2 cams and 20 6" QDs?
Jesus, folks. Pull your heads out.
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rockvaulter
Apr 20, 2008, 1:16 AM
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ja1484 wrote: j_ung wrote: You people wouldn't recognize a troll if he fell out of the sky, landed in your laps and danced the macarena, all while wearing a t-shirt that says, "I am a troll." Beat me to it. ATC-Sport? 50 feet of static cord? Heading to a stout trad mecca with 2 cams and 20 6" QDs? Jesus, folks. Pull your heads out.
I am not climbing on the Static rope jeeze! And no i am not trolling. I used to use my partners trad rack but he moved very far away so I am starting from scratch. As for the massive amount of draws its because I learned sport climbing first...hence draws. And yeah...i have 2 cams but I have a good bunch of nuts because it should be the backbone of a rack. Yeah, two cams, and i have money to buy more, but thats why i am asking for advice. But thanks...yeah...im def trolling [rolls] sorry for asking some serious advice so i don't buy things i don't need.
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andersjr
Apr 20, 2008, 4:11 AM
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you will be fine with passive pro. in fact, a majority of the routes there were put up with passive pro. even furthermore, active camming units are a relatively new technology. they make climbing easier, but they definately aren't neccessities at the tower. if you want to keep it cheap, get some hexes. the tower will take stoppers in almost everything. if you do want some cams, get some more ones or smaller. The hands and fist cracks are great, but unfortunately don't take much passive pro. for routes with your rack, i would check out any of the thin hands/fingers stuff on the west side and soler should definately be on your to-do list. good luck and have fun.
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maldaly
Apr 20, 2008, 3:13 PM
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andersjr's advice is okay for DT but will kill you in Moab (assuming you're talking Indian Creek.)
If the Durrance route has a line, try the Tad, El Cracko and Soler troika. All three are stellar routes, follow direct lines and will get you to the top. Additionally, the climbing is better.
If you are climbing at the Creek and, assuming it is your first time there, buy multiple cams per size. Forget the big stuff and the little stuff. The routes that suck those sizes up are harder than you'll be comfortable on. (I just made an assumption there and apologize if I offended you.) If you are buying Camalots buy 3-4 each of Red, Yellow and Blue.
For DT, I'd add a set of RPs or Metolius Astro nuts. I'd leave the tiniest ones for aid routes.
Climb safe,
mal
Edited to add: You'll want a nut tool for Devils Tower.
(This post was edited by maldaly on Apr 20, 2008, 3:17 PM)
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rockvaulter
Apr 23, 2008, 12:40 AM
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So this is what I have now:
3.5 sets off nuts
1 .5 BD Cam
1 .75 BD Cam
2 4 BD Cams
2 #3 Camp Tricams
2 #4 Camp Tricams
25 BD biners (75% hotwires)
7 16x60 Slings
5 16x120 Slings
1 ATC Guide, XP
50 feet of static
2 60 M ropes (both Mammut)
2 Metolious Free Nuts (well technically 4)
I got my T&E pay check today so I decided to give it back to the company...while of course getting a deep discount!
(edited: I always bring my nut tool!)
(This post was edited by rockvaulter on Apr 23, 2008, 1:01 AM)
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therat
Apr 23, 2008, 12:54 AM
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maldaly wrote: andersjr's advice is okay for DT but will kill you in Moab (assuming you're talking Indian Creek.) If the Durrance route has a line, try the Tad, El Cracko and Soler troika. All three are stellar routes, follow direct lines and will get you to the top. Additionally, the climbing is better. If you are climbing at the Creek and, assuming it is your first time there, buy multiple cams per size. Forget the big stuff and the little stuff. The routes that suck those sizes up are harder than you'll be comfortable on. (I just made an assumption there and apologize if I offended you.) If you are buying Camalots buy 3-4 each of Red, Yellow and Blue. For DT, I'd add a set of RPs or Metolius Astro nuts. I'd leave the tiniest ones for aid routes. Climb safe, mal Edited to add: You'll want a nut tool for Devils Tower.
Tad sucks. El Cracko is quite nice... Soler ROCKS... and if you feel up to it, Walt Bailey is CLASSIC!
LOTS of medium stoppers.
And a nut tool is TRULY a gem...
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maldaly
Apr 23, 2008, 2:03 AM
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Get rid of those #3 and 4 tricams and get yourself doubles in .25 - 1.5 tricams.
Mal
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rockvaulter
Apr 23, 2008, 3:44 AM
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maldaly wrote: Get rid of those #3 and 4 tricams and get yourself doubles in .25 - 1.5 tricams. Mal
How about .5's and 1.5's?
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maldaly
Apr 23, 2008, 3:59 AM
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.25 - 2 = .25, .5, 1, 1.5 and 2
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jt512
Apr 23, 2008, 5:17 AM
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rockvaulter wrote: So this is what I have now: 3.5 sets off nuts 1 .5 BD Cam 1 .75 BD Cam 2 4 BD Cams 2 #3 Camp Tricams 2 #4 Camp Tricams 25 BD biners (75% hotwires) 7 16x60 Slings 5 16x120 Slings 1 ATC Guide, XP 50 feet of static 2 60 M ropes (both Mammut) 2 Metolious Free Nuts (well technically 4 ) I got my T&E pay check today so I decided to give it back to the company...while of course getting a deep discount! (edited: I always bring my nut tool!)
Are you a complete idiot? You ignored all the advice about getting multiple sets of cams, and bought yet another set of nuts? Who caries 3.5 sets of nuts up a free climb?
This isn't 1970. A standard rack includes two sets of cams. An Indan Creek rack, multiples in the size cracks you plan to climb.
Jay
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rockvaulter
Apr 23, 2008, 12:43 PM
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jt512 wrote: Are you a complete idiot? You ignored all the advice about getting multiple sets of cams, and bought yet another set of nuts? Who caries 3.5 sets of nuts up a free climb? This isn't 1970. A standard rack includes two sets of cams. An Indan Creek rack, multiples in the size cracks you plan to climb. Jay
No Jay, im not a complete idiot, and no, I did not ignore all advice. Read below...
andersjr wrote: you will be fine with passive pro. in fact, a majority of the routes there were put up with passive pro. even furthermore, active camming units are a relatively new technology. they make climbing easier, but they definately aren't neccessities at the tower. if you want to keep it cheap, get some hexes. the tower will take stoppers in almost everything. if you do want some cams, get some more ones or smaller. The hands and fist cracks are great, but unfortunately don't take much passive pro. for routes with your rack, i would check out any of the thin hands/fingers stuff on the west side and soler should definately be on your to-do list. good luck and have fun.
Secondly, if i had 400 dollars to spend on cams, dont you think i would? Yes, this isn't the 1970's, but passive still works. Also, my partner is getting things too...this is what I have...not WE. And, there is no reason to rant and rave about having TOO much gear until I am actaully on the rock face. I would much rather have the option of leaving gear than wondering how in the hell am I suppose to protect section. I do not call it overkill when people have triple and quadruples of every size Cam. They are smart. It is much easier to subtract gear than add gear once you get to the route.
Also, please dont take this the wrong way. Thank you so much for the advice. I am not ignoring it, I myself just happen not to be buying it...my parter will
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fuck im an idiot! Damn puncuation! 
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