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dingus
Jan 6, 2009, 12:18 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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keep_it_real wrote: I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said: Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info. This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc). It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for any style of climbing/mountaineering use.
^^^^^^
How to make an 'angry' man laugh out loud....
DMT
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shimanilami
Jan 6, 2009, 12:42 AM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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currupt4130 wrote: angry wrote: A sport draw has a special coating to resist galvanic corrosion with the bolt. Likewise, that is why there is a rubber ring inside the sport draw. To protect the webbing from this coating. A trad draw does not have this rubber ring or coating. It saves a lot of weight but really shouldn't be attached to a bolt for this reason. So is that why the biners I scavenged from some quick draws are eating through my slings? I've already had two slings melt through, and they both had biners from a quickdraw on them.
Dude, that's why you triple over trad draws. It provides redundancy in case one strand breaks.
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tradrenn
Jan 7, 2009, 9:20 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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granite_grrl wrote: tradrenn wrote: Instead of dogbones try using 1 foot slings and still use the rubber thingy on rope end of your draw. I find it to be working quite well on gear and bolts. You don't often need draws that long when you're sport climbing, but there are sport routes where it does help to have one or two like that.
That would depend on how often one sport climbs vs how often one trad climbs, wouldn't it ?
Edit: This thread is just getting better and better.
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jan 7, 2009, 9:22 PM)
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ltj999
Jan 7, 2009, 9:24 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Oct 25, 2006
Posts: 57
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I keep 3 or 4 sport draws on my rack, I find they come in handy from time to time for clipping pins, or the occasional bolt.. no harm done :)
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moof
Jan 8, 2009, 10:20 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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To get back to being slightly serious...
If you're mixing your "sport" draws into your trad rack, inspect them for dings and burrs first. When trad climbing it's pretty darn common to clip and go, totally ignoring the rope end versus the bolt end. As a result of this, it sucks to fuzz up your rope on a burr left from your recent sport whips.
Buff out any burrs with some emery paper, or keep those gauged/burred biners on the sport racklet.
For the record, I carry roughly a half dozen "sport" draws, half dozen 12" draws (some doubled), and a half dozen "trad" tripled draws when climbing. Depending on the route I will usually leave a few in the pack, and occasionally bring a screamer or two for pins and thin nuts.
Sport climbing is neither.
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angry
Jan 13, 2009, 3:55 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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keep_it_real wrote: I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said: Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info. This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc). It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for any style of climbing/mountaineering use.
Oh sweet jesus that's awesome!!
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billcoe_
Jan 13, 2009, 5:40 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Ask Angry about the need for a "Trad" Chalkbag instead of a "Sport" chalkbag. I have had mine save my ass at least twice cause I had it instead of the "Sport" Chalkbag.
I had it out just the other day was was damn fortunate too. Here it was the other day I'm following a route, it's the powder puff blue baby on my right side. My freind said it was 31 degrees back in town when He went through at 11:30 am but it may have hit 40 something although it just seemed cold. The inside of the crack was wet too. 
ps, I saw Moof out there same day soloing. Helped him carry ropes in and later saw him @ just30 feet left and maybe 300+ more feet up or so. He was but a small spec in the sky. Wish I had a picture of him to post.
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Jan 13, 2009, 5:46 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 13, 2009, 3:17 PM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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keep_it_real wrote: I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said: Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info. This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc). It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for any style of climbing/mountaineering use.
Sorry, keep_it_real, but where I'm from, they call that being "duped!"
Angry has a bad habit of saying rediculous nonsense and not putting a  or a or a  ,  , or  after it.
Josh
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keep_it_real
Jan 13, 2009, 3:46 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Dec 26, 2008
Posts: 25
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makes me feel a little better...
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