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The 2008-2009 Ice Conditions Thread
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mattb1921


Oct 13, 2008, 3:46 PM
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Re: [the_climber] The 2008-2009 Ice Conditions Thread [In reply to]
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I am getting excited. I hope to be up in RMNP in a few weeks. I hope to do more than just take my tools for a walk.


jhattan


Oct 13, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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We're starting to see the first signs of winter ice forming at/above 10,000 ft. here in the Winds. Still a few weeks out though.





(This post was edited by jhattan on Oct 13, 2008, 8:47 PM)


the_climber


Oct 14, 2008, 3:13 AM
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Re: [jhattan] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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I saw climbable ice today. Will post pics when I can download the camera.

Heard reports that ice was climbed near Canmore this weekend.


sungam


Oct 14, 2008, 4:45 PM
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[censured] filling with blood...


the_climber


Oct 14, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Taken a couple days ago in Kananaskis Country, Alberta, Canada.










sungam


Oct 14, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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How far is that from you? You gunna hit it?


mattb1921


Oct 14, 2008, 10:45 PM
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Wow, Those are great pictures. I have got to move closer to ice. I get so jealous when I see ice in October.


the_climber


Oct 15, 2008, 3:03 PM
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Re: [sungam] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
How far is that from you? You gunna hit it?

About an hour and 15 mins to hour and a half depending on driving conditions. 45min to hour and a half hike depending on snow conditions.


sungam


Oct 15, 2008, 4:32 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
How far is that from you? You gunna hit it?

About an hour and 15 mins to hour and a half depending on driving conditions. 45min to hour and a half hike depending on snow conditions.
So you're looking foreward to the weekend, then? Wink
How long till it's totally solid? Already? (I've never climbed a waterfall before)


gargrantuan


Oct 15, 2008, 4:49 PM
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Re: [sungam] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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the parkway will have some early season ice as well. shades is almost in enough to climb as are the fluffy's routes on athabasca's N glacier. lemonade springs would go and i bet the climbs up wooley creek are ready as well. it has been COLD here this week.


the_climber


Oct 15, 2008, 5:01 PM
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Re: [sungam] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
How far is that from you? You gunna hit it?

About an hour and 15 mins to hour and a half depending on driving conditions. 45min to hour and a half hike depending on snow conditions.
So you're looking foreward to the weekend, then? Wink
How long till it's totally solid? Already? (I've never climbed a waterfall before)

Well more looking forward to tomorrow.
And it's already seen a few accents this year. It is "GAME ON!" in the Great Canadian Chossies!


sungam


Oct 15, 2008, 10:34 PM
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the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
How far is that from you? You gunna hit it?

About an hour and 15 mins to hour and a half depending on driving conditions. 45min to hour and a half hike depending on snow conditions.
So you're looking foreward to the weekend, then? Wink
How long till it's totally solid? Already? (I've never climbed a waterfall before)

Well more looking forward to tomorrow.
And it's already seen a few accents this year. It is "GAME ON!" in the Great Canadian Chossies!
Take pictures so I can add to my jack stack. Tongue


chossmonkey


Oct 17, 2008, 11:07 AM
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Re: [the_climber] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
Taken a couple days ago in Kananaskis Country, Alberta, Canada.







I will admit that ice has been the furthest thing from my mind the last two weeks that we have been here at the Red, but those pics make me HOT for some ice.


JustinMT


Oct 19, 2008, 2:34 AM
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Hyalite Canyon [In reply to]
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Well, rumor has it here in Bozeman that the ice is coming in. It was a nice sunny day at Practice Rock today, but I spoke with a gal who told me that she had gone up with binoculars and observed a bunch of climbs coming in. She mentioned specifically that the Genesis Area was forming pretty nicely. I am super ready to sink the tools in some ice this winter!!!


sungam


Oct 19, 2008, 2:37 AM
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I am way too tired to have a credit card.
I just bought a new set of tools (grivel carbon fiber babies), a new lightweight alpine axe(grivel nepal light), and a new set of crampons (G14 GSB's) all for less then the RRP of the set of axes!
Roll on the winter!


the_climber


Oct 19, 2008, 6:49 AM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Taken a couple days ago in Kananaskis Country, Alberta, Canada.







I will admit that ice has been the furthest thing from my mind the last two weeks that we have been here at the Red, but those pics make me HOT for some ice.

And I will have to add that today all of those climbs pictured were climbed. Richard and myself on the left route in the first pic. Will Gadd and Raphael Slawinski on the right route of the first pic. And another party on the route in the last pic.

2008/2009 ice season is now seeing regular accents on multiple climbs in the Canadian Rockies. And there is only more coming in F A S T !!!!!!!!!!!!! That's right.... the Canadian's were first, again.


dr_feelgood


Oct 19, 2008, 2:44 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Taken a couple days ago in Kananaskis Country, Alberta, Canada.







I will admit that ice has been the furthest thing from my mind the last two weeks that we have been here at the Red, but those pics make me HOT for some ice.

And I will have to add that today all of those climbs pictured were climbed. Richard and myself on the left route in the first pic. Will Gadd and Raphael Slawinski on the right route of the first pic. And another party on the route in the last pic.

2008/2009 ice season is now seeing regular accents on multiple climbs in the Canadian Rockies. And there is only more coming in F A S T !!!!!!!!!!!!! That's right.... the Canadian's were first, again.

Fuck you and your higher latitude.


anykineclimb


Oct 19, 2008, 2:49 PM
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Re: [sungam] Hyalite Canyon [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
I am way too tired to have a credit card.
I just bought a new set of tools (grivel carbon fiber babies), a new lightweight alpine axe(grivel nepal light), and a new set of crampons (G14 GSB's) all for less then the RRP of the set of axes!
Roll on the winter!

You'll have to let us know how those GSB's fare. I haven't heard any feedback on them


sungam


Oct 19, 2008, 6:14 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
sungam wrote:
I am way too tired to have a credit card.
I just bought a new set of tools (grivel carbon fiber babies), a new lightweight alpine axe(grivel nepal light), and a new set of crampons (G14 GSB's) all for less then the RRP of the set of axes!
Roll on the winter!

You'll have to let us know how those GSB's fare. I haven't heard any feedback on them
My buddy suggested I got them, he used them for a season. He said it was easy get the stopper out of the hole (where the hook thing goes in) and to clear the hole- both using the front point of the poon. I'll let you know how I feel about them when I get a chance to put them into action.


endlessmonkeys


Oct 20, 2008, 9:06 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Wind River Ice [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
Taken a couple days ago in Kananaskis Country, Alberta, Canada.

[image]http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showimage/id/398/type/m/Lone_Ranger_and_C&theB.jpg[/image]

[image]http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showimage/id/399/type/m/Lone_Ranger.jpg[/image]

[image]http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showimage/id/400/type/m/Chalice_and_the_Blade.jpg[/image]

[image]http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showimage/id/401/type/m/R_&_D.jpg[/image]

gorgeous. so gorgeous. it's like poetry... wrapped in sex... approved by Jesus...


cybele


Oct 27, 2008, 1:32 AM
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Ice along Icefields Pkwy [In reply to]
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I took my mom on a driving tour and tourist vacation from Calgary to Jasper and Hinton recently, and was delighted to see all the climbs coming in...even the south facing ones... and it was only the second week of October.


the_climber


Oct 27, 2008, 3:49 PM
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Re: [cybele] Ice along Icefields Pkwy [In reply to]
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It was lower lighting, but I took a look at the Terminator on Mt.Rundle 2 evenings ago... it loks like the Terminator may have touched down! Sea of Vapours was looking like it's near climbable for someone crazier than I.

Climbed seriously FAT ice in The Ghost yesterday morning.


sungam


Oct 27, 2008, 6:41 PM
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the_climber wrote:
Climbed seriously FAT ice in The Ghost yesterday morning.
What is this "fat" ice you speak of?


the_climber


Oct 27, 2008, 8:15 PM
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Re: [sungam] Ice along Icefields Pkwy [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Climbed seriously FAT ice in The Ghost yesterday morning.
What is this "fat" ice you speak of?

I think pictures are a better way to describe ice to you:

Stuff that would be Good ice conditions in Scotland


Stuff that would be marginal ice conditions in Canada



same as above in typical super fat mid season condition


Fat Early season Canadian Ice:



Same Climb as it was 2 years ago in mid/late November to Show Fat 'Typcal' conditions



And for a really good indication of super fat conditions (ie. something that wouldn't happen in Haggisdonny land):
Pillar example, Beowulf, Ghost River Alberta

having climbed that pillar in thin conditions previously I would guess the pillar to be on the order of 15m thick in that pic.
Attachments: Joker.jpg (125 KB)
  hiddendragon.jpg (128 KB)


carabiner96


Oct 27, 2008, 8:34 PM
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Re: [sungam] Ice along Icefields Pkwy [In reply to]
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we're seeing ice now that's about 1/8" thick, perfect for a good sketch fest. We're expecting 6" of snow in the mountains of the next two days, so after a good romp in the snow, i expect to spend the weekend on ice.

I need a goddam tool for my right hand!

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