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elcapinyoazz
Apr 23, 2009, 4:02 PM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Nov 8, 2003
Posts: 93
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DO NOT QUESTION USNAVY!
Don't you know he performs "Bolt safety technical analysis ". He fancies himself a "commercial rigger" as well. Ain't that right "Slayer" Kuchenski?
http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/climbaloha/teamclimbaloha.html
Bwahahaha! Pure comedy gold.
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bill413
Apr 23, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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elcapinyoazz wrote: Don't you know he performs "Bolt safety technical analysis ". He fancies himself a "commercial rigger" as well. Ain't that right "Slayer" Kuchenski? http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/climbaloha/teamclimbaloha.html 
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angry
Apr 23, 2009, 4:34 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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angry
Apr 23, 2009, 4:40 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I got the impression that they're using rigger or commercial rigger as anyone who's ever used a rope to do anything. That is rigging.
I once hung a sign off a cliff for a construction company (the project was in the news and they wanted name recognition). I was paid for the job. I suppose I'm a commercial rigger too.
I had a single point and shoot photo of mine published in "The New Yorker" completely on accident. That makes me a professional climbing photographer.
For my student teaching I had a group of kids I took to the climbing wall next to the school for about a month, that makes me a guide.
This is a fun game.
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shockabuku
Apr 23, 2009, 4:40 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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Wow. Not even a sailor. I'm mightily disappointed.
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jt512
Apr 23, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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elcapinyoazz wrote: http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/climbaloha/teamclimbaloha.html
"Bolt safety technical analysis." Yeah, right.
Jay
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james481
Apr 26, 2009, 4:07 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Aug 10, 2007
Posts: 201
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jt512 wrote: elcapinyoazz wrote: http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/climbaloha/teamclimbaloha.html "Bolt safety technical analysis." Yeah, right. Jay
Also, notice the draw with double Strings... 
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jt512
Apr 26, 2009, 4:13 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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james481 wrote: jt512 wrote: elcapinyoazz wrote: http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/climbaloha/teamclimbaloha.html "Bolt safety technical analysis." Yeah, right. Jay Also, notice the draw with double Strings...
Then there is this obvious attempt to misrepresent his experience:
"Originally from New York where he began climbing at the age of 13..."
Jay
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tradrenn
May 1, 2009, 9:47 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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USnavy wrote: james481 wrote: I'm having trouble visualizing how this could happen exactly without the draw being backclipped, unless there was some interaction between the bolt-end biner and the rock or bolt. This does happen (mostly on poorly placed bolts) and you need to be able to identify situations where this may be likely and know how to correct it. There are multiple ways what I explained can happen and the draw can come unclipped in the following fashion regardless of which way you face the gate. The following is the problem I had with a draw coming unclipped before I added the Strings to the top draw. Step 1: You see the path veers to the left so you face the gate to the right (like you should). [img]http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/980/img4680r.jpg[/img] Step 2: As you climb above the draw the pull from the rope pulls the draw up above the bolt (as commonly happens). [img]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6214/img4682w.jpg[/img] Step 3: The draw starts to fall back below the bolt and the body of the biner gets caught between the hanger and bolt / stud (or it gets caught in the hanger itself). [img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/1633/img4684.jpg[/img] Step 4: The draw falls completely down and the dogbone is now resting on the gate and the top biner is still pinned.  Step 5: The gate opens. [img]http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9447/img4686p.jpg[/img] I found that using a String on the top biner completely eliminates the chances of this happening and thus that’s the "added safety feature" I attributed to using a String on the top biner. Also, the above example is not the only way the biner can open if there is not a String on the top biner.
To this I can only reply with a real live pic.
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lemon_boy
May 1, 2009, 2:23 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Mar 12, 2002
Posts: 287
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navy,
in the mid 90's i was sport climbing, and a guy was climbing a route about 20 feet left of me. he fell at the 3rd bolt, the biner broke, and he hit the deck. fortunately, he wasn't injured. he was using quickdraws with rubberbands around the webbing on the bolt-end. his partner had warned him about this because he had noticed that the bolt end biners were getting jammed up in the bolt hangers.
i had a partner who insisted on using this setup. we would always climb on our own draws. i kept pointing out whenever the biner would get jammed in the hanger, and he would say something like "its probably strong enough". finally, he was leading a route that was somewhat runout, and was well above the bolt on fairly hard climbing. i pointed this out again and it finally freaked him out a bit. the biner was jammed in there pretty well, and he had to spend a fair bit of time flipping the rope to dislodge it.
i agree that it is possible for this happen whether you are banding the bolt-end biner or not, but it will happen more frequently when the runner is restricted from moving freely (ie banded). also, when it is banded, it has a lot harder time moving back to the correct position.
i h
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