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beyond_gravity


Nov 3, 2002, 10:03 PM
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knot questions
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Ok, I found out that hammering a knot is a great way to get it loose...but is it good for the rope?


Also people keep saying how bowlines make your rope weak...but everyone still uses them.
Should I or shouldnt I tie in with a re-woven double bowline?


marcel


Nov 3, 2002, 10:12 PM
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The best way to avoid hammering on knots, is not to let them get too tight. To minimize the tension on a harness knot wrap the rope through your harness twice before tying in.
As for knots, I'm a fan of the figure 8. You can always tell if it's tied right just with a quick look. Figure 8 all the way for me.


billcoe_


Nov 3, 2002, 10:13 PM
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I've never heard of either of your statements.

You mean you take a hammer and smack the knot, and it unties easier? Never had to do that, or heard of it either.

I think I'd not want to do something like that and trust the rope later.


Hmmmm.....I'd definatly check witht he rope Mfg. I think they would tell you not to do that.

Bill


spork73


Nov 3, 2002, 10:26 PM
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double figure 8 or figure 8 on a bite


mountainmonkey


Nov 4, 2002, 5:18 PM
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I have used the hammer method for cordellettes but never for a rope. Cords are much cheaper to bang on and it really helps to loosen the knot.

I have never heard that the "bowline makes your rope weak". The bowline is not as strong as the figure-8 but the difference is very small.

I use the double bowline for single pitch stuff, and the 8 for multipitch - but that is solely based on how easy a bowline is to untie.


vertical_reality


Nov 4, 2002, 5:23 PM
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Take the knot between your hands, squeeze it and roll it like you were making a Playdo snake.

Works for me.


gunked


Nov 4, 2002, 10:21 PM
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vertical_reality's suggestion works in most situations. There are different methods that work well for different stuck knots. Which knot are you referring to?
Jason


ouflyboy9


Nov 4, 2002, 11:02 PM
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if you're talking about taking a hammer to your rope i would never do that!!!! if you're hands are too tired to untie your knot make your belayer do it...it works for me


tanner


Nov 4, 2002, 11:23 PM
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3 ideas that might help ya.

#1 Don't climb with a rope
#2 use a double bowline to Tie in
(Its not as strong but it is easyer to untie )

#3 Don't Fall when climbing
(It wont tighten the rope)

Note: For best results always apply Idea #3 when using Idea #1


freudian


Nov 4, 2002, 11:28 PM
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Never hit safety equipment with blunt objects.

The snake method works on Fisherman's Knots very well (with cordlettes, etc.)

Freudian


duskerhu


Nov 5, 2002, 9:59 AM
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You can also use the "Big Boy" or "Yosemite" finish on a Figure 8 instead of the all-around "back-up" knot. Then when the knot gets tightened 'cus you're hang-doggin', pull that loop out, bend the knot in half, and it comes right apart...

If you need explanations on the "Big Boy" or "Yosemite" finishes, PM me... it's just too much explainin' right now...

good luck!

duskerhu


apollodorus


Nov 5, 2002, 10:52 AM
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You don't smash the knot with the hammer. You tap on it evenly. It doesn't hurt the rope.


fishypete


Nov 5, 2002, 11:18 AM
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Bowlines make your rope weak, and Figure 8's don't???

That has gotta be a troll.

However for those out there who are newer to the sport, I will take the bait.

Looking in reference books (e.g. Knots for Climbers), and in testing data (e.g. rec.climbing) the bowline and figure 8 both weaken the rope by a very similar amount.

The exact amount depends on the rope, but the final strength once knotted is typically around 75% of the unknotted strength.

And in any case, ropes dont break, knotted or not (except for exceptionally rare instances of cutting on an edge). There are plenty of other ways to get yourself killed - see ANAM.

Cheers

Fishy.


[ This Message was edited by: fishypete on 2002-11-05 03:21 ]


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