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jeepnphreak
Jul 17, 2009, 7:11 PM
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shimanilami wrote: Sport route? It's a messed up sport route if you have to use a second rope to get down. Rapping to intermediate anchors I can understand. But a sport route that requires two ropes? It seems like an oxymoron. But maybe I'm just climbing in the wrong places.
Not really. in montana we have a few, (not many) single pitch sport routes that are 140-160 feet long that requires a doubel rope rap to get down. Iam sure were not the only place that has long pitch routes.
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shimanilami
Jul 17, 2009, 8:23 PM
Post #27 of 48
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It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there.
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marc801
Jul 17, 2009, 8:55 PM
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shimanilami wrote: It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there.
Maximum convenience and minimal effort can sometimes be mutually exclusive.
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marc801
Jul 17, 2009, 9:32 PM
Post #30 of 48
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oldsalt wrote: I also like to carry 200' of 5mm cord in a mesh bag. I hang the primary through both anchor rings with a big locker stopper. The tag line is also on the big locker, but not through the rings. It feeds out of the bag while I rap, and then I use it to haul down the primary.
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bill413
Jul 17, 2009, 10:29 PM
Post #31 of 48
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shimanilami wrote: It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there.
Minimal effort - they should put f'ing ladders on the rock.
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shimanilami
Jul 18, 2009, 12:22 AM
Post #32 of 48
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bill413 wrote: shimanilami wrote: It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there. Minimal effort - they should put f'ing ladders on the rock.
What are you saying, that aid climbing is easy? Them's fightin' words, Bill.
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marc801
Jul 18, 2009, 1:05 AM
Post #33 of 48
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shimanilami wrote: What are you saying, that aid climbing is easy?
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bill413
Jul 18, 2009, 2:16 AM
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shimanilami wrote: bill413 wrote: shimanilami wrote: It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there. Minimal effort - they should put f'ing ladders on the rock. What are you saying, that aid climbing is easy? Them's fightin' words, Bill.
It's the "maximum convenience" phrase. Hmmm...can we have shuttles to the cliffs instead of those stupid approaches?
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Goo
Jul 18, 2009, 12:42 PM
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there are a couple routes like that here in georgia that i can think of. isn't too uncommon.
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jeepnphreak
Jul 20, 2009, 11:30 PM
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shimanilami wrote: It's all good, but IMO "sport" implies maximum convenience and minimal effort ... for me, that is. You lazy bastards should put midway rap anchors in and then, perhaps, I'll come and climb there.
Sport implies max convenience... not here. Spots simply mean a face climb that your cant protect anyother way, so we drill in a couple of bolts. Plus why should we put in halfway rap stations in if it keeps you/other climber off the routes if you are unwilling to pack up an extra rope. that means less people to waite for. ha ha.
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wallwombat
Aug 6, 2009, 7:55 AM
Post #38 of 48
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potreroed wrote: In El Potrero Chico, world capital of big wall sport climbs....
I would have thought that the Verdon Gorge would qualify as "the world capital of big wall sport climbs" but since it's not in North America, you probably haven't heard of it.
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potreroed
Aug 6, 2009, 7:09 PM
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Although I've not been there (have you?) I am aware of the fabulous Verdon Gorge. We get many French and other European climbers at El Potrero Chico who tell me EPC is as good as Verdon. In fact, a couple who own a Bed & Breakfast at Verdon come to El Potrero Chico every winter for their vacation.
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clmbr
Aug 25, 2009, 2:41 AM
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Setting up the second rope to rap from the anchors is fine... if you get to the anchors, but usually if you gotta bail it'll be at the most awkward part of a climb and hanging off your quickdraw on a single bolt. So you're not going to be bringing the second up with the extra rope and all of you hanging off the bolt. To do all the tasks involved in setting up the second rope yourself is going to be mission there too. Don't forget your maillion or byebye to quickdraw
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docburner
Aug 25, 2009, 5:31 PM
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At a local crag in ca, people just stop clipping bolts once they hit the ~110 foot mark, and then take the whip. But I guess it is all fixed draws so you don't have to get any gear back.
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ShibbyShane
Aug 25, 2009, 9:34 PM
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docburner wrote: At a local crag in ca, people just stop clipping bolts once they hit the ~110 foot mark, and then take the whip. But I guess it is all fixed draws so you don't have to get any gear back.
Huh? How far will they climb above the last bolt if they're doing this? I mean, if the climb is 140 or so, they're taking a 60+ foot whipper... I wouldn't think it'd be too good for your rope to do this all the time.
Where in CA is this?
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freerangequark
Oct 31, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #43 of 48
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Peasley1 wrote: 1.) Treat like double ropes (don't like this option because of the increased forces on mah body/anchor, they are both 10.2)
On trad routes I've almost always used twins...
but in regard to #1 (above) I was wondering...
Would it be possible for the leader to climb with two standard ropes, clip the two ropes. but have the belayer only belaying one of the ropes. Essentially the second rope is along for the ride and while the first rope is doing what a single rope would normally do.
There are a few possible drawbacks I see to this such as increased rope weight on the leader.
I've never climbed like this and am not recommending. I am simply asking if there is anything problematic or dangerous with what I am describing?
Thanks,
Glenn
(This post was edited by freerangequark on Oct 31, 2009, 7:55 PM)
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slablizard
Oct 31, 2009, 7:37 PM
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One of the best climbing in the world...amazing multi-pitch climbs, they all start with a hanging belay...and you better be SOLID on anything under 11a, it's runout man...and WAY exposed..the fiurst whippers take your breath off..then you get addicted to it.
wallwombat wrote: potreroed wrote: In El Potrero Chico, world capital of big wall sport climbs.... I would have thought that the Verdon Gorge would qualify as "the world capital of big wall sport climbs" but since it's not in North America, you probably haven't heard of it. |
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qtm
Nov 1, 2009, 1:42 AM
Post #45 of 48
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freerangequark wrote: Peasley1 wrote: 1.) Treat like double ropes (don't like this option because of the increased forces on mah body/anchor, they are both 10.2) On trad routes I've almost always used twins... but in regard to #1 (above) I was wondering... Would it be possible for the leader to climb with two standard ropes, clip the two ropes. but have the belayer only belaying one of the ropes. Essentially the second rope is along for the ride and while the first rope is doing what a single rope would normally do. There are a few possible drawbacks I see to this such as increased rope weight on the leader. I've never climbed like this and am not recommending. I am simply asking if there is anything problematic or dangerous with what I am describing? Thanks, Glenn
Having other sport climbers laughing at you?
I'm primarily a trad climber and climb with doubles. I've lead trad and sport with two singles as doubles when I felt it would be easier for me to lead than have the 2nd trail the rope for whatever reason. Yes, I'd rather have the 2nd trail it, but taking into consideration the route and the abilities of my 2nd, sometimes it's better if I lead with it.
I'd rather lead as doubles than clipping as twins and leaving one unbelayed. Otherwise I'll just trail it and not bother making the effort to clip it.
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bennydh
Nov 1, 2009, 3:52 AM
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It brings up issues of redundancy, safety, and usually instigates a lot of butt hurt people on forums with retorts like: "you're gonna kill the noob", but it is still an option and done right it is relatively safe, IMO.
Have someone knowledgeable teach you a Texas Rope Trick. Also acknowledge that fucking up, or a simple lapse in judgment has serious consequences... Like death.
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freerangequark
Nov 1, 2009, 1:24 PM
Post #47 of 48
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qtm wrote: freerangequark wrote: Peasley1 wrote: 1.) Treat like double ropes (don't like this option because of the increased forces on mah body/anchor, they are both 10.2) On trad routes I've almost always used twins... but in regard to #1 (above) I was wondering... Would it be possible for the leader to climb with two standard ropes, clip the two ropes. but have the belayer only belaying one of the ropes. Essentially the second rope is along for the ride and while the first rope is doing what a single rope would normally do. There are a few possible drawbacks I see to this such as increased rope weight on the leader. I've never climbed like this and am not recommending. I am simply asking if there is anything problematic or dangerous with what I am describing? Thanks, Glenn Having other sport climbers laughing at you? I'm primarily a trad climber and climb with doubles. I've lead trad and sport with two singles as doubles when I felt it would be easier for me to lead than have the 2nd trail the rope for whatever reason. Yes, I'd rather have the 2nd trail it, but taking into consideration the route and the abilities of my 2nd, sometimes it's better if I lead with it. I'd rather lead as doubles than clipping as twins and leaving one unbelayed. Otherwise I'll just trail it and not bother making the effort to clip it.
LOL...my bad for not clarifying.
I was talking about a trad route where the other rope coming up as a tagline from the second might get caught in a crack or where the route might wander a bit.... not on a sport route.
-Glenn
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newriverE
Nov 1, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #48 of 48
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Having two ropes is great. Alternate their use and extend both of their lives. I guess it depends on the routes you'll be climbing as to whether or not I'd carry two ropes. For my taste, I'd rather carry along two extra $7.50 quicksilver screwgates and leave them on the route if I had to bail early than deal with the extra weight, bulk, or logistics of bringing along the second rope. I'm thinking of long vertical sport climbs here. I know that people take two ropes up climbs all the time. OR, if I knew that my favorite place to climb had super long pitches and I needed more cord to get to the ground I'd just order my favorite rope from Sterling in an 80m version. It's like 80 dollars more and over the life of the rope that extra cost would be worth the freedom of a single line, in my opinion.
And, if you want to check out some sweet multipitch sport this side of the Verdon go to the beaver dam wall area outside of St George UT where there are some 7 pitch climbs up to the 14a range...
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