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pandippo
Jul 16, 2009, 11:01 PM
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Hi~
Sorry if this has been posted some where.. I did a search and I couldn't find an answer anywhere :P
New to climbing.. been bouldering for about 2 months now and our gym just updated with some new traversing routes.
Can someone explain the traverse grades to me? My friend was trying to tell me, but I don't quite understand. I'd completed a V2 and she said that its not a real V2? and that I need to complete a V1 to a V2 for it to be a real V2.
Does she mean I need to start the V1, finish at the V2 start and then complete the V2 as well?
Not that it matters too much, I just like to have a good idea of what my skill level is at.
TIA
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hafilax
Jul 16, 2009, 11:14 PM
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You'll have to ask the setters at your gym how they grade their routes. There's no formula.
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rockandlice
Jul 17, 2009, 12:10 AM
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gym grades = doesn't matter
fuggetaboutit
I think the best advice is to not worry about grades as a true climbing ability scale when climbing indoors. It's good to have the gyms listed grades as a overall point of reference when picking the problems to work on, but nothing more. In general, the grading will not translate over to your true climbing ability outside.
The gym is a great place to train, but wait until you put your skills to use outside before trying to get a feel for your general climbing ability level.
I've seen many people climb in a gym for a period of time, and then get quite frustrated when moving outside because they are not sending the same grades outside as they did regularly at their local gym. So, work your way through grades at the gym, and then see what it translates to outside without any notion of the level you "should" be at.
As for the traversing, it should be the grade of the moves using the colored/taped holds associated with the tag. Traverses can be typically rated based on a technical crux, a sustained level of more power moves, or a long endurance problem.
For example, take two problems, one being 4 moves, and the other 10 moves. Each individual move on the 10 move problem may be easier than the moves on the 4 move problem, but they become increasingly difficult in feeling due to the length of the problem and having to do all of the moves in succession.
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Peasley1
Jul 17, 2009, 3:54 AM
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rockandlice is right, indoor grades don't matter they just give you an idea of where ur at.
As far as traversing grades they are rated more for endurance than for power moves becaus u obviously get pumped out doing them.
Also ignore anybody who is giving u shit about it not being a true send in the gym or taking away from your personal victory. If u feel like u accomplished something by completing that traverse than it doesn't matter if it was a V0 or a V9 then.
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clc
Jul 17, 2009, 5:25 AM
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your friend is wrong. and gym grades are usually wrong too.
You don't need to climb the V1 to climb a V2. that doesn't even make sense.
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curt
Jul 17, 2009, 6:32 AM
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I need access to that "shoot myself through the head" smiley, seriously. Where'd it go?
Curt
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jamincan
Jul 17, 2009, 12:07 PM
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clc wrote: You don't need to climb the V1 to climb a V2. that doesn't even make sense.
The only thing I can think of is that in this particular situation, the V2 he speaks of is an extension of the V1.
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IsayAutumn
Jul 17, 2009, 1:14 PM
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curt wrote: I need access to that "shoot myself through the head" smiley, seriously. Where'd it go? Curt
Just left of the "I'm a self-important ass" icon. Seriously. This is the beginners' forum.
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pandippo
Jul 17, 2009, 3:08 PM
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IsayAutumn wrote: curt wrote: I need access to that "shoot myself through the head" smiley, seriously. Where'd it go? Curt Just left of the "I'm a self-important ass" icon. Seriously. This is the beginners' forum.
 lol
thanks everyone! :) i didn't think what she said made sense.. just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing :)
altho admittedly it's a really easy V2 .. the V1 traverse before it is a lot harder! haha
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knieveltech
Jul 17, 2009, 3:24 PM
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curt wrote: I need access to that "shoot myself through the head" smiley, seriously. Where'd it go? Curt 
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It died of gunshot wounds. 
