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jackmarr
Aug 3, 2009, 2:05 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2008
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Hi I havent seen a lot of activity on this front lately. I am always looking to climb outside, trad or sport, near Shanghai. I know some areas and am connected to the local climbing community and have lived as an expat in Asia for many years but would like to expand my horizons. Trad is great, I have a decent rack and am happy to follow a strong leader. Sport or bouldering is of course fun as well. Drop a line, Jack
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camael
Aug 20, 2009, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2009
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Hey jack (is this your first name?!)
I will be coming to shanghai within 3 weeks and I would love to go climbing as often as possible (esprecially outdoors)
Do you live in shanghai?
carina
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jackmarr
Aug 21, 2009, 3:51 PM
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Hi Carina--
Yes we live in Shanghai. We go to the climbing gym a lot (3-44 times/week) and try to get outside as often as possible Just came back from an 8 day bouldering/sport trip to Hong Kong and Yangshuo and plan to go to a festival in Shanxi next weekend. There is zero outdoor climbing in Shanghai unfortunately, the nearest sport crag is about 2 hours away but we still make it quite often and are planning on looking into some first ascent trad toproped climbs in October. Drop me a line when you get to town and we can at least go for an indoor route/bouldering session. Best Jack |
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camael
Aug 21, 2009, 4:14 PM
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Hey jack,
thank you for your answer!!!
I was thinking that there is not many places to do outdoor climbing!
But I will send you a message by the time I arrive this would be great! Thank you!!
I really have to find a place to go climging :D
looking forward to meet you
carina
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jackmarr
Aug 21, 2009, 4:23 PM
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The gym is pretty good, as although it is indoors you can meet lots of climbers. Look forward to meeting you too Jack
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guangzhou
Aug 22, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Two hours is quite reasonable actually. I might consider working in Shangmai afterall. I assume it was further to the cliffs.
Cheers
Eman
jackmarr wrote: Hi Carina-- Yes we live in Shanghai. We go to the climbing gym a lot (3-44 times/week) and try to get outside as often as possible Just came back from an 8 day bouldering/sport trip to Hong Kong and Yangshuo and plan to go to a festival in Shanxi next weekend. There is zero outdoor climbing in Shanghai unfortunately, the nearest sport crag is about 2 hours away but we still make it quite often and are planning on looking into some first ascent trad toproped climbs in October. Drop me a line when you get to town and we can at least go for an indoor route/bouldering session. Best Jack
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jackmarr
Aug 23, 2009, 6:13 AM
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Two hours is a best-case scenario: fast train to Hangzhou then a taxi to near the cliff base then a 20 minute approach. Still it is feasible. There is some bolting going on in nearby areas as well that I would love to get involved in-- think Hangzhou is probably the closest though.
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guangzhou
Aug 24, 2009, 5:46 AM
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jackmarr wrote: Two hours is a best-case scenario: fast train to Hangzhou then a taxi to near the cliff base then a 20 minute approach. Still it is feasible. There is some bolting going on in nearby areas as well that I would love to get involved in-- think Hangzhou is probably the closest though.
Thanks. I use to live in Guangzhou and I was recently considering a posting in Shanghai. Now I know I can except a job there. I already told the guy, it depends on the climbing situation. Two hours is good, I could go every weekend no problem.
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jackmarr
Aug 24, 2009, 1:14 PM
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Understand your sentiments. The indoor scene is great here though, and you can meet lots of other climbers. If you extend the time to crag to three to four hours, the possibilities are endless, especially for new trad stuff. Basically if you work here you have to settle for pulling plastic on workdays.
Drop me a line if you come to town! Jack
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guangzhou
Aug 25, 2009, 12:40 AM
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Thanks. I've been living in Asia long enough now, that not getting to real rock during the work week is just part of the game. If I move, I'll let you know for sure.
Putting up new routes and climbing existing routes both sound great. Three hours is very reasonable for a weekend trip.
Cheers,
Eman
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gregouf
Sep 8, 2009, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
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Hi,
Should be moving to Shanghai at the end of this year and looking for information.
- Seems the National Stadium is one of the best indoor place in Shanghai, is it possible to lead there or is it only top rope?
- Do you need to bring you own rope for the gym? It's the case in Japan where i'm living now.
- What other gyms could you recommend?
And another very important question, where is it possible to climb outdoor over the week-end not too far from Shanghai? Is it trad climbing or sport?
Cheers
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kadriye
Sep 23, 2009, 3:56 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2009
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hello Jack
I will arrive in Shanghai at the beginning of october
do you think I can join you one week end to go climbing near Hangzhou?
Kad, from France (sorry for my english, not very well)
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jackmarr
Sep 23, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2008
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We will be in and out of zhejiang (Yiwu, where my wife is from with a lot of good chossy limestone possibilities) during that time so drop a line! jack |
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muccitwo
Oct 12, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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Kind of late notice but I'll be in Suzhou from Oct. 14th thru Nov. 1st. It would be great to get out and do some climbing. Hangzhou or Yangshuo or hell even gym climbing in Shanghai would be fun.
Joe
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jackmarr
Oct 13, 2009, 5:59 AM
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Registered: May 11, 2008
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Hi Joe--
Interesting timing. I am planning on going to Suzhou this Friday on a quick biz trip and was going to spend the night. I heard there is some bouldering and some quarry routes there but not sure where exactly-- I heard about the bouldering from my friend Pachong and the routes from some locals I met at Nangaofeng lasr month. I can ask around, let me know if you are up for that and I can bring my shoes and perhaps harness. Probably not worth bringing rope and gear unless you know of a good place. My email is jackmarr@gmail.com if you are up for checking out the Suzhou scene!
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pacoutur
May 25, 2010, 11:37 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2010
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Hey, I'm in Hangzhou and I was wondering if anyone could suggest any climbing gyms or bouldering sites in the area.
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jackmarr
May 25, 2010, 1:07 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2008
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Hey Pacotur--
Liu Changzhong, a famous Chinese climber, opened a gym there last year with nice leads, bouldering, and speed climbing. The address is here in Chinese if you can read it:
http://rock-lizard.org/bbs/archiver/tid-3872.html
Also there are routes on Nangaofeng above West Lake (from 5.8-12b or so) and harder routes at Xiaoqingxian outside the city, up to 14a. Not much bouldering but a few big stones to play on at Nangaofeng.
Enjoy, Jack
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pacoutur
May 25, 2010, 11:25 PM
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Registered: May 25, 2010
Posts: 4
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Jack,
Thank you for the quick response, I'll definitely go check out Nangaofeng. I'm a student attending Zhejiang University for the summer, but I can't really read Chinese yet. I'll try to get one of my classmates to translate if for me, but if you could send me the pinyin translation I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Peter
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