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superbum


Feb 5, 2006, 4:50 AM
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best 9.8mm rope?
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OK, let it fly...brand/model of the best 9.8 lead rope...

Going to be used for LONG trad clibs and hard sport...

No, I don't care about anything above 10mm (not beause I am a trendy skinny rope lover, I just have been there before...) or Under 9.6mm...


landgolier


Feb 5, 2006, 4:55 AM
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Re: best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Beal Booster. High fall rating, low impact force, handles well, middle mark (no warning track marks). Haven't had it long enough to say anything about year after year durability, but after a season it looks good.


noface


Feb 5, 2006, 5:12 AM
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Re: best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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The new monster metolius ropes. The rope is extremely supple new and stays that way. It's my everything rope now. Comes with a rope bag as well. Also comes with a middle mark. I think they are using the new middle marking system with the fuzzy thread. Comes in a 60m and 70m lenght. repelling goes really weel when used with a reverso.


HappinessIsWinning


Oct 20, 2008, 4:22 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Does anyone have any opinions about the Petzl Nomad or the Maxim Glider 9.8mm?


scottb


Oct 20, 2008, 4:26 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Sterling Velocity is worth a look.







Edit: Wait! I want to change my answer to: "The best 9.8mm rope is the 9.8mm rope having the most fun!"


(This post was edited by scottb on Oct 20, 2008, 4:29 PM)


hersheygear88


Oct 20, 2008, 4:31 PM
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Re: [HappinessIsWinning] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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My nomad is going strong after two moderate seasons of lead. Still supple enough to cuddle with at night too. My buddy has a Sterling Velocity that's been through three HARD seasons now and doing pretty well (real fuzzy though). I think either of the above is a solid buy.


(This post was edited by hersheygear88 on Oct 21, 2008, 6:37 PM)


asiaclimber


Oct 20, 2008, 4:34 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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blue water lightning pro 9.7 by pattern 61gm per meter, a supple lovely rope that can take a good beating.


HappinessIsWinning


Oct 20, 2008, 4:39 PM
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Re: [asiaclimber] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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The Blue Water lightning pro has great specs, I will certainly be considering it.

http://alpenglowgear.com/...&products_id=700


clc


Oct 20, 2008, 4:45 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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9.9mm Maxim Apex, $120 canadian, durable good fall (8-9)rating for size.


HappinessIsWinning


Oct 20, 2008, 4:58 PM
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Here is a link for the Maxim Glider. The TPT (Twill Pattern Technology) seems interesting but I am skeptical since I have trouble finding reviews about it.

http://www.neropes.com/...amp;lid=1&pid=53


irregularpanda


Oct 20, 2008, 5:16 PM
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Re: [noface] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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[quote "noface"]The new monster metolius ropes. The rope is extremely supple new and stays that way. It's my everything rope now. Comes with a rope bag as well. Also comes with a middle mark. I think they are using the new middle marking system with the fuzzy thread. Comes in a 60m and 70m lenght. repelling goes really weel when used with a reverso.[/quote]

I disagree. The rope could be good, because everything you say is true...... however when the specs for a rope read "0% sheath slippage" and the sheath slips, that pisses me off.

Mine slips, my gym monster ropes slip. Metolius monster ropes have sheath slippage, even if they do sell for a great price[:/]


shockabuku


Oct 20, 2008, 5:30 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Another vote for the Sterling Nitro.


ryanb


Oct 20, 2008, 5:34 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Buy cheap, buy often.

I have the 9.8 monster, got in on sale for $120/70m. It is fine but is getting fuzzy fast near one end. I haven't noticed sheath slippage but that might be a usage pattern thing.

A friend has the 9.8 petzl and it seems to hold up well with some fuzz (better then the 10.2 petzl's) but he babies his ropes.

If i can find a deal on the blue water 9.7 i'll give it a try next time.


HappinessIsWinning


Oct 20, 2008, 5:42 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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The only thing I don't like about the Sterling Nitro is the UIAA fall rating (only 5).

LOL, this is what MooseJaw had this to say about it:

Strong enough for a man, but built for a woman, hence originally dubbed "the chick rope."

Tongue


monkeychild


Oct 20, 2008, 11:23 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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I have the Petzl Nomad - I've been using it for about 6 months, once or twice a week, and it still looks new. Very minimal fuzz, still supple - it's taken zillions of falls, a few exceptionally huge falls. I know some people are having problems with the petzl 10.2, but i love my rope.


vegastradguy


Oct 21, 2008, 6:26 PM
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Re: [hersheygear88] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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hersheygear88 wrote:
My nomad is going strong after two moderate seasons of lead. Still supple enough to cuddle with at night too. My buddy has a Sterling Velocity that's been through three HARD seasons now and doing pretty well (real fuzzy though). I think either of the above is a solid buy (I got my rope pro-dealed for $99 :D)

my velocity lasted almost two years before rockfall claimed it probably at least a year before it was due for retirement.

my lightning pro lasted two years before i retired it.

i probably put the velocity through a fair bit more abuse (probably at least 100 more pitches on it), though.

the mammut infinity is also a fairly nice line- its supposedly thinner at 9.5mm, but its always felt and wore more like a 9.8mm. (its visibly thicker than my Ion, which is also 9.5mm).


SofCookay


Oct 21, 2008, 6:56 PM
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Re: [superbum] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Sterling has two 9.8mm ropes - the Velocity and the Nitro. I have used them both and I would say the Velocity takes the most abuse, but will still perform well. The Nitro is a really nice, smooth, flexible rope, good hand, nice catch, but the Velocity is all that plus will last you longer.

Good luck!


wallmonkey35


Oct 21, 2008, 7:12 PM
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Re: [SofCookay] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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Another vote for the Sterling Velocity


ddansby1


Oct 21, 2008, 7:54 PM
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Re: [wallmonkey35] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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My vote is for Sterling. I've had a few other brands; none compare. Stay away from Petzl Nomad doesn't last.


flatlanderAB


Oct 26, 2008, 4:40 AM
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I am very happy with my petzl nomad. I wish i had bought the 70 meter rather than the 60 though.


ptrendler


Oct 29, 2008, 9:48 PM
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Re: [flatlanderAB] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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i got the monster 9.8 60m rope last week, and while it has only seen about twelve pitches, there is a fair amount of short fuzz down the whole rope. overall i have been way stoked on this rope, but has anyone else seen their rope fuzz up that quick?


irregularpanda


Oct 29, 2008, 9:50 PM
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Re: [ryanb] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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ryanb wrote:

I have the 9.8 monster, got in on sale for $120/70m. It is fine but is getting fuzzy fast near one end. I haven't noticed sheath slippage but that might be a usage pattern thing.

Yes, mine fuzzes up also. I don't really care about that so much. The sheath slippage I notice on rappels when I use an autoblock.


andygravity


Oct 29, 2008, 11:05 PM
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Re: [HappinessIsWinning] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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HappinessIsWinning wrote:
Does anyone have any opinions about the Petzl Nomad or the Maxim Glider 9.8mm?

I have a 9.8mm Glider and have been really happy with it. Good feel and it has been pretty durable. Although I haven't climbed on it exclusively, it's a couple of years old and is still in pretty good shape.


zaphod777


Oct 30, 2008, 5:32 AM
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I love my nomad it's the best rope i have gotten so far.

it also doesn't kink up much at all.


rtwilli4


Nov 4, 2008, 6:22 PM
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Re: [HappinessIsWinning] best 9.8mm rope? [In reply to]
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HappinessIsWinning wrote:
Does anyone have any opinions about the Petzl Nomad or the Maxim Glider 9.8mm?

The Petzl Nomad is a descent rope. It seems to hold up pretty well but the sheath does get a little fuzzy after a few months (4 days a week). In my experience it gets kinked and twisted pretty easily. I have seen more than one that have had the sheath twisted around the core.

Maxim Glider (and all Maxim Ropes) is a great one. Really tightly woven sheath, great handling, durable, doesn't get snagged, minimal rope drag, all the good stuff.

I have never climbed on a Sterling 9.8 but I love all the Sterlings I have climbed on. Great handling, light, dry dry, and hold up to all kinds of abuse.

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