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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 12:41 PM
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check out the video;
http://www.vimeo.com/1148463
train for ice/mixed/dry tooling on any indoor wall!
Its the future, what do you think?
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j_ung
Jun 12, 2008, 12:45 PM
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I think I can't view your video without registering.
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 1:04 PM
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oops, was set up as a private video, should be good to go now!
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sidepull
Jun 12, 2008, 1:39 PM
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Pretty cool, although it helps your credibility when your first post isn't to promote your own product and your own review (Awesome new !) is a bit less info-mercially.
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 1:56 PM
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fair enough, i'm actually uk based which is why i'm new to the site, and as for the title i'm just really excited about the project! t'was enthusiasm rather than shameless self promotion!
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jp_sucks
Jun 12, 2008, 3:27 PM
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Does look like it could be a good training tool. I could stop trashing my holds with my tools. What does it sell for?
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j_ung
Jun 12, 2008, 3:29 PM
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Great idea! If I were an icey-mixey climber, I think I'd be all over that.
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 3:42 PM
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it doesn't sell... yet! but i reckon they'd retail around $150 a pair if they were. It was my honors uni project this year, but i'm keen to develop it further if there's anyone out there interested! just trying to get it out there and get a better idea of whether people are into the idea!
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sungam
Jun 12, 2008, 4:50 PM
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figfour wrote: it doesn't sell... yet! but i reckon they'd retail around $150 a pair if they were. It was my honors uni project this year, but i'm keen to develop it further if there's anyone out there interested! just trying to get it out there and get a better idea of whether people are into the idea!
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 4:58 PM
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yes indeed, good spot!
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sungam
Jun 12, 2008, 5:20 PM
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figfour wrote: yes indeed, good spot!
That was a good one. ;P
I reckon tunnel wall is a much better DT spot.
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angry
Jun 12, 2008, 5:23 PM
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It would make for a great training tool.
It would be a good way to experience the pump of mixed without damage to the holds.
However, the flexible webbing top would limit you in the type of routes you could climb. A pick can stay on the smallest little edge, or go into a pocket. These would have to be relegated to only juggy holds.
The wicked pump that they could provide should be similar enough to dry-tooling that it would still be better than nothing. Also, I think most gyms would allow these and most gyms wouldn't allow a regular ice tool.
I might head into the woodshop and see what I can come up with.
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 5:34 PM
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ha ha, you'd be surprised how well they work on small holds, is not just webbing in there... but i'm not going to give away the secret! Using sloping or small holds is a great way to work on the hand/arm stability and core strength needed to stick your pick to small edges and move around your tools, and in practice figfour feels almost exactly the same, but you are right, the most fun to be had is improving power/power endurance by cranking big moves on jugs and endurance circuity missions! grr.
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roy_hinkley_jr
Jun 12, 2008, 5:37 PM
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figfour wrote: i reckon they'd retail around $150 a pair.
For that price, a climber can get a pretty good collection of holds made for drytooling and just use their normal tools. If you can get under $100 a pair, they'd be more viable. Good luck.
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figfour
Jun 12, 2008, 5:43 PM
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true, but only if you already have a woody, and how long will your holds last? not long in my experience, but guess i'm not the most gentle of climbers!
The tools were designed to allow users to train for mixed more effectively using their local gym, which is where most people do the majority of their training, and eliminate the need for a dedicated dry tooling facilities which are pretty rare in this country and limited in size where they do exist.
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qqac
Jun 12, 2008, 6:18 PM
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My guess is that you attached a strip of sticky rubber underneath the webbing loop. If used on small holds, does this allow you to approximate the use of tools in difficult ice and mixed, where maintaining the orientation of the ice tools can be critical? The video looks like a lot of hanging and swinging about--good for a pumpy, fun romp up the wall, but not so good for practicing delicate moves. I say USD$40 each or $75 for a pair, with replaceable loops for $15.
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hafilax
Jun 12, 2008, 7:27 PM
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Don't they sell plastic picks that do less damage for use indoors?
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neuroshock
Jun 12, 2008, 8:35 PM
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I believe that Grivel used to make a training pick but I can't find any reference to it on their website anymore.
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figfour
Jun 13, 2008, 10:18 AM
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nope, no rubber, guess again!
the video was shot to engage with and communicate the use of the tools to a non climbing audience ie. my tutors at uni, hence big moves on jugs and lots of fig fours etc. The tools do allow much more technical climbing style when you use small, slopey and sketchy holds as the angle of loading has to be kept the same, and due to the flexibility of the webbing maintaining the load is actually more critical than with tools!
The price was based on calculations assuming small scale batch production, and could be lowered if I was able to license the design to a manufacturer as it would easily adapt to mass manufacturing techniques allowing scaled up production... good to learn what level people would be willing to invest at though, cheers!
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jmvc
Jun 13, 2008, 11:05 AM
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And a new race is born.. Gym mixed climbers?
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figfour
Jun 13, 2008, 12:09 PM
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welcome to the future!
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figfour
Jun 13, 2008, 1:47 PM
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indoor tooling first, then i'm gonna start work on flying car projects as soon as this is in production!
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