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dashingleech
Nov 23, 2002, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Things I like in gyms include:
- Big, a lot of choices
- A good mix of difficulty, TR, lead, and bouldering.
- Ability to change to meet demand (e.g., our best bouldering wall is always packed with people, whereas other areas are always empty -- they should modify to accomodate)
- Always update the ratings when you change the route. I'm not too big on ratings, but I need to know when I'm stuck at a certain level. Almost all routes at our gym have either no rating or outdated.
- Realistic rock surfaces and shapes rather than plywood, especially flat plywood.
- Offer classes for all sorts of climbing skills, including outdoor climbing in the area.
- Safe systems (equipment checked regularly, etc.)
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farmerc
Nov 23, 2002, 4:47 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2002
Posts: 184
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I would like it if every wall in the gym had hangers on it for leading, as opposed to only leading on the overhang like a certain Reading, PA gym
~Chris
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crazee
Nov 23, 2002, 5:45 AM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 16
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The fact that you can goin and train after work ,at 9:00 at night . Also you can gowhen youdo not have a partner and just meet people to climb with .
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mtnsprts
Nov 23, 2002, 6:04 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 125
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the people, the ability to learn and train with others, the fact that climbing in the gym is a great substitute for weight training, good place to go if you are bored and can't make it to the mountains, new routes......
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redneckgirlls
Nov 23, 2002, 10:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2002
Posts: 3
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Climbing gyms are a great place to learn how to climb and learn foot work.
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axhernandi
Nov 23, 2002, 11:33 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 17
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Open 24/7 throughout the year
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 25, 2002, 3:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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It's nice to be able to do a lot of different climbs in a short amount of time. Otherwise I am outside whenever I can. My gym only has a few sport routes. I wish it had more.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 25, 2002, 3:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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It's nice to be able to do a lot of different climbs in a short amount of time. Otherwise I am outside whenever I can. My gym only has a few sport routes. I wish it had more.
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climb512
Nov 25, 2002, 6:48 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2001
Posts: 468
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The gym here in Rochester New York is so bad, it forced several of us to build our own walls!
Things to avoid
1-let climbers set the routes, not just a couple select employees. The routes get very boring.
2-They have a no loose chalk rule,this sucks, they say it causes white lung disease..lol. At the same time the place is very dusty and dirty.
3- Keep the little urchins from the pizza parties(that overun the place) restricted to certain areas. Nothing worse than climbing and grabbing a hold covered in pizza slime.
4- Long hours of operation. This place closed at 5 on sat and sun and wasnt open on mondays, or durring the week days for any shift workers.
5- keep the workers busy! No excuse for filthy restrooms,dirty floors and litter covered tables while the employees are all standing around shooting the shit.
Basically, Rock Ventures sucks. Those are some problems to avoid.
That was my 2 cents,good luck on the project.
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tinyball
Nov 25, 2002, 7:19 PM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 33
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Don't know if it has been said, but a bouldering cave where your feet can cut if you want them to.
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bitsofsod
Nov 25, 2002, 9:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 54
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More ranting about Rock Ventures (and tips for a successful gym of your own):
1. Turn down the music on the video games or get rid of the damned things!
2. A 5.6 on every rope? Why?
3. Some decent traverse routes would be nice.
4. Better supervision of the kiddies, especially in the cave.
5. Lead climbing -- it's there, allow people to do it!!!
With all the tips in response to your post, alisa, you'll have one hell of a gym project!
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jareks
Nov 26, 2002, 3:35 AM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2002
Posts: 10
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Daycare is the biggest thing, then friendly staff,
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ajkclay
Nov 26, 2002, 9:17 AM
Post #63 of 88
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
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I haven't seen all of the posts, so sorry if i've repeated stuff -
A viewing area with cafe facilities where non climbing family can watch/ or spectators can watch comps
Climate control so people are more likely to climb in extreme weather - might not be a thing in the US, but when it's well over 100 farenheit it's not nice being in a shed with a tin roof - sweat problems galore
bolts on all walls so that in addition to top-roping, you can also lead every climb
also a separate lead wall with BIG overhangs, and vertical walls too
bouldering area
bouldering cave with roofs and overhangs, and lots of good padding
regular climbing comps with a handicap system so all can compete with each other as well as in own grade, beginner to expert
gear shop
an ice wall (that'd be COOOOOL)
childcare facilities (playground)
voting system on which routes should change, and which should stay
errr that's off the top of my head, can't think of anything else right now
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sushislayer
Nov 26, 2002, 9:21 AM
Post #64 of 88
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Registered: Oct 6, 2002
Posts: 709
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If I deck, 911 is there faster.
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blindslap
Nov 26, 2002, 6:23 PM
Post #65 of 88
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
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LOTS OF CRACKS!!! at different widths also. why does every gym have to be full of sport problems? My gym has one crack and the beginning is so skinny it's probably rated 5.12d or 5.13. then at the last ten feet or so it gets wide enough to get a decent finger jam.
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estwing
Nov 26, 2002, 8:50 PM
Post #66 of 88
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
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I like dirty gravel on the ground, chalk dust making the air so thick that the lights get hazy, and greasy dirty holds. Spinners and quick draws that don't close hanging on loose hangers are fun to.
Have a nice day,
Sam
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climbinghigher24
Nov 27, 2002, 1:51 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 1
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I like my gym because of its convience. It is there in the snow and rain. It has a excelent staff, great bouldering, and even better routes. The locker room is also a plus, with toilet paper!!!( Ive been without a few times) But nothing beats the great outdoors.
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dougiec
Nov 27, 2002, 4:48 PM
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Registered: Apr 19, 2002
Posts: 31
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Don't think anyone's mentioned food yet. Our local gym has a nice wee cafe upstairs serving hot foot, drinks, snacks etc.
Braw.
Dougie
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xanx
Nov 28, 2002, 1:24 AM
Post #69 of 88
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
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ok i have read a bunch of these posts and i made me think of some important points i want to make:
first off, atmosphere is key i think. everyone at my gym treats everyone, from the hardcore tradster who comes in to train, to the n00b, like they already belong to the community. the owner is really laid back as are all the employees. the setter is great and is in every day even though he doesn't even work there; he is so dedicated he just sets boulder problems for free most of the time, and he changes some every week or so. friendly people who make everyone feel "in" is a neccesity.
I think route/problem quality is also very important if you want to get strong and be a good, diverse climber. we have a proportionally large boulder area with a cave, a bunch of TR's, and a lead wall that i almost never see used. all our hard stuff is on TR or bouldering (upwards of v11 in the case of projects). cleanliness is nice, as are a variety of facilities, but i suppose a biproduct of such laid back, content employees is taht we genearlly don't get much cleaning done, but the rest of the gym is so bomber most people don't really care.
i don't feel complex wall angles or textured (Eldorado) walls are neccesary. (i climbed at a gym with eldorado walls and hated them, such tiny, sharp footholds tore apart my shoes and left my feet in pain). for bouldering at least, some nice slightly over vertical, some 30' over, maybe 45', and 60' over, then a cave/roof section, with an arete or two and good dihedrals for stemming and you've got all you need.
hope this helps
mike
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mrhappy
Nov 28, 2002, 5:38 AM
Post #70 of 88
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Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 26
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My favourite thing is the time between 9pm and closing when everyone else has left, I've just warmed up and all the routes are free. Its like having my own playground.
If only that would actually happen some day
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sparky
Nov 28, 2002, 2:53 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
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It is inside, I can climb in the winter so the dead season is not as dead.
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alwaysforward
Nov 29, 2002, 5:40 AM
Post #72 of 88
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 979
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one thing i really like about my gym, besides cleanliness, weatherproof etc like everyone else has said, is the music. Joe Rockheads plays a wicked variety of music, constantly on random which is nice for everybody.
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craggy
Nov 29, 2002, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
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the odours are really good. Yup can't beat those wonderful aromas of feet and sweat... mmmmm... also gotta love the slimey, greasy holds, o ya, super great. Hey can't beat the line ups for those climbs too, super duper fun times... And lastly, the realism ... straight walls with bolted on holds? wow can't get more real then that...
o wait a second... hmmm nope... gyms are where it's at... ;p
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climber23
Nov 29, 2002, 7:11 PM
Post #74 of 88
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Registered: Sep 6, 2002
Posts: 6
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Our gym is one of the most advanced climbing facilities in the nation. It can handle over 120 climbers on the walls at one time. It has two rooms also, one that has less advanced walls, with ratings ranging from 5.4-5.9. Then there is a larger room, with more advanced walls, with routes ranging from 5.7-5.13+. It's part of a chain of climbing facilities called Vertical Endeavers. I really like climbing here, because the staff is really helpful, and will help you to improve on your climbing technique. This place is clean, and updated on all of the new climbing equiptment. It has over 20 self belaying ropes called auto belays. Of course nothing can substitute for climbing outside, with the open air, and on-siting routes, but if there is one place that even comes close, it's Vertical Endeavers.
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camhead
Nov 30, 2002, 11:52 PM
Post #75 of 88
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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wow! I'm surprised that last post isn't complete with popups and credit card payment options!
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