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grigrigirl78
Nov 16, 2002, 7:29 PM
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hey as long as it gets you up the mountain it's all good. I've got an amazing climbing partner who is also an instructor and I've seen him use his knees, head and whatever else, and I believe I've used my head but not purposely
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esimhs99
Nov 16, 2002, 7:40 PM
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you arent really supposed to use your knees, but to each his own!
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moeman
Nov 16, 2002, 7:58 PM
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I've got a firend who took the saying "use your head" to literally. He will ocaionaly pull off a head jam on offwidth routes
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climbingpride
Nov 16, 2002, 8:15 PM
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*laughes at all the funny postions your partners get into.
*see's that guy shoveing his head in a crack.
I know i've caught myself laughing at my partnera few times when he has either contorted himself or just plain looked stupid.
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qacwac
Nov 16, 2002, 8:39 PM
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Knees are great for knee bars and can really take some weight off your arms. (even get no hands rest) You can also use a knee hook somewhat like a heel hook if the hold is big enough and to close to be used as a heel hook.
Also using your forearms on a ledge or something can allow you to relax your grip and use your arms more. Not always ideal but if your grip is about to fail it can save the day.
[ This Message was edited by: qacwac on 2002-11-16 12:42 ]
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stevematthys
Nov 16, 2002, 8:47 PM
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yea, my friend (spraky) once pulled off a body jam, and got stuck. haha good times.
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ajkclay
Nov 17, 2002, 4:22 AM
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My friend and I found this route at the Arapiles that you just could not finish, unless you used a head-jam we called it "weird."
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nikegirl
Nov 17, 2002, 4:33 AM
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I constantly get "style" points for my wacky contortions!!
I've use my butt in corners...
shoulder jams* entire shoulders holding me at rest...
heheh
T
[ This Message was edited by: nikegirl on 2002-11-16 21:11 ]
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beercanclimber
Nov 17, 2002, 4:37 AM
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that could be fun to see.
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duskerhu
Nov 17, 2002, 5:00 AM
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I think it'd be more fun to see her use the other side...
Well, (insert body part here)-bars are all good... Putting your kneecap down on a ledge while trying to attain that ledge, that's somewhat questionable...
We always call out Illegal Knee Hold!!! when we see it... Unless the climber is on a particularly scary part of a lead...
Heck, I've got a partner (uh hHuMmmLesCough) that's been known to use an occasional "cheek" hold (yeah, that cheek) on a route known as Frequent Flatulence. You can guess how the route got its name.
If you need the knee, use it, but I guess it would be in better "style" to not use it...
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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orangekyak
Nov 17, 2002, 5:56 AM
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I have to call BS on like half of you. EVERYBODY scums a knee every now and then. Forehead smears, knee scums, all offwidth technique ... these are the redheaded step children of gaston, heel hook and flagging. They're as much a part of climbing, and closely related to, pooping in a tube, peeing in a bottle, and sponge baths in public restrooms. You might not be proud of it but don't pretend you don't do it.
Jeremy
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fo_d
Nov 17, 2002, 6:04 AM
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I've heard that knees are bad form but
I cant see how they are dangerous, I consider the head jamb to be fair game and have used my head at least several times. I have used a butt cheek too,
Les
ooops, I see Dann already mentioned the cheek hold
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-11-16 22:09 ]
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froman
Nov 17, 2002, 6:18 AM
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i have a friend who's used every part of his body - he's wedged his groin on a boulder prob, he's used his lower back, his ass, the point of his elbow, his chin, i think i even saw him bite a hold once. let's just say he's very unique and individual in his technique
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brianthew
Nov 17, 2002, 6:43 AM
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I saw I guy stick his chin into a pocket to get a no hands rest.
And ever since I've been searching for an opportunity to do the same.
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beethovenboy
Nov 17, 2002, 7:09 AM
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Dude, I've pioneered the full body mantel, AKA belly roll, AKA beached whale lift, hahaha,
Spiral out...
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slcliffdiver
Nov 18, 2002, 10:16 PM
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I consistantly practice using parts of my arm other than my hands. The most useful I've found (with horns mostly) are hooking the bone one either side of the wrist and base of the thumb. It allows me to recover better. Forarms are good sometimes also though. In the gym or top-roping often I'll try whatever I think will work that prevents me from having to grab the rock to learn new ways to rest my hands. On lead I'm more conservative with experimenting but still do what I can to rest my hands and arms as long as I feel secure.
For gaining ledges with knees I think it's a good idea to learn and use alternatives as much as possible. In general working up higher and doing a highstep or mantling and rocking over a foot may take more practice and be more balancy but are often more secure if done well. The problems with gaining ledges with knees are; climbing shoes have better friction so you're more likely to smear off than if you can use your feet well, standing up is less efficient and often a lot more of a problem if you mount a ledge with a knee, you could be mistaken for a caver;) That much said I think I may still pop a knee up infrequently if I think it'll work better on lead but it's become less frequent the longer I've climbed.
I experiment with using other body parts as well people mentioned a lot of good techniques, knee; scums, hooks (love em when I can find them) and bars included. You can get no hands rests periodicaly if you're creative and sometimes solve problems this way that you wouldn't be able to send otherwise. Besides it's fun:)
Peace
David
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