I have a web-o-lette, cordollette, alpine equalizer and I find that I always go with a double legth runner and some of the dental floss BD or Mammut runners, for either trad or sport. The times my gear was spaced out farther apart I've gone with a 20 foot cordellete.
I generally use a web-o-death for multipitch trad anchors because it's fast and easy, and I make sure all my pieces are bomber, so I don't worry about the non equalization of the web-o-let. I also will just use slings on occasion.
Sorry no photos i dont even have a camera, and i just get tired of ppls sarcastic answers its not really worth them posting because no one wants to read them but i guess the is a RC.com forum-
So that's a slung flake which then had a cam placed behind it serving to pry it off the wall as it's weighted. Interesting selection, I'm surprised majid hasn't commented. I realize a .1 isn't going to pry much but sometimes a couple mm is all it takes.
I find it easier than the equalette cuz the clip-in point is simpler, there's no fucking around with sliding x's. it's more complicated to tie than the cordlette, but you don't need pre-tied double fisherman's knots.
but sometimes it's simpler to tie in with the rope too.
Sorry no photos i dont even have a camera, and i just get tired of ppls sarcastic answers its not really worth them posting because no one wants to read them but i guess the is a RC.com forum-
I am very interested to see how you rig your anchor and personally do not care what other people say about you or your post. I think you are a valuable contributor to this climbing community and we could defiantly benefit from your experience. See if you could barrow a camera from a friend or something and post a photo of your setup.
So that's a slung flake which then had a cam placed behind it serving to pry it off the wall as it's weighted. Interesting selection, I'm surprised majid hasn't commented. I realize a .1 isn't going to pry much but sometimes a couple mm is all it takes.
no i hear you, it looks like its part of the flake but really it was in a section of the crack on the right wall.. its tough to describe, but it wasn't in a position where it would be pushing on the flake.
i used dynamic chord so used longer legs for the not so good pieces and shorter legs for the good ones. [notice the blue static sling clipped to the flake]
knieveltech wrote:
1. that shit isn't equalized worth a damn
2. it would be if you'd used an equalette
3. have a nice day
acctually it was equalized perfectly if you take into acount which were the best pieces. plus i seem to recall having my ass wedged inside a wide crack..
i acctually lowered off the anchor to clean a piece at the base of the pitch.
the two short strands of green/yellow chord were the most bomber pieces, the others were suplimentary.
Read the guidebook for the "route" it says, "dangerously broken rock, not recomended" IMO that's a great anchor under the circumstances...
cause talkin shit [about a situation you didn't see for yourself cause you're on the internet] is dangerous in person. [image]http://forum.cheatengine.org/files/ethug_572.jpg[/image]
Your reply would be a witty burn if any of it was actually valid. Move the MP of a cordalette an eighth of an inch off of plumb from the direction it was tied for and you're weighting a single piece. This isn't opinion. This isn't random conjecture. This is fact based on controlled testing. Even in ideal lab conditions a cordolette offers crap equalization unless the arms are identical in length (obviously not the case from your picture). Ergo, the anchor pictured is poorly equalized. Carry on.
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