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rockie
Feb 4, 2009, 3:29 AM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Sep 18, 2007
Posts: 1130
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I leave mine tied for both cordellete and webbing, though I tend to use webbing more for TR and need to adjust that more often. I do, however, adjust where my harness loops through the buckles on a fairly regular basis so that the same piece of webbing isn't always cinched in the same spot. I'd do whatever you feel comfortable with. It seems fine to leave the knot in to me.
Heh! I can't do that with my harness as it is on the tightest setting and any looser it will fall of my body.
I was told I'd likely fit a childs harness??! 
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graniteboy
Feb 4, 2009, 10:12 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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This has truly got to be one of the most ridiculous questions I have ever seen on RC.com.
Shouldn't it be apparent to you, OP, that all of the tens of thousands of us who leave our knots in our cordelettes and slings are actually DEAD? And we only show up as ghosts at the climbing area????
Best of all:
Do you propose that we untie our cordelette knot Between pitches??? Cause we are, after all, just dead guy ghosts, and we don't weigh as much as the living.....maybe that makes a difference???
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binrat
Feb 5, 2009, 8:26 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
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dynosore wrote: Your cordlette will weaken according to the following formula: # of days knot has been tied/(sqrt of average troll posting per day)*e^1.72
Unless you attach a drawing with coloured arrows then no lose.
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andrewG
Feb 5, 2009, 9:05 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Aug 5, 2008
Posts: 102
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With a cordelette that long I'd assume you are equalizing 3 pieces, so if the knot failed you'd still have 2. Good to go.
On a more serious note, I've yet to untie a cordelette or a prussik. Just replace it when it starts to show wear.
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trenchdigger
Feb 5, 2009, 9:30 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
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rocknice2 wrote: I know that knot weaken a cord but they always break just below the knot never at it. Same thing for swaged cable. Always just below the swage. Cords were snapped pulling stumps with 4x4
The weak point in a knot is always the first bend the rope makes as it enters the knot. Generally, the smoother that bend, the stronger the knot. When the rope breaks there, the knot usually stays pretty much "tied" since the rope breaks where the rope enters the knot.
To say the rope doesn't break at the knot isn't really correct. It breaks at the knot, but, in most cases, enough of the knot remains so it does not disintegrate.
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knudenoggin
Feb 7, 2009, 3:20 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 596
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In reply to: This has truly got to be one of the most ridiculous questions I have ever seen on RC.com.
missing the possibility of the best answer.
In reply to: I connect the cordelette using a double fisherman. Is it a bad idea to leave this knot in the cord' for an extended period of time?
do NOT connect the cordelette!
Right.
Just bring the untied ends out through the powerpoint knot and let them dangle;
or tie them off with an Offset Ring Bend (EDK) snug against the powerpoint, as
a stopper. The remaining two eyes of cord to clip are more than strong enough.
.:. Having not tied the knot you ask about, you won't need to worry about it.
As for Prusiks, leave 'em tied.
As for where knots break, YMMV depending upon the knot & the loading.
Bowlines in climbing cordage should break in the main, nipping loop,
which pretty much is the initial curve; but I've seen the break come at the
entry point through the collar, with some aged, frictive rope. There has
been little effort at determining breakpoints, but that is changing a little,
via The Lab, and elsewhere. (thread some marker thread in knotted
cordage; photograph knot under tension; analyze the broken bits after)
*kN*
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