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maldaly
Jun 28, 2009, 3:36 AM
Post #26 of 42
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Thanks for the head's up on the other round stock lockers out there. It looks like they'll all work. As far as using 2 Münters, I've found it easiest to just rig two separate systems with the 'biners a few inches apart. And I'll agree that an autobloc is simpler... until you have to lower someone. Then it gets way complicated. And since we're talking hypothetical situations, what if you have 2 climbers, both hanging in space off an autobloc below a roof? If you have them on Münters all you have to do is release one at a time and lower. If you have them on an autobloc you have a project on your hands.
Don't get me wrong here. I think that autobloc'ing is a fine technique. I just see it used way too often by people who don't understand the complexity of releasing and lowering and who haven't set up their anchors to do so.
Climb safe,
Mal
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sungam
Jun 28, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #27 of 42
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A fine point with the lowering thingwhen there'stwo people I push really came to shove I'd just attempt to prussik with a advantage one of the out f reverso load, tie 'em into a munter and deal with it from there, but then again I never really have to bring 2 seconds up at once...
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jamincan
Jun 28, 2009, 3:54 PM
Post #28 of 42
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I believer the Petzl Williams biner would be another round-strock biner.
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moose_droppings
Jun 28, 2009, 4:46 PM
Post #29 of 42
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Sure I'd use a locker biner to connect the reverso3 to the anchor but whats with the concern of using a locker on the autoblock side of the reverso?
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phillygoat
Jun 28, 2009, 4:48 PM
Post #30 of 42
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moose_droppings wrote: Sure I'd use a locker biner to connect the reverso3 to the anchor but whats with the concern of using a locker on the autoblock side of the reverso?
Your sig answers that question.
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sungam
Jun 28, 2009, 5:20 PM
Post #31 of 42
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moose_droppings wrote: whats with the concern of using a locker on the autoblock side of the reverso?
Not to mention it's harder to find a smooth round biner that is non-locking.
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AntinJ
Jun 28, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #32 of 42
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In reply to: I am looking for the reverso3 manual (link in earlier reply does not work, and I cannot find it on petzl site). Does anyone have the link?
Splash,
Petzl's website is filled with valuable information:
The Reverso3 site alone has an instructional video and 3 PDF links.
http://www.petzl.com/...ay-devices/reverso-3
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moose_droppings
Jun 28, 2009, 6:04 PM
Post #33 of 42
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sungam wrote: moose_droppings wrote: whats with the concern of using a locker on the autoblock side of the reverso? Ever used one? have you never notice the little jig they do when it's at the slightest odd angle? those biners spin a fair bit - why risk it for 30 grams? Not to mention it's harder to find a smooth round biner that is non-locking.
Never used a reverso and never used a locker on the BD guide autolock side, never had a problem. I think its overkill.
edit; I've always got an oval on my rack.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jun 28, 2009, 6:06 PM)
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sungam
Jun 28, 2009, 6:16 PM
Post #34 of 42
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Perhaps ovals would work, but I have a deep down hatred of those things, and only own 3 - and they're dedicated to the slackline.
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harpo_the_climber
Jun 29, 2009, 1:54 PM
Post #35 of 42
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AntinJ wrote: In reply to: I am looking for the reverso3 manual (link in earlier reply does not work, and I cannot find it on petzl site). Does anyone have the link? Splash, Petzl's website is filled with valuable information: The Reverso3 site alone has an instructional video and 3 PDF links. http://www.petzl.com/...ay-devices/reverso-3
I looked at the Reverso 3 site linked to above, and found the video and 3 pdf links. The 3 pdf links were all supplementary instrucional material and didn't include the main instruction manual that would have come with the reverso 3. Does anyone know how to find the main instruction manual, as my r3 didn't come with one?
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splashclimber
Jun 29, 2009, 3:19 PM
Post #36 of 42
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Keep in mind there is a brand new Petzl Attache (37% lighter than the old one) as of 2009(2009?) I have not seen the new Attache, so take a look and be sure it is as still as rounded as the old one.
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splashclimber
Jun 29, 2009, 3:23 PM
Post #37 of 42
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I had already scoured the Petzl site and was looking for the manual. Yes, lots of information on the site, but not the actual manual posted anywhere. I did end up buying the device and found the info I was looking for ( i.e. when can you use the low friction mode). Not sure why Petzl does not post the actual manual anywhere, but now I own the device so I have the manual 
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adatesman
Jun 29, 2009, 3:27 PM
Post #38 of 42
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adatesman
Jun 29, 2009, 3:57 PM
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I_do
Jun 30, 2009, 7:53 AM
Post #41 of 42
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maldaly wrote: Skimming the thread I don't see any remarks as to the style of the blocking carabiner, and how that can effect your ability to pull rope through. It's super important to use a round stock carabiner as your blocking carabiner. The forged bodies of most of today's carabiners make a rough surface to pull the rope over. Just switching to a round stock 'biner from a forged body one will make a huge difference. These are hard to find and I think that the Petzl Attaché and the Trango HMS Mini are the only ones around. As far as belaying up 2 climbers with an autobloc rig; lots of good advice here. One thing is missing however, is the need to practice. If you're going to use an autobloc, set it up in a safe place and practice it with some friends. Take a whole day t do it. Set up every possible scenario you can think of and go over and over it. Trying to figure this out for the first time 300' off the ground is a really bad idea. Better yet, forget the autobloc and use münter hitches. Climb safe, Mal
I would much rather be belayed be a relatively new climber who only has to manage one belay device with autoblock function the having him handle two munters! Much bigger chance of fuckups then with two munters and the possible problems are easily circumvented (teach a proper tie off, do something easy where both seconders will pull through the climbs relatively easily, have the belayer install a munter before unlocking the device). Having to deal with a clusterfuck will only happen if one or both seconders can't keep climbing, choose your climbs accordingly.
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Alpinisto
Jul 2, 2009, 2:55 AM
Post #42 of 42
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adatesman wrote: No problem. Its a nice carabiner, but not what you want if you're looking for a round cross section. And a pic that shows where they removed material really well: 
I dunno...that rope bearing surface looks pretty wide to me. Wouldn't be surprised if it had the same radius as the old style (read: round stock) Attache.
May hafta pick me up one to compare side-by-side...
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