doesn't a fall from near the top (unless its a terribly short climb) NEGATE the possibility of a high fall factor?

fall factor is, essentially, (fall distance)/(amount of rope out)

so unless you are soloing the WHOLE pitch and fall the whole way down to the anchor you won't get a factor two. even on a terribly protected aid climb it seems like you should only be closer to a factor 1....

this is mainly from an intuitive understanding and assuming you aren't climbing an A6+++++++ (oh yes, it does exist....) route....

don't blow you're money on a solo aid buy a silent partner, its more $$$ however it works like a lucky charm. As far as your fall factor a fifty footer should equate to a fall factor of 1.2578 not 2.0 but that is my math.
Anthony

Dual pearabiners with clove hitches are a pretty slick way of aid soloing.

Tolman- i've taken several 30 footers while soloing, but always on a clove. Blind placements, rotten rock, it happens.

Hooking on a 20m pitch off the belay with no pro causes a fall factor two. If you can provide evidence otherwise please do. Furthermore I asked people to respond if they have used the device and taken such a fall. The other two people at least suggested that I try a different forum.

The Wren Solo Aid has nothing to do with aid climbing. It's the brand name. Just like "Gator Aid" doesn't help 'gators.

The researchers then took their findings into the lab, and scientifically formulated a new, precisely balanced carbohydrate-electrolyte beverage that would adequately replace the key components lost by [University of Florida] Gator players through sweating and exercise. They called their concoction ‘Gatorade’.

Here's what I'd probably do on this pitch.

I'd attach three screamers in parallel to two screamers in parallel to one screamer. To the end of the pyramid, I'd tie the rope...

So no belay device, no belay. You're trailing a rope up this sucker knowing full well you're going to factor 2 the shit out of your anchor. I would be a lot less concerned about the distance of the fall and more about minimizing the factor 2 impact so you don't break your rope/body.

Here's a majid picture. And I'm serious. There is no reason to belay yourself if you can't get in gear. This should reduce your chance of having your guts fly out your ass or break your rope or anchor in a fall and you can concentrate fully on the climbing, no need to futz with the belay device.

It would be proud.

And don't fall!!!

The device works fine for catching long and hard falls, Austin.

Don't be bothered if you see the rope not aligning perfectly with the cam--it will still lock up fine in this position IME. It's not a great device for free climbing but works well for aid.

Here's what I'd probably do on this pitch.

I'd attach three screamers in parallel to two screamers in parallel to one screamer. To the end of the pyramid, I'd tie the rope. Tie in to the other end, 20m away (I'm going off your 20m pitch estimation). I'd have an extra rope at slack "backing up" the whole contraption.

So no belay device, no belay. You're trailing a rope up this sucker knowing full well you're going to factor 2 the shit out of your anchor. I would be a lot less concerned about the distance of the fall and more about minimizing the factor 2 impact so you don't break your rope/body.

Here's a majid picture. And I'm serious. There is no reason to belay yourself if you can't get in gear. This should reduce your chance of having your guts fly out your ass or break your rope or anchor in a fall and you can concentrate fully on the climbing, no need to futz with the belay device.



And don't fall!!!

Angry is no fool, so I am puzzled... at what point do you clip to anything? Is this a gear lead? The only way this picture could turn into a factor 2 fall is if you start 20' off the deck and climb 20' up, meaning 40' off the deck. Then you will have 20' of rope out while falling 40' - 40/20 = factor 2.

This fall would place you on the deck at a velocity of 36 mph, by my estimation. Why bother with a rope?

It's multipitch and I'm assuming it's not the first pitch. He's got lots of air below him.

There is no pro on this pitch.

A fall would be a factor 2.

You have another option on this route, and I don't think anybody has said so.

Don't do it.

Pick another route.

Or you can take the extreme option, which is to go home, and come back when you figure out how to do this safely.

I think the core or this thread (long fall on solo aid) is not so much how the gear works, but on whether you gotta do it. You've heard that word "gotta" before? It means you ignore the options and commit yourself to "stupid".

In John Long's "Anchor" book, he describes how to use the "Jesus Nut". And why. And what happens when you don't.

Also in this thread, Angry writes "And don't fall!!! " Well that always grabs me. So why the hell is Austin using a rope and harness?