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theguy
May 19, 2008, 9:15 AM
Post #51 of 57
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
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Perfecto wrote: I was belaying her tight because she wanted me to, I would have been comfortable with a looser belay... I still am having a hard time understanding how any of this was dangerous.
As others have explained, there are reasons this was dangerous, and that you should have been uncomfortable with a tight belay.
If you had that knowledge, you'd then be in the position of making a decision between your leader's safety and their perception of what was safe; I have been in this situation and given priority to the climber's judgement (after some discussion), since it's primarily their risk. I have had a climber fall directly on my head as a result: yet another reason to wear a helmet :)
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bigo
May 19, 2008, 4:53 PM
Post #52 of 57
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Registered: Mar 11, 2002
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...m/gforum.cgi?t=37947
Next time you are at Smith or maybe even an French's stop and watch some of the 'good' climbers lob off of their projects. Most aren't necessarily taking the smallest fall possible - for a reason.
When I finally learned how to give a good belay and require that I get one, it was by far the biggest factor in allowing me to climb more confidently and harder.
(This post was edited by bigo on May 19, 2008, 4:54 PM)
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uni_jim
May 19, 2008, 5:48 PM
Post #53 of 57
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
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no problem, i would just like to keep on topic.
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quiteatingmysteak
May 19, 2008, 6:44 PM
Post #54 of 57
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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fyj434 wrote: jt512 When you start climbing seven days a week and can onsight harder than 11a then you can talk to me about belaying but until then. take from someone who knows how to climb...SHUT THE HELL UP!  www.8anu.com
So much spray, aaugh my eyes!!!
You're right though, this site isn't for you, stick to 8a. There is no ranking and no puffery, the average member is around 30 years old not 17, and no one cares how hard you climb, only if you have anything to say.
You have nothing to say. Have fun at The Spot where you can bitch about how all problems are "reachy" and you need "girl beta" and real climbing is defined as paint by numbers.
Nevermind, it says here you are from the Southwest. No wonder you got a chip on your shoulder.
See, the internet is fun!
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stymingersfink
May 19, 2008, 10:49 PM
Post #55 of 57
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: fyj434 wrote: jt512 When you start climbing seven days a week and can onsight harder than 11a then you can talk to me about belaying but until then. take from someone who knows how to climb...SHUT THE HELL UP! www.8anus.comSo much spray, aaugh my eyes!!! You're right though, this site isn't for you, stick to 8a. There is no ranking and no puffery, the average member is around 30 years old not 17, and no one cares how hard you climb, only if you have anything to say. You have nothing to say. Have fun at The Spot where you can bitch about how all problems are "reachy" and you need "girl beta" and real climbing is defined as paint by numbers. Nevermind, it says here you are from the Southwest. No wonder you got a chip on your shoulder. See, the internet is fun!
don't mention it 
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knieveltech
May 19, 2008, 11:30 PM
Post #56 of 57
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
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fyj434 wrote: well if you pay any attion. I am only on this pice of shit cause I am bored. Look at the 8a web sit i posted and you will see that i got the score card to back it up dush. And belaying and climbing share alot of the same things... But I dont give a shit what you have to say cause I stand by what I say... and trust me I am the one climbing the 13 and you are the 12 my poor sorry ass friend.
It never ceases to amaze me when folks get bunched up on the net over the dumbest shit and then instantly transform into the biggest dumbass spraylords you've ever seen. Like spraying on the internet has won arguments in the past or something.
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Perfecto
May 20, 2008, 1:00 AM
Post #57 of 57
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Registered: May 15, 2008
Posts: 9
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jt512 wrote: When you're that high on an overhanging route there is no risk from making the fall a little longer. All the risk comes from the force with which the climber swings into the wall. Even on a factor-.2 fall, if the belayer just locks off, the climber can swing hard into the wall. The point of the dynamic catch is that it reduces the swing into the wall; therefore, it actually lessens the risk of the fall. Jay
Somehow I missed this part of the discussion, it makes alot of sense. You don't need to lessen the upward force on the climber, but the inward pull. A short fall is worse than a long one because when the rope comes taut, the angle of the rope distributes more foce to the horizontal component(think triangles) If the climber was 2 feet from the wall and fell 4 feet below the bolt than ~50% of the total tension in the rope will be pulling the climber in to the wall. The shorter the fall, the greater the horizontal force. That same 2 feet from the wall with 8 feet of rope out would have 1/2 the force. I'm glad I finally figured that out, I can't remember hearing that before.
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