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johnwesely
Dec 1, 2008, 2:06 PM
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http://picasaweb.google.com/...#5274665610686040418
I was wondering if you guys could tell me if I was on the right track??? Sorry there are not pictures in the thread but the images are too big for RC.com. I will post results of the pull test later today or tomorrow.
Edit: Make predictions.
Edit #2: There are eight images in the album.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Dec 1, 2008, 2:08 PM)
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coastal_climber
Dec 1, 2008, 2:21 PM
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Don't clip the stem of the cams with biners, it makes them weaker - just use the sewn sling.
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 1, 2008, 2:27 PM
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johnwesely wrote: http://picasaweb.google.com/...#5274665610686040418 I was wondering if you guys could tell me if I was on the right track??? Sorry there are not pictures in the thread but the images are too big for RC.com. I will post results of the pull test later today or tomorrow. Edit: Make predictions. Edit #2: There are eight images in the album.
Right track for what? To get your cat off the roof? I can't believe that the spaces between the bricks are deep enough to make any of those placements good. It does not matter how much you equalize shitty placements. They are still shitty placements. My prediction? You pull on that with your hand and the whole thing comes down.
Josh
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swaghole
Dec 1, 2008, 3:02 PM
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johnwesely wrote: http://picasaweb.google.com/...#5274665610686040418 I was wondering if you guys could tell me if I was on the right track??? Sorry there are not pictures in the thread but the images are too big for RC.com. I will post results of the pull test later today or tomorrow. Edit: Make predictions. Edit #2: There are eight images in the album.
Looks bomber to me. I'd hang my BBQ on that anchor.
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dan2see
Dec 1, 2008, 3:24 PM
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It's fun to play with your gear. You can imagine scenarios and play with rigs to use them. "Hands on" is always useful.
But your brick wall is not a rock wall. So play for awhile, then get out to some crag somewhere, and try your skills on real rock. It won't be the same, and you'll know why.
You'll be ahead of the guy who simply buys shiney gear and sticks it anywhere.
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johnwesely
Dec 1, 2008, 3:29 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: Don't clip the stem of the cams with biners, it makes them weaker - just use the sewn sling.
I will be serious for a second here and ask a question.
Why is this?
Thank you.
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johnwesely
Dec 1, 2008, 3:33 PM
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dan2see wrote: It's fun to play with your gear. You can imagine scenarios and play with rigs to use them. "Hands on" is always useful. But your brick wall is not a rock wall. So play for awhile, then get out to some crag somewhere, and try your skills on real rock. It won't be the same, and you'll know why. You'll be ahead of the guy who simply buys shiney gear and sticks it anywhere.
I know its not a real wall. I was home for thanksgiving and got bored because of the bad weather and wanted to see how many pieces of gear I could get to stay in the brick wall of my parents house.
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johnwesely
Dec 1, 2008, 3:36 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: http://picasaweb.google.com/...#5274665610686040418 I was wondering if you guys could tell me if I was on the right track??? Sorry there are not pictures in the thread but the images are too big for RC.com. I will post results of the pull test later today or tomorrow. Edit: Make predictions. Edit #2: There are eight images in the album. Right track for what? To get your cat off the roof? I can't believe that the spaces between the bricks are deep enough to make any of those placements good. It does not matter how much you equalize shitty placements. They are still shitty placements. My prediction? You pull on that with your hand and the whole thing comes down. Josh
I was suprised that it held placements too, and I wanted to see if I got enough placements if they would hold body weight.
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moose_droppings
Dec 1, 2008, 4:02 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Right track for what? To get your cat off the roof? I can't believe that the spaces between the bricks are deep enough to make any of those placements good. It does not matter how much you equalize shitty placements. They are still shitty placements. My prediction? You pull on that with your hand and the whole thing comes down. Josh
I use to practice aid climbing on my brick wall downstairs in my house a lot. I had 3 anchors spaced out across the wall to clip to in case my hook or something blew I wouldn't come down and sprain, break something or tumble backwards into the TV or lamp. All the anchors were set so that I would end up just off the floor, so no matter where I went on the wall I was protected. All the anchors were constructed of #3, #4, or #5 nuts since that was all that would slide into the variable spaces between the bricks and configured into what some call a moosellette. I was attached to the anchor via a one foot dyneema sling that was clipped to my homemade belay loop of one inch webbing on an old harness.. While practicing doing different things, my dyneema sling was slightly pulling up on the anchor. Several times a piece would pop on me and I'd take a FF2 right on to the anchor and not once did a piece from the anchor pop. Of those several falls, only one left me with a sore kidney for a day or so. There is a lot of dynamic properties to your body and the give of my harness as it slid up my ass that makes a short fall like this less than static.
Between the equalizing properties of the mooselette and the somewhat dynamic catch, the brick turned out to be a bomber anchor every time.
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altelis
Dec 1, 2008, 4:10 PM
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truck!
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epoch
Moderator
Dec 1, 2008, 8:47 PM
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Moved thread from General to Trad Climbing.
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epoch
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Dec 1, 2008, 8:48 PM
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Although, I don't know if I would ever encounter this particular set up IRL.
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johnwesely
Dec 1, 2008, 8:59 PM
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epoch wrote: Moved thread from General to Trad Climbing.
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shimanilami
Dec 1, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Looks bomber to me. I suggest you try a rope jump off the top of your roof to really check it out.
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basilisk
Dec 8, 2008, 3:49 AM
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johnwesely wrote: I wanted to see if I got enough placements if they would hold body weight.
....and?
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johnwesely
Dec 8, 2008, 4:00 AM
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Sorry about the late reply, I have been without internet for a little while. anyways...
The Anchor fared far better than I expected. It took at least five vigourous bounces before the two cams blew simultaneously. I reset the anchor without the cams and after a few more bounces the tricam, a hex, and one of the nuts blew leaving the small hex, small nut, tech nut, and maybe one more piece that seemed fairly solid and did not come out from further testing. I was shocked that the cams did not come out sooner though because by themselves I would say that they hold less than ten pounds. The Tech nut was probably the most solid piece followed by the smallest nut and hex.
I must be the worst troll/joke thread starter ever judging by the responses to my thread, but I am surprised that no one noted that my anchor had awful extension problems.
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thatguyat99
Dec 8, 2008, 6:14 PM
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Note:
Your anchor had awful extension problems.
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kennoyce
Dec 8, 2008, 6:58 PM
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In reply to: coastal_climber wrote:Don't clip the stem of the cams with biners, it makes them weaker - just use the sewn sling. I will be serious for a second here and ask a question. Why is this? Thank you.
This makes the cams weaker because the biner causes the wire of the stem to bend much more than a sling does since the sling distributes the load over a larger section of the wire. I think BD did a test and found that clipping dirrectly into the wire reduced the strength by like 40%. I could be wrong on the number, but I know that it does reduce the strength.
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johnwesely
Dec 8, 2008, 7:05 PM
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kennoyce wrote: In reply to: coastal_climber wrote:Don't clip the stem of the cams with biners, it makes them weaker - just use the sewn sling. I will be serious for a second here and ask a question. Why is this? Thank you. This makes the cams weaker because the biner causes the wire of the stem to bend much more than a sling does since the sling distributes the load over a larger section of the wire. I think BD did a test and found that clipping dirrectly into the wire reduced the strength by like 40%. I could be wrong on the number, but I know that it does reduce the strength.
That makes sense.
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yokese
Dec 8, 2008, 7:11 PM
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Time to buy a new camera... with autofocus, if possible. 
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