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N_Oo_B
Feb 28, 2009, 2:31 AM
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list injury type and what you've found to work personally. maybe i can stir up some ideas.
i think im going to buy a Wii Fit and play left handed in addition to the hiking im doing.
fyi - right wrist injury.
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rockforlife
Feb 28, 2009, 2:36 AM
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I love lamp.
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jt512
Feb 28, 2009, 2:39 AM
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You don't. That's the problem with getting injured.
Jay
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onceahardman
Feb 28, 2009, 2:50 AM
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What jay said is pretty true. You can't maintain the same fitness level in body parts that are injured, like fingers, for example.
You can focus on some other things, like cardiovascular fitness, or flexibility, or leg strength. Some people do very well that way. Others focus on what they have lost, rather on what they still CAN do, and get depressed.
This is not unique to climbers. I have seen manual laborers get depressed over an injury, while others get determined to either:
1) rehabilitate the injury...
2) change vocations.
In short, getting depressed helps nothing. That other guy (johnwesley I think) wrote about losing 20 lbs in 2 months as a result of injury???? That won't help him heal. It's pretty hard for a skinny person to lose weight that quickly and still heal.
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N_Oo_B
Feb 28, 2009, 2:50 AM
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thank you for your inspirational words jt512.
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N_Oo_B
Feb 28, 2009, 2:58 AM
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personally i figure my damage needs bloodflow and time. well, one of those factors i can effect.
cardio, cardio, and a side order of warmth applied occationally to the arm that houses the injured wrist. throw in some posative thinking, and try not to let the emotional rollercoaster take over.
but i think im going to go with master jt512's advice..expect to get lazy, fatten up a bunch and watch late night get rich quick infomercials
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scottb
Feb 28, 2009, 3:08 AM
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If you can still hold an ice axe, climb some mountains.
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johnwesely
Mar 1, 2009, 1:42 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In short, getting depressed helps nothing. That other guy (johnwesley I think) wrote about losing 20 lbs in 2 months as a result of injury???? That won't help him heal. It's pretty hard for a skinny person to lose weight that quickly and still heal.
The problem is that I have a skinny body type that does not like to put muscle on, and then when I do not use it it goes away. I have been eating like a pig, but I have a fast metabolism so it doesn't really help. I have also gotten into somewhat decent cardiovascular shape for the first time in my life, so I am sure that has something to do with it too.
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N_Oo_B
Mar 1, 2009, 7:10 PM
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what are you doing cardio wise? skating?
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johnwesely
Mar 1, 2009, 7:26 PM
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I have been riding my bike a lot.
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aerili
Mar 1, 2009, 7:48 PM
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johnwesely wrote: The problem is that I have a skinny body type that does not like to put muscle on, and then when I do not use it it goes away. I have been eating like a pig, but I have a fast metabolism so it doesn't really help.
John, when I had clients who needed to gain weight, I would often supplement their regular food intake with shakes. I used Apex specifically, but since you can't buy it in stores, you could purchase some other shake mix you like and use some of the Apex recipes found here to add calories to the shakes and make things more appealing. (Drinking extra calories can often be easier than eating them....think of all the extra beer calories most people can consume!)
Remember, the shakes are NOT meal replacements in your case, but meal additions. Also, I would forego protein shakes in favor of a mix of carbs and protein (and fat) together.
Lastly, a lot of cardio will most certainly work against your muscle mass maintenance, unfortunately. 
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johnwesely
Mar 1, 2009, 8:08 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I don't have much of a choice regarding the cardio though because I need to ride my bike from class to home to work, so I am riding it a lot.
Would drinking soda instead of water help at meals help?
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aerili
Mar 2, 2009, 1:34 AM
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johnwesely wrote: Would drinking soda instead of water help at meals help?
No, I wouldn't do that. If you add fluid calories intake, keep it from high quality calories that are what is called "nutrient dense." Soda doesn't meet that definition.
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N_Oo_B
Mar 2, 2009, 3:34 AM
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lol. i would point out many reasons not to actually.
insolin spike - diabetes
excessive caffene - high bloodpreasure
tooth decay - expensive / painful
encourages buying the junk food "meal" instead of just the junk burger / taco / etc.
i used to be alot like you. never took any weight...
then i practiced liking beer untill i got really good at it! but srsly in the times im working tward drying up mostly.
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robdotcalm
Mar 2, 2009, 4:22 AM
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aerili wrote: johnwesely wrote: The problem is that I have a skinny body type that does not like to put muscle on, and then when I do not use it it goes away. I have been eating like a pig, but I have a fast metabolism so it doesn't really help. John, when I had clients who needed to gain weight, I would often supplement their regular food intake with shakes. I used Apex specifically, but since you can't buy it in stores, you could purchase some other shake mix you like and use some of the Apex recipes found here to add calories to the shakes and make things more appealing. (Drinking extra calories can often be easier than eating them....think of all the extra beer calories most people can consume!) Remember, the shakes are NOT meal replacements in your case, but meal additions. Also, I would forego protein shakes in favor of a mix of carbs and protein (and fat) together. Lastly, a lot of cardio will most certainly work against your muscle mass maintenance, unfortunately.
Why not chocolate milk? This is from an article in NY Times last year
Surprising Best Drink for Working Out
This may seem disgusting, but the next time you finish a sweat-inducing workout at the gym or a hard run in the neighborhood park, skip the sports drink. Reach for a tall, icy cold glass of chocolate milk to refuel your muscles. Yes, milk.
A new study from Indiana University concludes that athletes who drink chocolate milk after an intense bout of exercise are able to workout longer and with more power during a second workout, compared to athletes who drink commercial sports beverages.
"Our study indicates that chocolate milk is a strong alternative to other commercial sports drinks in helping athletes recover from strenuous, energy-depleting exercise," said co-author Dr. Joel M. Stager, professor of kinesiology at IU. "Chocolate milk contains an optimal carbohydrate to protein ratio, which is critical for helping refuel tired muscles after strenuous exercise and can enable athletes to exercise at a high intensity during subsequent workouts."
The study: Nine cyclists biked until their muscles were depleted of energy, rested four hours and then biked again until exhaustion. They did this three separate times. During the rest period, the cyclists drank one of three beverages: low-fat chocolate milk, a traditional fluid replacement sports drink or a carbohydrate replacement sports drink.
The results: During the second round of exercise, the researchers found that the cyclists who drank chocolate milk during the rest period were able to bike nearly twice as long before reaching exhaustion than those who consumed the carbohydrate replacement drink and just as long as those who consumed the fluid replacement drink.
Why? The researchers theorize that the combination of carbohydrates and protein found in chocolate milk is what helped enhance the cyclists' performance and suggest that flavored milk may be an optimal beverage for refueling muscles after exercise. In addition to its ideal combination of carbohydrates and protein, flavored milk contains seven other essential nutrients that are important for an athlete's health, including bone-building calcium. No other sports drink contains the nutrient package found in flavored milk. Chocolate milk is also cheaper than commercial sports drinks.
The study findings were published in the International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism.
»
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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A-Bowl
Mar 2, 2009, 4:48 AM
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Partially torn ligament in my shoulder
Started snowboarding more and hiking mountains to do so more often... legs are in great shape and my arms are staying pretty strong since im swinging poles on the way up. I don't even miss climbing even though i was obsessed just a month ago. Went climbing for the first time yesterday and just did low power endurancy routes in Owen's gorge to work my way back in. still need some time so its back to snowboarding... Just stay outside and active and you wont miss it!
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aerili
Mar 2, 2009, 6:29 AM
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Thanks for the study rob. I'm actually quite familiar with some of the studies on milk; in fact, a couple months ago the National Dairy Council even mailed me an entire packet of information about the nutrition in milk and its impact on training (this was not at my request, just something they did through my certifying organization, I guess).
Actually, wrt milk itself, there's nothing special about chocolate milk; most studies have been done on regular milk and very, very few on chocolate milk specifically. I think the only point for ever advocating chocolate milk is that some people are more likely to drink it than regular milk. The downside to chocolate milk is that it contains a buttload of unnecessary sugar.
I've often advocated milk as a post-exercise recovery fuel in place of expensive shakes. But that is a whole separate topic from fluid calorie intake for weight gain.
I do not believe milk is as effective when you are working with someone who needs to gain/maintain weight. Mostly because a glass of milk certainly cannot add the kind of calories that a shake + milk or juice can. Also, recipes like the ones Apex offers give a person a bit more variety when "formulating" their extra calories; if people always have to eat or drink the same old thing they get really, really tired of it and lose adherence. If they have to eat or drink even more of the same old thing (because it doesn't have enough calories), it gets even more tiresome!
So, I stick to my previous advice when it comes to adding calories. Of course, you can use milk as part of that advice. 
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granite_grrl
Mar 2, 2009, 12:35 PM
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N_Oo_B wrote: but i think im going to go with master jt512's advice..expect to get lazy, fatten up a bunch and watch late night get rich quick infomercials
That's pretty much what I had to do.
Daytime TV SUCKS!!!! BTW.
The funny thing is when you're recovering from major injury a lot of people actually loose weight. I did. Some of it was muscle, but my waist was also smaller (albiet, flabbier - I had a hard time keeping tone dispite doing crunches and situps).
The only exercise I did was PT, and later went for some walks. By the time I could do any other exercise I was also back to climbing.
Injuries - some big bones broken in my lower extremities.
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summerprophet
Mar 2, 2009, 9:12 PM
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robdotcalm wrote: Reach for a tall, icy cold glass of chocolate milk to refuel your muscles. Yes, milk.
Ummm, you can't retain any nutritional benefit from milk when you vomit up all the caloric intake right after your workout.
That being said, I love the stuff...... and really don't need any more calories...... and actually rarely work out.
Wait... what am I doing here again?
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lostcause
Mar 2, 2009, 9:26 PM
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For the current injury (finger tendon) I'm pretty much doing everything I did before (cardio, lifting, yoga...) except the climbing. The only thing I have to do different is use some straps to help with my grip on the dumbbells. For these I just used some old webbing that I had lying around, and am lifting a little lighter.
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Alpine07
Mar 2, 2009, 9:29 PM
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I had knee surgury with a year long recovery. All I was able to do were upper body exercises. By the end I was stronger in my upper body than I have ever been, but by legs were pretty weak. Just use what isn't broken.
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durangoclimber
Mar 2, 2009, 9:34 PM
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12oz curls and ignore my DR and Therapist and continue to adapt and climb as best I can. At least my mind stays fit that way.
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k.l.k
Mar 3, 2009, 1:46 AM
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I eat lots of bacon.
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N_Oo_B
Mar 3, 2009, 4:15 AM
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is that part of jt512's recomended therapy?
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Builderdash
Apr 10, 2009, 8:57 PM
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Jiu Jitsu.
Don't know why more climbers don't do it. Intense cardio, great way to learn more movement engrams, and it's useful in a pinch.
I've also got a right wrist injured now, but i still work through the reps getting muscle memory in action and i do all the conditioning the class does, i just don't spar hard at the end.
These two sports are incredible for cross training. Both require iron grip, balance, flexibility, and are as much mental as they are physical.
Climbing is moving mediation and problem solving and Jiu Jitsu is human chess. Both are sports where you have rely on yourself mostly, yet both lend themselves to being engaging as group activities.
Give it a shot!
Later,
Ry.
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