Jan 16, 2009, 7:01 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend?
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You know my vote. Straight pull would be ok if you were to fab a stem and do a worst case situation. Just curious how much the trigger slot reduces the strength, if you had to fall on one with the stem sticking out over the edge. Seems like a waste to pull a good rigid stem friend though, should be on a rack in the desert, doing what it was meant to do. Remember, rigid stem friends=strong, cheap, light.
Jan 16, 2009, 8:04 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend?
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just my 2cents but i would say just sraight pull it to give us the base strenth, and see how it compars to yours. then if its about the same take some more of yours and break them every way posible. but whatever you do we want video!!!
Jan 16, 2009, 8:34 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend?
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I say jump up and down on it until it breaks, I think this is how all cam's should be tested, and they should be rated in number of jumps withstood rather than kN.
Jan 16, 2009, 8:54 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Which way to break Atlnq9's Forged Friend?
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kennoyce wrote:
I say jump up and down on it until it breaks, I think this is how all cam's should be tested, and they should be rated in number of jumps withstood rather than kN.
Just my thought.
to accomplish this, find someone with an old pickup and start yanking. climbing rope can be used to connect the truck to the cam (two tests at once).
I volunteer my truck and retired ropes if you ever visit AR sandstone...
Seems like a waste to pull a good rigid stem friend though, should be on a rack in the desert, doing what it was meant to do. Remember, rigid stem friends=strong, cheap, light.
Yeah, I know, but: A. I aint all that fond of them any smaller than 2.5, that big stem gets in the way everywhere but the desert B. I got another #2 in much better condition, that one the trigger action wasn't as smooth due to slight rust on the axle
Another note I think this is what one would call the 4th generation ridged friend, possible 3rd (I don't know whether the black anodized stem models or the ones with all sizes red anodizing came first, tjis one is the latter). If I am correct there were five different models with the first two being like Aric's stem (just machined) and the last three having a slightly forged stem hence the name change from friends to forged friends... Correct me if anybody knows for sure on the generations...
(This post was edited by atlnq9 on Feb 8, 2009, 2:54 AM)
Many years ago I thought I was climbing a particular route at the Gunks. I got up into a place where I couldn't see how the holds went together. I managed to figure out a couple of more moves, and then came across the head (just the head) of a friend in a horizontal crack. I decided that bailing was the better course.
Naturally, I later learned that the route where the cam was was considerably harder than what I had envisioned doing.
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