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mar_leclerc
Mar 21, 2009, 5:52 AM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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What are some of the most desperate measures you have resorted to while climbing, in whatever aspect it may be? Maybe its bailing off a single RP or chin hooking a ledge because you were too pumped to hang on... just tell us your story!
For me it would be running out of small pro on a finger crack and jamming spare biners into the crack as passive pro.... or the time I was bailing off an alpine route and tied two ropes together, fixed one end to the anchor and did a 120 meter free hanging rappel that landed us right in a large bergshrund that I had to lead out of w/o crampons.
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potreroed
Mar 21, 2009, 6:11 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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I had to rap off a single piton once, wedged end-wise across a wide crack!!!
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sungam
Mar 21, 2009, 6:51 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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potreroed wrote: I had to rap off a single piton once, wedged end-wise across a wide crack!!!
Sketchasaurous rex!!!
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Grizvok
Mar 21, 2009, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2008
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mar_leclerc wrote: What are some of the most desperate measures you have resorted to while climbing, in whatever aspect it may be? Maybe its bailing off a single RP or chin hooking a ledge because you were too pumped to hang on... just tell us your story! For me it would be running out of small pro on a finger crack and jamming spare biners into the crack as passive pro.... or the time I was bailing off an alpine route and tied two ropes together, fixed one end to the anchor and did a 120 meter free hanging rappel that landed us right in a large bergshrund that I had to lead out of w/o crampons.
I've definitely used my face once or twice on a few bouldering problems to help me balance and reach for holds that require a healthy stretch.
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coastal_climber
Mar 22, 2009, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
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Doing a high .10 mixed route, ran out of micro wires, and had to place a yellow alien with only two lobes in. Man was I happy to clip the next bolt 20ft up!
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jeepnphreak
Mar 22, 2009, 4:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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I had to rappel off a single #2 or 3 aider nut and a quick link I go to the top of the sport rout and the chain anchor had been removed for replacing. So I ended up using the aid nut I found, lodged it in to a small flake and than my bail biner aka quick link and raped off of that.
I was SUPER glad to have got back to the ground.
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You must have felt relieved when your feet made contact with the ground! 
