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boulderflasher
Oct 1, 2008, 12:15 AM
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I am thinking of going to Yosemite and climbing Snake Dike in the next couple of weeks. The super topo book recommends a couple of cams and a couple of nuts. I have a 60m rope and should be able to skip the protection-needed belay. Will I need to bring along my cams and nuts, or will I be fine without?
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salamanizer
Oct 1, 2008, 12:26 AM
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boulderflasher wrote: I am thinking of going to Yosemite and climbing Snake Dike in the next couple of weeks. The super topo book recommends a couple of cams and a couple of nuts. I have a 60m rope and should be able to skip the protection-needed belay. Will I need to bring along my cams and nuts, or will I be fine without?
Thats a personal question only you can answer.
If you don't feel comfortable running it out and want as much pro as you can get on 5.4, bring them. Some people do, some don't. You decide.
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boulderflasher
Oct 1, 2008, 12:37 AM
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Thanks for the quick response. I am not worried about the long runout 5.4 sections. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any belay points or "cruxes" that I would be wanting extra pro.
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glahhg
Oct 1, 2008, 1:02 AM
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As I recall you need some gear on the route. Bring a handful of nuts and a couple of cams.
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salamanizer
Oct 1, 2008, 1:26 AM
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Oh.......
In that case. All the anchors are bolted. You may want a piece of pro or two on some of the lower pitches. Bring a set of nuts and three cams. .5", .75" and 1" to broden your options. With that you can sew the thing up as best it allows.
Oh and a half dozen double slings helps. 48"
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Factor2
Oct 1, 2008, 1:38 AM
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What about the very last pitch before you begin scrambling to the top. I seem to recall having to build an anchor there.
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salamanizer
Oct 1, 2008, 1:57 AM
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Factor2 wrote: What about the very last pitch before you begin scrambling to the top. I seem to recall having to build an anchor there.
Huh???
Oh yeah, forgot about that. I think most people just start to simul at the top of pitch 6. But you do need a piece of gear or two on the ride to the top.
Unless of course you both wanna go out together should one of you fall.
Disclaimer...
Don't listen to this man, he can't properly remember shit.
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sgreer
Oct 1, 2008, 9:42 PM
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You need some pro for the first pitch and the last two belays. I remember on the very last belay I used a number 1 BD and clipped my haul loop to it then wedged myself behind a rock and brought up the second. But that last pitch is way easy so not much more is needed. The Second to last is also very easy and you need thee peices to be safe.
On the first pitch you will need some pro up to .75 If I remember correctly.I would say bring .3 - #2 bd no more than that and only one of each and some medium sized stoppers. Use Quick draws for the bolted anchors too. It will save some time.
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sgreer
Oct 1, 2008, 9:42 PM
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You need some pro for the first pitch and the last two belays. I remember on the very last belay I used a number 1 BD and clipped my haul loop to it then wedged myself behind a rock and brought up the second. But that last pitch is way easy so not much more is needed. The Second to last is also very easy and you need thee peices to be safe.
On the first pitch you will need some pro up to .75 If I remember correctly.I would say bring .3 - #2 bd no more than that and only one of each and some medium sized stoppers. Use Quick draws for the bolted anchors too. It will save some time.
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climbaddic
Oct 1, 2008, 10:13 PM
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boulderflasher wrote: I am thinking of going to Yosemite and climbing Snake Dike in the next couple of weeks. The super topo book recommends a couple of cams and a couple of nuts. I have a 60m rope and should be able to skip the protection-needed belay. Will I need to bring along my cams and nuts, or will I be fine without?
You don't need much gear, I took 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 Camalot. I didn't see a use for nut placement. Also, about 6 trad draws and personal anchor.
I am not sure if your profile is up to date, but I would suggest you not doing that route first. Snake Dike is not very beginner friendly route. It is truly R rated with over 90 feet run-out in some sections (I actually got little lost, and did 200 feet without any pro). Also, route is not really easy to back off when the weather comes in. Try something like Grack, After 6 or/and 7, Nutcracker in the valley instead. Those routes are less committing, and easier hike. When you feel confidant with Yosemite's slippery rock, you might want to go off do Snake Dike.
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summerprophet
Oct 1, 2008, 10:25 PM
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I agree on the rack. I took .75, 1, 2 and 5 medium to large nuts.
Getting late in the season for Snake Dike though..... come prepared for rapidly variable weather (second rope, rain gear, ect).
Take a look around for clouds building on the approach (assuming there is light).... if there is anything at all, come back another day, half dome attracts weather in a big way.
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jkd159
Oct 2, 2008, 3:23 AM
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Back in Sophomore year, I climbed Snake Dike and made these notes a day or two later:
The first two pitches are supposedly 5.7, but feel more like 5.5 or 5.6. Protection is decent. After that the climbing is easy, and the protection is widely spaced. We are climbing very fast. The three of us consistently climb faster than the party of two ahead of us, and we catch them at each belay. At the start of the fourth pitch I grab one draw off Ryan's harness and start my lead. No, I wasn't making a bumblie mistake, that is the rack for p4 -- climb 70' and clip a bolt then climb 70' to the anchor. P6 is 100' to the first bolt and then 20' to the anchors. The final two pitches are basically just walking. Ryan and I don't place any gear. The rack for Snake Dike is ultralight. If I were to climb it again, I'd bring three aliens (green, yellow, red) and four draws. That's it.
That gear list doesn't include the pair of cordalettes or quads that I would bring for the anchors. The gear beta is probably appropriate only for someone willing to run it out on the first two pitches. You have to be willing to run out the rest of the pitches if you are climbing Snake Dike.
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boulderflasher
Oct 2, 2008, 3:27 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I did not start logging my climes until recently, so many of the climbs I did before are not posted. I am not worried about the long run out sections as I have climbed in Yosemite before and have a pretty good feel for the rock. Thanks for the advice about the weather. I saw the quick change last time I was there, was walking to a hike mid-afternoon and the sky was clear, by the time we racked up and were about to start the climb a storm had come in.
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