I have the BD's Havent placed enough of them to Like or Dislike took a lead fall on a #4 last year, saved my ass! Usually select a cam for ease of placement.
May 12, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #57 of 73
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Re: [cracklover] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I carry a set of hex's, but only to certain areas. Admittedly, I don't climb too much hard trad. I have found that I really like the security of hex's, but they just don't place well in some areas. However, for areas like Seneca, you might be better off with a set of hex's than a set of cam's. In the end I think it's all personal preference.
May 12, 2009, 6:05 PM
Post #60 of 73
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Re: [braaaaaaaadley] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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However, for areas like Seneca, you might be better off with a set of hex's than a set of cam's.
Yes, for moderate routes at Seneca, I'd rather have hexes than cams. Another alternative is to use neither. Falling on moderate routes at Seneca is a bad idea, even with bomb.com protection.
A hex in a horizontal makes such a nice whatever-happens-this-will-stop-me-piece.
Funny, I tend to evaluate placements based on the quality of the placement, not just the type of piece that's in it.
I don't carry hexes. I haven't carried them in years. I still have the hexes my father used when he was climbing the early 80s. My #9 hexcentric is on permanent loan to my climbing partner, who uses it as a hammer for pounding out especially well set nuts.
For cragging, I simply can't justify the lightness/bail piece argument, since I am just cragging. I can come back and grab something I had to bail from, and I'm not walking so far that the weight is an issue.
The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
Now, that is a contradictory statement. They could become a training aid to force you to figure out good stances. After all, there are climbers who's good stance / rest stance is a heinously difficult place for me to hold on. So, using hexes might be a good thing for you.
Funny, I tend to evaluate placements based on the quality of the placement, not just the type of piece that's in it.
Duh! No I wouldn't place a hex in a spot more suited to a nut or a cam. But I regulary run into placements where a hex would make the best pro. Sure a cam would almost always work, and if I'm in a hurry that's what I place. But for each placement I try to use the best piece available to me. Sometimes that is a cam, sometimes a nut and sometimes a hex. Simple.
Now rock is not the same everywhere, and you might not have much use for them. Fine.
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For cragging, I simply can't justify the lightness/bail piece argument, since I am just cragging. I can come back and grab something I had to bail from, and I'm not walking so far that the weight is an issue.
True. When cragging, I generally know what I'll need and try to leave any redundant aluminium on the ground.
I still try to place as much passive pro as I can, simply because I think it is a fun challenge, but that is personal preference.
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The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
First, I dont need a good stance to set a bomber hex. However when I do have a good stance I have the option to choose the most bomber pro for that placement instead of the most easily placed.
Would I take hexes on a sustained, hard route? No. Are sustained, hard routes all there is to my climbing? No.
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