|
melonhead
Jun 19, 2002, 7:55 PM
Post #1 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
|
Hey All,
Just curious to see what shoes ya'll like for aid climbing, mixed with free moves. I would like to find a good pair of rock shoes that won't bother me while stepping in my aiders. I would like to know for the sake of saving time while on lead. With just one pair of shoes on I can move a lot faster. Ya know? I have used nice sticky approch 5-ten shoes (sometimes scary), but would like get beta on a rock shoe. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Jun 19, 2002, 8:14 PM
Post #2 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
5.10 Guide almighty works well for me
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Jun 19, 2002, 8:39 PM
Post #3 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
Depend's on what you are climbing.On the big wall the 5.10s seem to come apart in a short time.(jugging)I try not to flail the tips of my shoes on the wall,that helps.Also sometimes I turn them in or out on the sides.Who makes the most durable shoe for jugging and free climbing?I don't know,heard that Boreal makes a wall boot called the fire?I could not find it on there web site.Any suggestions?
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Jun 19, 2002, 11:17 PM
Post #4 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
I have been using tennis shoes lately. They work pretty good. They aren't as comfortable as my Lasportiva Hyper guides put they are really lite and I like that. They also work better for free moves.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Jun 19, 2002, 11:36 PM
Post #5 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
I have a pair of Scarpa Freneys that are awesome as wall shoes. They have a fiberglass midsole, making them suitable for crampons (trans. you can still step in the aider if it moves from your arch to your toe). The Freneys were also really, really nice for approach and descent deathmarches. The sole is a bit hard for pure friction moves, but they are probably the best free-climbing boots around (according to the reviews). And they only cost about $300! I got mine slightly used for about $100 from eBay. Scarpa also makes a very similar, but lighter-duty boot they call the El Capitan or Mescalito.
|
|
|
|
|
nabisco
Jun 20, 2002, 2:54 AM
Post #6 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2001
Posts: 38
|
I've been using the Boreal flyer for the last few years, they have really worn nicely. They are real nice for stepping out of the aiders, but not quite as stiff as I'd like. My next pair will be the salomon sticky's http://www.backcountrystore.com/salomonprostickylow-mens.htm I really like the lacing( all the way down the toe). hav'nt tried them on yet. THey look bad to the bone. Anyone tried them yet???
|
|
|
|
|
farmerc
Jun 20, 2002, 4:43 AM
Post #7 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2002
Posts: 184
|
Combat boots: no really, combat boots with some sticky rubber from a resole kit on the fore-foot. THey are nice and stiff, and as for free climbing in them, i can edge well in them, bet front-pointing (on rock that is) ain't easy. I guess they would be nice for standing in aiders
|
|
|
|
|
mrhardgrit
Jun 20, 2002, 12:46 PM
Post #8 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 153
|
Salamon X-hiking (or is X-treme?) approahc type shoes are the absolute business...!!
I've aided and jugged 100+ pitches in them, walked a hell of a lot of miles and all sorts of other shenanegans! And, they're really not worn at all - I've had them for a couple of years and they will hopefully go a few more. Best buy in years...
|
|
|
|
|
glockaroo
Jun 20, 2002, 3:40 PM
Post #9 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
My experience is that on vertical to overhanging rock, aiding in rock shoes is fine as long as they're not too tight. Use a rock shoe that's board lasted for a bit more support.
On anything less than vertical terrain, my arches get destroyed by aiding in rock shoes. I got some nerve damage in one foot while on the Salathe wearing only rock shoes. But even if you can handle doing all your aid in rock shoes you need something else for the approach/descent so you might as well get a shoe that is engineered for the task.
My current favorite approach/aid shoe is the new style Garmont Sticky Weekend. The toe rand has a lot more coverage now. The lacing is asymmetric and goes down right over the big toe for enhanced edging when you need it. They already have sticky rubber on them that is smooth under the big toe area for edging but lugged elsewhere for good traction on the approach/descent. The thickness of the midsole tapers to a thinner area under the big toe for enhanced sensitivity. They have clip-in loops for use at the bivy. The midsole is very supportive for long stints in the aiders. And they are constructed much sturdier than any running shoe, models like the Sportiva Boulder or the deplorable 5.10 designs. They are probably too heavy for in-a-day speed routes but I feel they're just the ticket for full-on suffer mode walling.
I got them from the local Garmont dealer for $99. This is full retail but you get a lot of shoe for your money.
The Salamon Stickys mentioned above by nabisco look to be very similar to the Garmonts and could be a good choice as well. The deciding factor there would probably be how well each design fits your particular foot shape.
[ This Message was edited by: glockaroo on 2002-06-20 08:51 ]
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
Jun 22, 2002, 5:09 AM
Post #10 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
I found a pair of five-ten echos, they have the same sole as the el cap but are more of a hiking boot, They edge well and are good for up to 5.8 climbing (but then that's about all I'm good for anymore). I got them on closeout from sierratradingpost.com
for under twentyfive bucks and since there was a shipping snafu they paid for the shipping!
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Jun 22, 2002, 5:27 AM
Post #11 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Ask Dr. Piton about carrying loads to the base of El Cap when the approach trail was a trout stream. My feet stayed dry in my Freneys, but he suffered in his approach shoes.
I will admit to two blisters after my Ordeal: one each in the same place on my fourth toes of each foot. No where else. My althlete's foot trauma was from showering in the Employee's Place without the usual Plastigard socks. My bad.
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Jun 22, 2002, 8:30 AM
Post #12 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
Last year I was staying at a gite(youth hostel style) in Chamonix,got some international fungus on me feets!!(my guess,south korean)Then when I got back to St.Louis,I went straight down to northwest Arkansas,(high quality climbing!!!)and got poison ivy on top of the fungus,creating what I think might have been a cure for cancer!!! R
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Jun 22, 2002, 8:37 AM
Post #13 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
Apollodorus-----Did the DR. play lots of ACDC?--And did he show u (for lack of a better term)Chongo's stove bucket???
|
|
|
|
|
gunked
Jun 25, 2002, 3:19 AM
Post #14 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615
|
I have been using my La Sportiva Boulder high-tops forn a few years now and they rock. The key is to send them to Marmot Mountain Works resolers and get "wall armor" put on them. (Basically, a glorified toe-cap) I used them for the first time about a month ago on Zodiac after a new half-sole and for the first time. They look like they we're hardly used. I used them for aid and free. Without the wall-armor, they WILL delaminate!
My partner used 5.10 guide almighty's ,right oiut of the box, and his toes were exposed by the third pitch. They SUCK ASS is being kind. It's amazing how poorly oe can free climb with duct-taped feet.
Anyway, there you go. One shoe that does it all is the Boulder's with the wall-armor. Approach and descent too!
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Jun 25, 2002, 6:53 AM
Post #15 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
I have been disappointed with the durability of my 5.10 El Caps.
While they are a bitchin' shoe, they really don't last very well. They need to be retreaded after every wall.
Evidently Charles Cole is a lot more durable than his shoes.
Yes, when making the approach up the Nose trail, which has turned into a trout stream, plastic boots rock!
And no, Rich, I didn't have Chongo's "kitchenette" - I made my own hanging stove out of an aluminum pot with a hole drilled through the bottom.
Starbuck's French roast.
I like my coffee like I like my men - hot, strong and black!
{kiss kiss}
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
Jun 26, 2002, 2:11 PM
Post #16 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
I use the Garmont Sticky weekends, they suck and I will not buy them again. They are holding up well, but they are as stiff as a sheet of ply wood, just not for me!
|
|
|
|
|
danl
Nov 8, 2002, 7:17 PM
Post #17 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 288
|
Sportiva Baltaro
|
|
|
|
|
joebuzz
Nov 8, 2002, 8:14 PM
Post #18 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2002
Posts: 107
|
I've been in the La Sportiva "Trango Plus" for a few years now and absolutely love em'. They've been good on walls, lots of alpine ice (40-60 deg.), and backcountry free climbs. I carried my rock shoes up Mt. Whitney but lead the entire climb in my Trango's. They RULE!!
|
|
|
|
|
kindredlion
Nov 8, 2002, 8:37 PM
Post #19 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2002
Posts: 146
|
I agree with JoeBuzz
I have the same booots and they,
for emphasis ... ROCK!!
Mine were a LOT cheaper than this but...
Take Air,
Adam
____________________________________________
Out of spite... (and spelling)
[ This Message was edited by: kindredlion on 2002-11-08 12:46 ]
|
|
|
|
|
kungfuclimber
Nov 8, 2002, 10:26 PM
Post #20 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162
|
After my experience with long aid (12 hrs a day for 3 days) I can tell you that the next pair of shoes I get will be very stiff. Probably steel shanked. By the end of those three days I lost all sensation in my first three toes on each foot (big toe and others). I was wearing some 5.10 approach shoe I got for cheap.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 8, 2002, 10:57 PM
Post #21 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
If you are doing a lot of mixed free and aid, I find it good to wear stiff and large free climbing shoes. I have a pair of Boreal Aces that are bigger than my normal free shoes. I wear sox with them and they work well for mixing it up on a pitch. Usually I use these for single day routes(Moonlight,southface of the column Etc.) I would rather use the Boreal Ballet as they're the same shoe only high top. Also I would reccomend Resoling with stealth rubber because it has better friction. On Long walls I use Baltoro's from La sportiva they are ok.
|
|
|
|
|
eurobiner
Nov 13, 2002, 8:49 PM
Post #22 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 15, 2002
Posts: 9
|
Sportiva has a great selection for wall boots and all around use! I have a pair of sportiva baltoros that I recently resoled with c-4 rubber and a double toe rand and they are tha shiezter!! they also make a version of the mega free shoe with a burly sole which is called the mega dru. I have also seen some nice boots by a company called kayland.
|
|
|
|
|
bigdan
Nov 13, 2002, 11:56 PM
Post #23 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 142
|
if i had more money, i'd get better shoes. but usually i'd rather spend it on a trip, or more rack, or something crucial. so for now, and until i'm rich, i just wear some old soft nike running shoes that are leftovers from high school lacrosse.
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Nov 15, 2002, 4:41 PM
Post #24 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
So having not really done any aid, but considering getting into it.... how much aid is too much to do it in rock shoes? I mean, it would seem like a few aid moves here or there amongst a mostly free route would not be a big deal in rock shoes, but if I had to go a full rope length of aid, that might well suck. Any comments? Is 100' too much? 50'?
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Nov 15, 2002, 5:12 PM
Post #25 of 25
(5734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
Tradguy, it kind of depends on how comfortable your climbing shoes are. Only your feet can answer that question. Every pitch is different. If a 150' pitch involves 75' of aid and 75' of free. You have to first decide which is less appealing. Doing the aid with your free shoes or doing the free with your aid shoes. I tend to keep my aid shoes on as much as possible. I figure I am already pretty miserable there is no reason to add to the misery by putting painful free climbing shoes. Switching shoes mid-pitch sucks. I usually make the decision on a pitch by pitch basis. I'll wear the aid shoes unless I think I will need the free shoes more on that particular pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
|
