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hauling the pig with inverted grigri??
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Partner cracklover


Aug 28, 2008, 2:19 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:
So if I use the *pulley / reversed toothed ascender* that everyone suggests, then I'm down to one ascender to jug back up the line.

Thx for the ideas in advance, this post so far has surpassed my expectations.... ;)

Jug the line with one ascender and the gri-gri. Doesn't necessarily have to be a frog-style setup, there's a couple nice ways to jug with one grigri and one ascender. Some people prefer that setup to two ascenders.

Anyway, aren't you hauling when you get back up to the anchor? And then you have both ascenders with you.

GO


RangerJ


Aug 28, 2008, 2:29 AM
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Re: [cracklover] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Anyway, aren't you hauling when you get back up to the anchor? And then you have both ascenders with you.

Yup, you're right, I am hauling when I get back to the anchor and I will have two ascenders then. But prior to that.... as soon as I get to my high anchor I have to secure the pig to that anchor. If I simply tie it off (say, with a figure 8 knot) to the anchor, I will have a difficult time once the pig has been weighted to that knot to set up any type of hauling system when I return to the high anchor. Wouldn't that entail hauling it up a few meters, lock that height off with a prusik / munter / mule concept, undo the fig 8 knot behind that setup, install a hauling system, then go from there?

Lazy? Perhaps. Bottom line is I'm sure I could shortcut a bunch of things (like hand over hand pulling, not tying things off with releasable knots, etc), but this adventure is to practice some skill sets and techniques that I've only read about (mostly from you guys, so already I feel cool for just talking to you mighty folks).

So here's to finding the system that'll work - keep the ideas coming: I'm already attempting ascending a line with the Grigri and one ascender off my back deck (and so far I think I'm going to develop one massive right shoulder by the end of this adventure


(This post was edited by RangerJ on Aug 28, 2008, 11:39 PM)


DFCLIMB


Aug 28, 2008, 3:09 AM
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hauling [In reply to]
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I have had luck with the wall haulers (pulley and cam made for hauling) and prefer to keep the GRI GRI for belaying.


skiclimb


Aug 28, 2008, 5:53 AM
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Re: [holdplease2] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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holdplease2 wrote:
Hey Skiclimb:

Could be because I only climb overhanging routes? Haven't hauled much of a slab in awhile.

Plus, are you squat-hauling or running down the wall backwards?

What aspect of the hauling did you notice to be improved? That might help to sort out the differences.

I totally love the sterling superstatic, it has just enough stretch not to kill you (maybe) if you dump your pigs, but is still pretty static. Can't lead on it tho.

Still, for the safety and versatility, I'll take a slightly less fun haul, most likely.

Love to hear your thoughts on your experience.

-Kate.

My hauling tends to go in a progression

easiest (when bags are getting lighter) One footed stomping while pulling up ... this is one of the places where I seem to recall dynamic being a pain due to a bit of stretch bounce wiping out a relatively short pull

funky stuff .. similar to above but i might be ass over feet pushing down while pulling up. still vulnerable to bounce stretch

Heavy ass hauling .. i'm tied into end of haul line pulling myself down the wall by the other side of the haul line..probably dosnt make much diff if dynamic or static

Various variations.. i generally preffer running down the wall on the end of the haul line as the bag comfortable and smoothly zips up to the belay ... nice on the over hanging stuff


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Aug 28, 2008, 5:54 AM)


majid_sabet


Aug 28, 2008, 6:29 AM
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Re: [skiclimb] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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hobo_climber


Aug 28, 2008, 10:41 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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^^^ WTF?
i'm not even going to attempt to understand.

just an idea... not sure if its been suggested, but if you have a reall aversion to using toothed devices on your pulley/haul system why not use a 'prussic minding pulley; i.e. one with a flat bottom that 'resets' the prussic knot when if hits the pulley thus needing minimal attention paid to it when your hauling your arse off. petzl do a couple of variations, but SMC produce one of the strongest prussic minding pulleys around (25kn breaking strength from memory)

OR, try and get your hands on a SRT (australian...) jummar and use it in your pulley/jammer setup. these bad boys have a 9kN failure rating compared to petzl's 5kN! (pro trax and accension) plus they tend to fail due to the cam inverting rather than cutting/tearing the rope like the petzl (and simmilar) do. only disadvanyage to the SRT jummar is they are heavy as shit cos they are designed for caving where weight isn't and issue.


Partner cracklover


Aug 28, 2008, 1:52 PM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Anyway, aren't you hauling when you get back up to the anchor? And then you have both ascenders with you.

Yup, you're right, I am hauling when I get back to the anchor and I will have two ascenders then. But prior to that.... as soon as I get to my high anchor I have to secure the pig to that anchor. If I simply tie it off (say, with a figure 8 knot) to the anchor, I will have a difficult time once the pig has been weighted to that knot to set up any time of hauling system when I return to the high anchor.

I'm losing you here.

In reply to:
Wouldn't that entail hauling it up a few meters, lock that height off with a prusik / munter / mule concept, undo the fig 8 knot behind that setup, install a pulley system, then go from there?

I don't see why you ever need to undo that knot until you're ready to take off for the next pitch. In the meantime, it serves as an "oh shit" backup, in the worst case scenario that you mightily screw up as you're hauling, and drop the pig. Then you'll be happy it's still tied in (on a dynamic line).

But I could be missing something about your system?

GO


Partner cracklover


Aug 28, 2008, 1:53 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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Thanks, Majid, that literally made me lol.

GO


clintcummins


Aug 28, 2008, 6:48 PM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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Hauling through an inverted GriGri is inferior to using a pulley, because the surface of the GriGri does not rotate as the rope runs over it. So it will have a lot more friction than a pulley.

Hauling through a GriGri would be better than hauling over a single or doubled biner (for a moderately heavy pack), though, as the curve radius is larger than on 1-2 biners. Although I don't usually have GriGri with me when doing a long climb where I might want to occasionally haul a moderately heavy pack.


RangerJ


Aug 28, 2008, 10:21 PM
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Re: [m-earle] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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m-earle wrote:
Using a gri-gri to tighten a slackline once, it became apparent that the gri-gri was being overloaded, and in fact, the sever angle of the cam led to the device cutting through a bit of the rope's sheath (it was static). under that load, it was also impossible to release tension with the lever. even after we cut the rope, the cam had bit into the rope so hard, that it took ten minutes to pop it out.

How much tension was in the system (could you open the gates of the carabiners, or were the carabiners stretched to the point that the gates couldn't open?). And what diameter was the static rope you had through the Grigri?


flamer


Aug 28, 2008, 10:42 PM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:
as soon as I get to my high anchor I have to secure the pig to that anchor. If I simply tie it off (say, with a figure 8 knot) to the anchor, I will have a difficult time once the pig has been weighted to that knot to set up any time of hauling system when I return to the high anchor. Wouldn't that entail hauling it up a few meters, lock that height off with a prusik / munter / mule concept, undo the fig 8 knot behind that setup, install a pulley system, then go from there?


Here is your break down...and a good reason to have a compound pulley for soloing.

You reach the "upper" anchor on lead.
You build your anchor....preferably with 2 power points, 1 for the haul and 1 to fix the lead line.

Clip your compound pulley to the hauling PP...with the rope set up to haul. Pull a couple of feet through to give you some slack on the non working end.
Now rappell. There is some differing opinions on the "best" way. Some folks always rappell the haul line...which woulh have you rapping on the hauler. I personally prefer to rap the lead line and clean as I rappell...if the line is straight.

Once back at the lower anchor lower out your bag so that the hauler is bearing the weight.
Then jug the lead line.
Once you are back at your "upper" anchor, haul away.

josh


RangerJ


Aug 28, 2008, 11:16 PM
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Re: [cracklover] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
I don't see why you ever need to undo that knot until you're ready to take off for the next pitch. In the meantime, it serves as an "oh shit" backup, in the worst case scenario that you mightily screw up as you're hauling, and drop the pig. Then you'll be happy it's still tied in (on a dynamic line).

But I could be missing something about your system?

Umm... let's see if I can explain this better....

I climb (rope solo) to the top anchor. When I set up that station I have to rappell down and undo the bottom anchor, which means transferring the weight of my pig to the top anchor. For most people who work in teams of 2, as I understand things, the leader at the top station (when he arrives) can set up whatever type of pulley system they choose (pulley / reversed ascender, pulley / prusik, carabiner / tibloc, etc). The second (at the bottom anchor) releases the pig, and the leader (at the top) can monitor that transfer and then haul accordingly.

Because I'm by myself I feel a little apprehensive securing this pig to a pulley / prusik combo simply because a) prusik's aren't that big, b) when I go to release the pig onto the top anchor I'm not up there to supervise how the prussik is grabbing the haul line, c) if something disastrous happens up there then the whole thing is gonna fall on my head. The toothed ascender is slightly better, but it's not as... meaty(??)... as, say, a Grigri (especially if that Grigri brake rope is locked down with a mule knot to prevent any slippage). BUT IF THE GENERAL COMMUNITY IS FINE WITH a toothed ascender holding everything together up there (backed up by a fig-8 knot closing the system, and Kate's interesting quickdraw / screamer backup invention) then I may just roll with that, and when it comes time to jumar up the line I will do so with one ascender and this controversial grigri.

So you are right in that I don't want to remove the figure 8 knot that's "further down the line" behind whatever haul system i have set up. That fig-8 knot will effectively "close the system" and not drop the pig on my poor head should something happen up there.... I was thinking that if i fixed the pig to the top anchor with nothing but a fig-8 and then transfer the weight of that pig to that fig-8, by the time I arrive at the top station (again...) I would have a whole lot more work to do to haul that sucker up which would require a few more pieces of gear (especially in the situations where the pig was too heavy to haul by simply pulling with my own direct hands)

With the limited gear I have I'm simply trying to come up with an innovative solution that is a) quick to set up, and b) doesn't require an extensive amount of energy to haul (which is why i was surprised when someone said they have never heard of a 3:1 pulley system used in hauling operations. Why wouldn't you want mechanical advantage working for you and making your job easier??)

Anyone else's head spinning? I think I need a stiff drink...


(This post was edited by RangerJ on Aug 29, 2008, 6:00 AM)


RangerJ


Aug 28, 2008, 11:23 PM
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Re: [flamer] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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flamer wrote:
Clip your compound pulley to the hauling PP...with the rope set up to haul.

Sweet, thx Josh, this is making sense (and I think we're on the same page - except for the whole compound pulley part ;) )

Just so I'm clear, as I've heard the term from different people and they were talking about different contexts (which led to a whole bunch of confusion on a rescue once), how do you define your "compound pulley"? Is this a stand alone device, or a system you create while up there. If it's a system please explain how you set yours up, just so i'm not misinterpreting what you're saying


altelis


Aug 29, 2008, 1:15 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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****DISCLAIMER******* I have NO BIG WALL EXPERIENCE, but I have soloed a fair number of aid pitches and practiced a lot of hauling to PREPARE for an eventual BW

I feel like there is an obvious answer here:
If you attach your pig to the anchor with a load releasable knot (with an unweighted fig-8 back up if you need it), then when you get to the "top" anchor, pull up the haul line slack by hand, and if you just attach the pig with another load releasable knot (and of course the fig-8 back up), problem solved, right?

After that, rap back down to "bottom" anchor. Undo load releasable knot (AFTER undoing fig-8 backup so you don't weight it!) and let bag swing. it will of course end up a little lower than your anchor, but who cares? you can haul the extra foot or two but you get to jug back up with both ascenders.

back up top, set up haul system on slack side of load releasable knot (mariners prob won't work ,use munter/mule), undo knot and let weight come onto pully system.



My guess is i've missed something huge that NOT using real multi-day loads would have taught me, but hey, gotta start somewhere, right?

What did I miss?


flamer


Aug 29, 2008, 1:16 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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Ok.
A compound pulley is a pulley that has a "brake" or "cam" as part of the design. The wall hauler was the first. Now you have the traxion's the kong block roll etc.

They really will make your life 10 times easier.

josh


RangerJ


Aug 29, 2008, 2:09 AM
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Re: [altelis] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
back up top, set up haul system on slack side of load releasable knot (mariners prob won't work ,use munter/mule), undo knot and let weight come onto pully system.

What did I miss?

That ALMOST sounded too good to be true, and i think it is....

If you set up the hauling system on the slack end of the munter / mule knot, you can't really transfer the pig's weight onto that hauling system, because we depend on the rope in the munter / mule combo to run right through the munter carabiner... no?? If there's stuff tied behind that slack end, the munter knot won't come undone.... or am i missing something?


RangerJ


Aug 29, 2008, 2:15 AM
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flamer wrote:
A compound pulley is a pulley that has a "brake" or "cam" as part of the design. The wall hauler was the first. Now you have the traxion's the kong block roll etc.

That seems to be the majority vote here on this post, that I should just buck up and spend the money on a pro trax. It WILL make my life 10 times easier, but I'll also be 10 times hungrier for the next month....

For future trips I will invest in the gear, but for this trip I'm looking to know if this inverted grigri can substitute for these magical devices, or am i going to be suffering in even-more-misery-than-normal-while-hauling for those two days.

Keep the ideas coming... I'm having fun figuring out solutions to my low budget fiascos.


stymingersfink


Aug 29, 2008, 2:42 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:

With the limited gear I have I'm simply trying to come up with an innovative solution that is a) quick to set up, and b) doesn't require an extensive amount of energy to haul (which is why i was surprised when someone said they have never heard of a 3:1 pulley system used in hauling operations. Why wouldn't you want mechanical advantage working for you and making your job easier??)

Anyone else's head spinning? I think I need a stiff drink...

the drink part goes without saying.

the 3:1 has advantages and dis-advantages. I've never heard/seen anyone using one to haul wall-loads either, but I suppose this doesn't mean it can't/don't happen, especially with the excessively large loads required for multi-week ascents.

the first disadvantage of utilizing such a system is one of two things ... either you need 300' of line to make a 100' haul, or you need a fairly simple (but no where near as simple as a straight haul) pulley SYSTEM which is going to need to be reset after each "stroke" (meaning the limit of your 3:1 assist's range). Either way, you'll still be jugging that 300' of rope to make a 100' haul.

To my way of thinking, if the load on the other end is near or slightly greater than equal to your personal bodyweight, it's just easier to space-haul, invert a jug to pull up on the heavy side as your bodyweight counters the weight of the bags (keep that jug tethered with your daisy, don't wanna lose it down to the bags!)

^^this is where the 20-30' leadline tether comes in handy ;)


stymingersfink


Aug 29, 2008, 2:50 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:
For future trips I will invest in the gear, but for this trip I'm looking to know if this inverted grigri can substitute for these magical devices, or am i going to be suffering in even-more-misery-than-normal-while-hauling for those two days.

Keep the ideas coming... I'm having fun figuring out solutions to my low budget fiascos.

In reply to:
You still stood there screaming
No one caring about these words you tell
My friend before your voice is gone
One mans fun is anothers hell
These times are sent to try mens souls
But somethings wrong with all you see
You youll take it on all yourself
Remember, misery loves company

Misery
You insist that the weight of the world
Should be on your shoulders
Misery
Theres much more to life than what you see
My friend of misery

at the least spend six or twelve bucks and get one or two of those little plastic pulley sheaves that you can throw on an oval.

You'll still need some way to capture your haul progress though.Unimpressed


RangerJ


Aug 29, 2008, 5:57 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
or you need a fairly simple (but no where near as simple as a straight haul) pulley system which is going to need to be reset after each "stroke".

Agreed, it's more complicated, but at first I had thought that working smarter would have meant not working harder. And (what I had thought) the brilliance of inverting the Grigri meant I wouldn't have to mind any prussiks, or reset anything after each stroke (both physical and cerebral). In fact, all I have to do is pull, reach down the line, repeat - the Grigri locks automatically and does all the reseting for me, and the ascender has a great habit of sliding down the haul line on its own.

Or, when I get tired of pulling, I could even take my second ascender, invert it and attach it to the haul line at the end of the z-pulley, tether it to my harness, and begin doing squats until the pig arrives at the station.

OR... maybe I should just shut the heck up and try a bunch of these while I'm out there. I suppose it all comes down to the fact that I really don't know how much weight it takes to make space hauling uncomfortable (correction, more uncomfortable) to the point where you want to try a more complicated system.

Oh, and thx for the suggestion about tethering the first inverted ascender to the anchor. I did, actually, lose it the first time while practicing....

*cough* noob *cough* *cough*


(This post was edited by RangerJ on Aug 29, 2008, 6:26 AM)


stymingersfink


Aug 29, 2008, 6:36 AM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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RangerJ wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
or you need a fairly simple (but no where near as simple as a straight haul) pulley system which is going to need to be reset after each "stroke".

Agreed, it's more complicated, but at first I had thought that working smarter would have meant not working harder. And (what I had thought) the brilliance of inverting the Grigri meant I wouldn't have to mind any prussiks, or reset anything after each stroke (both physical and cerebral). In fact, all I have to do is pull, reach down the line, repeat - the Grigri locks automatically and does all the reseting for me.

Or, when I get tired of pulling, I could even take my second ascender, invert it and attach it to the haul line at the end of the z-pulley, tether it to my harness, and begin doing squats until the pig arrives at the station.

OR... maybe I should just shut the heck up and try a bunch of these while I'm out there. I suppose it all comes down to the fact that I really don't know how much weight it takes to make space hauling uncomfortable (correction, more uncomfortable) to the point where you want to try a more complicated system.

Oh, and thx for the suggestion about tethering the first inverted ascender to the anchor. I did, actually, lose it the first time while practicing....

*cough* noob *cough* *cough*
Well, juggin rope is juggin' rope. Whether you put "1/3" the effort into it to make a 3:1 haul or not, you're still juggin'.

As far as the "load limit" on space hauling goes, it's one of those things that only gets easier the higher you go. IIRC, I'll attach one ascender (with safety biner clipped) from a daisy to the light side of the haul. the other inverted ascender from daisy to the heavy side(<--that's the one I meant).

my bodyweight counters the pigs, but not quite, so by hoisting up on the heavy side i can effect their upward movement. one advantage to this from where I sit is I can easily swap which arm gets the workout on the ride down (truth is, it usually takes both simultaneously pulling to get the bags to move up, thereby sending me down)


all in all, inverting and hauling through a grigri is working harder, not smarter. there are quite a few techniques you'll have to discard before that one comes to the top of the list.

It sounds like you've come to realize this, but really there's no substitute for experience.Wink


(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Aug 29, 2008, 6:38 AM)


pmyche


Aug 29, 2008, 7:25 AM
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flamer wrote:
A compound pulley is a pulley that has a "brake" or "cam" as part of the design.

Pete Z. once tried to assert this same "compound" terminology, which is false. A compound pulley employs multiple sheaves. I call the kind with a ratcheting jaw a "ratcheting pulley" for lack of something more descriptive.

Cheers.


kristoffer


Aug 29, 2008, 11:46 AM
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I haven’t been completely following this post, but from what I have read it seems like a lot of stuff is being nuked and extra links are being added to the system that just don’t need to be there.

You can easily solo a big wall and haul a heavy load with a few pulleys and two jugs… all of that other fancy gear is nice and all, but things can still be just as efficient with basic gear.

I am just going to rehash everything, so here is how I would do it.


-rig a solid anchor and tie the END of my haul line into the power point. Repel the haul line with your grigri (your not repelling off of a haul device, but rather the knot on the end of the haul line, its one less link to fail)

-now transfer from your haul line back over to your bottom anchor and slap one of your ascenders and aider onto the haul line, start yarding down on that aider pulling slack out of the haul line! Once the line is supper tight your going to tie an alpine butterfly (or any other bight knot) below your ascender and aider that is holding the line tight. Now clip your pig into the bight of the alpine butter fly. You should now have all the slack out of your system and a big loop of free line that you can either use to lower out the pig or just stuff it in the haul bag (I usually just stuff it in the haul bag)

-lower out the pig, hey look! I really didn’t do that much “lowering” because all of the slack was already out of the system. Efficiency!

-jug and clean pitch.

-back at the top anchor I would build 2:1 hauling system with a short chunk of 8mm or so of static cord. Its pretty much pre-rigged so its fast. Now I would use that 2:1 setup to lift the pig about a foot or two so I could put a pulley and an inverted ascender on it.

-haul like a mad man with your 2:1 advantage, and once the pig has gotten light enough switch to 1:1 Hauling is really one of the mentally easier aspects of solo wall climbing, a great time to clear your mind from that 5 hour horror show that you just sent.

If you don’t know what im talking about with the 2:1 you can refer to this
http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttaid228/
I personally ditch a few of the components in that particular system.

I find this way to be easy and efficient, but hey there are a thousand ways to skin a cat and haul a pig.

Zephyr


stymingersfink


Aug 29, 2008, 2:49 PM
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Re: [pmyche] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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pmyche wrote:
flamer wrote:
A compound pulley is a pulley that has a "brake" or "cam" as part of the design.

Pete Z. once tried to assert this same "compound" terminology, which is false. A compound pulley employs multiple sheaves. I call the kind with a ratcheting jaw a "ratcheting pulley" for lack of something more descriptive.

Cheers.
^^this is correct


Partner holdplease2


Aug 29, 2008, 4:35 PM
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Re: [RangerJ] hauling the pig with inverted grigri?? [In reply to]
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I've used a 3:1 hauling system before. I didn't plan on it, but here's what happened...both times.

I was on week+ climbs solo, so there was no help with the haul, and I weighed 115...ok130, but whose counting.

In the first case, the 2:1 was working ok, but I was really having to invert and push with my legs. Too dumb to hook my chest harness in to bear some of the weight, I got stress fractures in my ribs and damaged my kidneys. Had to switch to 3:1, as I was only half way up and had to finish.

In the second case, I was using a 2:1 with my chest and sit harness attached, and it worked great. Until I had to haul up a slab. All of a sudden the bags werent moving on a 2:1 so I switched to a 3:1 Z-rig.

In either case, if youre sure you'll need a 2:1 to move your bags, you better also know a 3:1 and have the gear to do it just in case something goes wrong or your friction increases.

To the poster (skiclimb) who I was talking about who noticed a difference with static vs dynamic...no idea, maybe its just a personal preference thing for feel. Plenty of people doing it both ways, thats for sure.

-Kate.

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