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medicus
Nov 13, 2007, 8:03 AM
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I heard recently that there was a ground fall on the route Crimp Scampi. Apparently the guy forgot to anchor himself in before untying his rope at the very top of the climb, but I'm not sure that is what happened. I also heard that the guy is alive, but he suffered some injuries. Does anyone have any details?
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medicus
Nov 25, 2007, 6:30 AM
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anyone?
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kane_schutzman
Nov 26, 2007, 12:44 AM
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Do you know when it would have happend? I was there yesterday and did not see anything on the ground...
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medicus
Nov 26, 2007, 2:18 AM
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It happened the weekend before I posted that... I think potentially on the 11th. I've heard they were trying to keep it quiet, and HCR had started enforcing the "sign these release waivers" because of it. But that's all the details I really know. I'm hoping the (I heard it was a guy...) guy is okay, but haven't heard a single thing about it.
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rogue10186
Nov 29, 2007, 5:24 AM
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I hope this doesn't affect access in any way, I doubt it would, but I really love HCR...
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medicus
Nov 29, 2007, 5:47 AM
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I don't think it is going to from what I have heard. The only thing that has resulted (again, from what I have heard) is they enforce the signing of waivers strictly now.
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phoenixson
Jan 15, 2008, 5:35 AM
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This is true, I was climbing Newton County Mentality when it happened and a friend of mine was climbing one of the easy 5.7s around the corner from Crimp Scampi. I can't recall the exact date but I remember it was some time in late fall. from what I remember the incident involved a 19 year old climbing with 3-4 friends. The kid got to the top of the route and from the accounts of his friends he did not clip into the anchors correctly. When he yelled 'take' to be lowered off the climb he fell directly to the ground landing on one of his friends. We all heard the climber scream as he fell, and then scream again when he hit the ground. From what I saw the climber had smashed most of his front teeth out but didn't appear to be seriously injured, his friend apparently cushioned the fall quite a bit for him. About 45 minutes later an ambulance arrived at HCR and the paramedics began strapping him to a board. About 45mins after that a helicopter landed somewhere in the valley and the climber was carried down and taken away. After it was over my friend volunteered to clean the group's draws from the route and from the account that I heard the climber walked out of the hospital that night. As a side note. this incident happened during late fall when swarms of Asian lady-bugs gather on the bluffs in the area. The bugs are very distracting because they actually bite and I believe they caused the climber to become distracted at the anchor and make his error.
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medicus
Jan 15, 2008, 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the account of what happened. I went climbing there around 2 weeks ago, and nothing seemed to have change. I hadn't noticed the bugs, but can see how that could cause an incident like that.
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reg
Jan 15, 2008, 1:30 PM
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phoenixson wrote: The kid got to the top of the route and from the accounts of his friends he did not clip into the anchors correctly. When he yelled 'take' to be lowered off the climb he fell directly to the ground landing on one of his friends. ................The bugs are very distracting because they actually bite and I believe they caused the climber to become distracted at the anchor and make his error. i am glad they are ok - but several questions arise: if they were sport/trad climbing, why didn't their last piece catch them? was there a lack of communication that led the belayer to remove the belay? did they un-tie from the rope? just curious
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phoenixson
Jan 16, 2008, 1:43 AM
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In reply to: I should start by saying that I forgot to mention that the climber was top-roping the route. The rope he was on was running through draws and from what I understand he unclipped them as he climbed. When he got to the anchors, he clipped himself to the bolts and untied from the rope with the intention of running the rope through the anchors instead of the draws. My guess is that at this point the got distracted, possibly by the bugs, and simply didn't run the rope back through anything. Thinking he had he unclipped the draw that was holding him to the anchor and then fell to the ground.
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reg
Jan 16, 2008, 1:06 PM
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thanks - wow - another example of our need to stay vigillant.
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Lexi
Jan 25, 2008, 10:44 PM
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Anyone know what happened to the guy the other one fell on? That's about a 55' free-fall. alx
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bostonsox311
Nov 23, 2008, 7:41 AM
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I just heard that this news is on several websites. Im the guy who fell. All the info is fairly accurate. As far as my friend. I didnt fall directly on him. I fell right next to him and he got the rest of my momentum. He just had a bruise on his thigh. This was my first sport climb, before hand i had only bouldered. To be honest I shouldnt have been doing that, I had just learned my knots 5 mins before hand and didnt fully understand the process. It would usually be common sense but stuff happens. I Ended up not losing my teeth but they were forced up through my maxilla and into my nose. 30 something fractures all together but nothing permanent. I got a full recovery and back up to climbing V7s in a few months. But this is weird, I did not know about all this
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bostonsox311
Nov 23, 2008, 7:44 AM
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and it was on november 3rd of last year.
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blondgecko
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Nov 23, 2008, 10:13 PM
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Moved from Injury Prevention and Treatment to Accident and Incident Analysis.
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j_ung
Nov 24, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Glad you're okay, bosox. This is one of those things that makes me cringe whenever I see it at the crag -- a relatively inexperienced person tapped by his party to clean the anchor, as throngs shout instructions from 50' below. It ain't rocket science, but if you've never done it before, it might as well be. Edit: Typos
(This post was edited by j_ung on Nov 24, 2008, 10:42 PM)
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Valarc
Nov 24, 2008, 5:47 PM
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I agree big time with Jay here - I'm glad you're ok after taking a nasty fall, this kind of situation scares the crap out of me when I see it at a crag. I've seen far too many climbing groups going out, teaching people to do stuff minutes beforehand, jumping on the sharp end with no training and no business being on the rock. I'm glad that bosox realizes that he wasn't prepared for what he was about to do, but the scary thing is that the people he was climbing with put him into that situation in the first place. I've actively avoided climbing with any sort of group for this very reason, people get complacent and you end up with throngs of the blind leading the blind. It's even lead to me avoiding popular crags, because I don't want to deal with the emotional trauma it's going to cause me to witness another nasty fall that results in broken bones or worse - I'm hella squeamish about that kind of stuff. Again, I'm glad you're recovered and back to pulling down hard, and hope some folks will learn from your accident and stop and think before they throw someone into a situation unprepared.
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