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mike_devildog
Oct 5, 2008, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2005
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Headed to Stone this weekend..October 10-13, besides Entry Crack.. what is the best well protected route to gain the tree ledge to do the Great Arch? Appreciate the beta! Also time wise..if we started Friday around 3pm..is that enough time to get up and down before dark? Peace and Gratitude!
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mike_devildog
Oct 5, 2008, 1:52 AM
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What route is this going to the tree ledge? http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=106506776&albumID=2322288&imageID=32952169
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gothcopter
Oct 6, 2008, 2:43 PM
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That looks like U-Slot. I've done that one, and it's not too bad by Stone Mountain standards. The slab runout up to the overhang is pretty easy, and there is good gear to the left under the overhang before you tackle the crux. I think the routes generally regarded as "safest" are Block Route and U-Slot. I've never done Block Route, but I get the impression it's at least as easy/safe as U-Slot. Keep in mind that none of the routes to the tree ledge can be regarded as "well-protected" by most people's standards. As far as getting up/down in time starting at 3pm, that really depends on how fast you go! That should be plenty of time for the average party of two to do one run to the top. If you pack light and take your stuff along, then you can take only one 60m rope and hike back to the parking lot along the summit trail instead of rappelling.
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deltav
Oct 6, 2008, 3:34 PM
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Having done both U-Slot and Block Route, I feel that Block Route is a better way to go. As far as time, remember that it is dark by 7 right now, so as long as you have can climb 4-5 pitches in under 4 hours, you will be fine. Bring a headlamp just in case though.
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notapplicable
Oct 7, 2008, 1:54 AM
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My vote goes for U-slot. I've done it a number of times and the climbing is fun and varied with a nice runout at the top. What ever you do, stay away from the "entrance crack", its a nasty thing and not the least bit fun. As far as time frame goes, dark is not really what you have to worry about. Make sure you can be down and out of the park gates by the time they are closed. The ranger comes through locking up each evening and if he has to hang around and wait for you to finish up, you will a lengthy lecture. The one I ran into after a protracted retreat from high on the wall, was a real prick but the rules are the rules.
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mike_devildog
Oct 8, 2008, 2:41 PM
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Thanks for everybodys info and beta!!
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