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Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing...
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scotty1974


Feb 11, 2009, 3:11 PM
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Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing...
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I know this topic is always beat to death, but does everyone go up a half size in an ice boot? Ice boots at my street size fit great with a thick sock with no heal lift, but with a double sock they are pretty cramped. But then a 1/2 size up they feel pretty long and then I'm committed to a double sock, even for summer climbs and I get a bit of heel lift. Is a bigger boot just I'm just going to have to get used to and continously wear double socks? I want to make sure I have sufficient air flow, but without feeling like I have too large of a boot on. I've also done quite a bit of reading / talking with people that think that the double sock actually restricts the flow of air and blood in your foot, and make it colder.

I'm looking at new boots and the new technical fit of boots leaves me a bit confused on what to buy. Thanks!


shoo


Feb 11, 2009, 3:25 PM
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Re: [scotty1974] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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scotty1974 wrote:
Ice boots at my street size fit great with a thick sock with no heal lift, but with a double sock they are pretty cramped.

First off, forget about number sizes. They are general guides, not absolutes. Even in mountaineering boots, some fit your foot, some don't, and some will fit in strange sizes.

Secondly, you've already found your answer. Go single sock in the boot size that fits you. You don't really gain anything with that second sock. As you pointed out, the second sock may restrict blood flow, which may make you worse off in the end.

The boot is insulated. The sock is more for wicking moisture away, comfort, and that last little bit of insulation. It's easier to fine tune the insulation of your socks than your boots, but they are really only for the fine-tuning, not for the primary insulation.


rhythm164


Feb 11, 2009, 3:28 PM
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Re: [scotty1974] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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It probably depends on the boot. I use the Nepal Extremes and sized them so that they're snug with a midweight sock, since they're insulated, that does the trick, even on cold days in the Adirondacks. if the boot is lacking on insulation, size them for use with a thicker sock.


scotty1974


Feb 11, 2009, 3:34 PM
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I should have mentioned this but the 2 boots I'm looking at that fit well are the Scarpa Freney and the Kayland M11+.

Thanks for the advice!


justinboening


Feb 11, 2009, 4:58 PM
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Re: [scotty1974] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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You need to be able to climb in these boots, so heel lift is not something you're going to want to deal with (nor should you have to). One sock plus the boot should be plenty warm, if you're getting an appropriate boot, which you are, that fits you well. Sizing a boot up half a size is sizing them half a size too big. My vote has been cast.


granite_grrl


Feb 11, 2009, 5:32 PM
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Re: [justinboening] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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If you get a good pairs of socks there should be no problem just wearing one pair. A good pair doesn't have to mean huge and thick. Those big ones just tend to cut off my circulation. You'd be surprized at how thin my second warmest socks actually are. They're ski socks and come up to my knees, which I think helps a lot.


go_dyno


Feb 12, 2009, 9:12 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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There is no single best system. If you can describe your feet and find someone with similar feet and what boot/sock combo they use will help you the most. I agree with everything the others said, but I use 2 socks.

I do not believe in really thick socks at all because they are inconsistent in their warmth/thickness and eventually compress and lose warming ability and padding ability. I try and choose the correct boot for its specific purpose and let the boot do the insulating.

Socks "for me" are for fitting and wicking. I have low volume feet with narrow heels and my feet are bony. That is why I use a thin liner sock and a quality midweight sock. The liner sock keeps the blisters down on my bony feet and is probably not necessary for people with normal feet and the advancements in sock technology.

I also BEGIN all fitting with a quality insole that works for my feet and works with the boot. Start here and then look at socks combos and boot size.

Good Luck!

ps I use either Montrail Insoles and am currently experimenting with SOLE insoles (that Ed Viesturs endorses) and Patagonia liner socks ankle height (wear out too fast) then a midweight Smartwool (which are perfect) all stuffed into my La Sportiva EVO Extremes.


(This post was edited by go_dyno on Feb 12, 2009, 9:22 AM)


Partner brent_e


Feb 12, 2009, 3:47 PM
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Re: [go_dyno] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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My experience has led me to use 1 sock, as well. I find my feet are warmer with a denser midweight sock than the thicker red and gray smartwool socks.

just make sure your boots fit. wear them, walk around the store, see if your feet move around, make sure you're getting blood flow to your toes. I find it's nice to be able to wiggle my toes, too.


EvilMonkey


Feb 22, 2009, 12:21 AM
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Re: [scotty1974] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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i'm a religious nepal evo wearer. great boot! mine fit true to size. they also have a velcro-in tongue piece that adds volume to the inside of the boot. with a single sock or when i'm doing really vertical ice where heel lift might be a problem, i put the insert in. if i'm wearing double socks or doing less sustained pitches, i take it out to give my foot a little more room. those boots you mentioned, i don't know them. they aren't fruit boots, are they? i know nothing about fruit boots except that they're fruity and should only be worn in colorado. if you're looking at plastic boots, always go with the even size and round down if you're a half size, then get custom, closed-cell inner-boots made if you want a great fit. twight explains it better in extreme alpinism, a book worth having anyway. but seriously, check out the sportiva nepals. never skimp on boots or tools. never. you'll regret it


go_dyno


Feb 22, 2009, 3:35 AM
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Re: [EvilMonkey] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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Evil Monkey is spot on.

Something you should also think about is "size" is just a "number" that someone has created based largely on their own criteria. US sizes are often different and there are two "different" number systems in Europe that use the same "number system" based on different "metric measures". So don't think in numbers/sizes just go by fit.


scotty1974


Feb 22, 2009, 2:42 PM
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Re: [EvilMonkey] Ice/mountaineering Boot Sizing... [In reply to]
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thanks for all the advice guys, I went with my true size and it was a winner. EvilMonkey, both are technical mountaineering / ice boots..really sweet boots!! My foot doesn't really fit the Sportiva lasts...I've tried, but I need a higher volume boot. Never worn the fruit boots, even living in CO!!!

Thanks for all the advice!!


graniteboy


Feb 24, 2009, 12:55 AM
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Astoundingly, nobody in here addressed the issue of "what altitude do you expect to be climbing at"? Because it makes all the diference in the world: At higher altitudes (>16K ft) your feet actually swell to a full size larger than thay are at lower elevations. Consequently, you need to choose an oversized boot for big mounain climbing. My high altitude boots are a full size and a half bigger than my normal alpinism boots....and when I get up high, they're perfect.


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