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Roots
Sep 24, 2008, 5:54 PM
Post #26 of 46
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Registered: Jan 28, 2008
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dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: Roots wrote: T-nuts need Liquid Nails after being hammered in. Just spread the glue around the backside outer edge, then you're solid. no they don't This is korrekt. As long as you drill your holes straight and pound the t-nuts nice and flush you shouldn't have any need for liquid nails....and because you did such a nice job with those t-nuts you'll never need to get behind the wall. That'll mean you can fill in the right side as suggested by others. d. I must say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...when you get bored and start resetting your holds you may wish you had considered it because when the tee nuts drop down the back that ply wood is a pain to remove (heavy). T-ntus do get stripped....well the wood does from the occasional (hold) spinner or from becoming skewed when hammering. This advice is coming from actual experience of building a huge gym in my garage. Take it or leave it..just trying to help you out.
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dlintz
Sep 24, 2008, 6:16 PM
Post #27 of 46
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Roots wrote: dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: Roots wrote: T-nuts need Liquid Nails after being hammered in. Just spread the glue around the backside outer edge, then you're solid. no they don't This is korrekt. As long as you drill your holes straight and pound the t-nuts nice and flush you shouldn't have any need for liquid nails....and because you did such a nice job with those t-nuts you'll never need to get behind the wall. That'll mean you can fill in the right side as suggested by others. d. I must say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...when you get bored and start resetting your holds you may wish you had considered it because when the tee nuts drop down the back that ply wood is a pain to remove (heavy). T-ntus do get stripped....well the wood does from the occasional (hold) spinner or from becoming skewed when hammering. This advice is coming from actual experience of building a huge gym in my garage. Take it or leave it..just trying to help you out. Which is exactly why I said to make sure holes are drilled straight and t-nuts pounded nice and flush. I've built 4 woodies (the latest being almost 400 sq. feet) with thousands of t-nuts and have had only a handful of spinners. My and rockforlife's point is that if done correctly liquid nails isn't necessary. d.
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kane_schutzman
Sep 25, 2008, 9:18 PM
Post #28 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Well I have some epoxy curing in some molds, so hopefully they will turn out and I can get some cheap holds to try.
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kane_schutzman
Sep 26, 2008, 3:55 AM
Post #29 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Ok just for the record making your own holds is such a pain in the ass. I have about one that came out as expected haha. Instead im ordering a load of atomic holds. Everyone seems to like those. Thanks
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deltav
Sep 26, 2008, 4:49 AM
Post #30 of 46
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597
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dlintz wrote: Roots wrote: dlintz wrote: rockforlife wrote: Roots wrote: T-nuts need Liquid Nails after being hammered in. Just spread the glue around the backside outer edge, then you're solid. no they don't This is korrekt. As long as you drill your holes straight and pound the t-nuts nice and flush you shouldn't have any need for liquid nails....and because you did such a nice job with those t-nuts you'll never need to get behind the wall. That'll mean you can fill in the right side as suggested by others. d. I must say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...when you get bored and start resetting your holds you may wish you had considered it because when the tee nuts drop down the back that ply wood is a pain to remove (heavy). T-ntus do get stripped....well the wood does from the occasional (hold) spinner or from becoming skewed when hammering. This advice is coming from actual experience of building a huge gym in my garage. Take it or leave it..just trying to help you out. Which is exactly why I said to make sure holes are drilled straight and t-nuts pounded nice and flush. I've built 4 woodies (the latest being almost 400 sq. feet) with thousands of t-nuts and have had only a handful of spinners. My and rockforlife's point is that if done correctly liquid nails isn't necessary. d. I manage a commercial gym and I highly recommend the liquid nails idea.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 2, 2008, 3:56 AM
Post #31 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Well, I put the side board up like you guys were talking about and your right, that is going to be a pretty nice arete, I love it. Also the holds get here friday, so I guess thats when the fun starts.
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Eugene
Oct 2, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #32 of 46
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Do you mind posting more pics? I'm working on my woodie as well.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 2, 2008, 5:49 PM
Post #33 of 46
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Not at all, I can get them up today, without holds, or tommarrow night, which holds on the wall. Its up to you, but is there anything specific that you wanna see?
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irregularpanda
Oct 2, 2008, 5:53 PM
Post #34 of 46
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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rockforlife wrote: Roots wrote: T-nuts need Liquid Nails after being hammered in. Just spread the glue around the backside outer edge, then you're solid. no they don't No, they definitely don't. Just hammer them in straight, and avoid a hasty blow that would send the T-nut askew.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 2, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #35 of 46
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Well, today I put one in and it popped out several times, so I ll probably do it on the troubled(scewed) T-nuts anyhow.
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2008, 11:24 PM
Post #36 of 46
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Did you take the plywood down to hammer the T nuts? They really need to be on a solid surface so you can get good contact. If the ply is still up go behind.. draw pencil marks where the framing is so you don't put a useless t nut there.
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Eugene
Oct 3, 2008, 12:50 AM
Post #37 of 46
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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kane_schutzman wrote: Not at all, I can get them up today, without holds, or tommarrow night, which holds on the wall. Its up to you, but is there anything specific that you wanna see? with and without. I just want to see how the overall wall is going.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 3, 2008, 1:29 AM
Post #38 of 46
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Will get some tommarrow then. Well, Im not taking the wood down thats on the overhang, first off that shit is heavy and I don't have anyone else to help put it up tommarrow. Second I found a bit that will drill a perfect hole everytime. So, thats my tip to you guys, go get a damn good bit. I got mine from Lowes, and its a bit that levels itself out.Boring bit, but its fucking awsome, drills the hole in like one second, and they turn out perfectly straight everytime due to the design of the first part penetrating the wood. I ll get more info on it if you want.
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chossmonkey
Oct 3, 2008, 10:33 AM
Post #40 of 46
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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In reply to: Did you take the plywood down to hammer the T nuts? They really need to be on a solid surface so you can get good contact. If the ply is still up go behind.. draw pencil marks where the framing is so you don't put a useless t nut there. They should settle once the hold is put on. The holds will need to tightened frequently at first though. I find with new t-nut even when fully hammered in they still seat some and the holds need to be retighted a couple times. When I made the mistake of putting in t-nuts after the plywood was up I made a setting tool with a block of wood, a bolt, and some washers that I used for setting them rather than a good hold. The threads need to be kept lubricated or they can seize. I had to cut one bolt off when it seized into the t-nut. Putting liquid nails or some other construction adhesive on and not fully setting the t-nut sounds like a sure way to have problems. Just skip the adhesive and make sure they are set properly to start with.
(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Oct 3, 2008, 10:35 AM)
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kane_schutzman
Oct 4, 2008, 5:47 PM
Post #41 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Hey man, Ive been hammering them in and just using the block and holds to get them all tight and settled in. Things are going super quick now that I got the hang of it. Just realized I have more damn holds then I think will fit on my wall, but thats a good thing! Its about 1/4 done, but Im gunna have to go to a damn rodeo and work the gates for communtiy service haha. So those finished picures will have to wait till probably tommarrow. Just for the record atomicclimbingholds.com hooked me up. I love their holds too.
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Valarc
Oct 5, 2008, 4:25 PM
Post #42 of 46
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Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
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Watch yourself with atomik holds. THey have a lot of shapes available and their prices are great... HOWEVER, some of the holds are potential tendon-trashers. A lot of their "jug" type holds have sharp edges that can increase the strain on your tendons. I understand sharp might be more realistic, but when you're training on plastic I prefer the most tendon-friendly holds possible. I want to work my fingers, not blow them out. Just be careful.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 19, 2008, 11:20 PM
Post #43 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Well, it took awhile to get pictures because Ive been too busy climbing it, and school. Ah, school, damn. Anyways, here are some photos. The Synrock holds are awsome pinches, love em.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 19, 2008, 11:22 PM
Post #44 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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ps, I have alot of extra jugs, that I might sell. Or trade for some small and hard to hold onto holds.
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hopperhopper
Oct 20, 2008, 12:39 AM
Post #45 of 46
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Registered: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 475
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What degree overhang is that? I'm trying to get an idea for steepness when I get around to building one.
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kane_schutzman
Oct 20, 2008, 7:58 PM
Post #46 of 46
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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probably like 55
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