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hikerobby
Jul 6, 2009, 1:56 AM
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Hey all,
I'm headed to Yosemite for the first time this september and I'm STOKED. The valley has alluded me for years for some reason, and I'm finally doing it. I'm hoping for some beta, not just on routes, but whatever pearls of wisdom you got to make the trip nice.
So, we'll be coming south from a week in the black rock desert and arriving on sep 8th. I climb 5.9 on lead, but not as confident when I'm 8 pitches up an exposed route (I'm training hard to improve on that though). So I'm planning to follow and share lead with my buddy up some classics like snake dike and royal arches, and whatever else he takes me up. He has his climbing buddies though, and I am asking for help with me and my partner. My girl friend is very new to climbing, learning quickly, but is not okay with exposure, so snike dike is out. She can TR a 5.9 usually, but thats her limit for sure. (We are training quickly to get her rope skills ready). For us, I'm thinking Cathedral Peak SE Buttress for SURE, and possibly Fairview Dome reg rt or Mt Conness WRidge.
In addition to Cathedral, I'm wondering what other routes people would suggest for us? I'll run up some stuff with my buddy whose there for two months, but for me and my gf what other routes would you suggest. Some valley routes in addition to the domes??
Also I'm curious about logistics. Where to sleep? (camp 4? Or do I have to be bad ass to sleep there? jk) We also want to get up into the high country. Ideally we want to do a 4 day backcountry trip, maybe just backpacking, then 1-2 over-night climbs in Tuolumne, and then day climbs. Of course any not-to-be-missed waterfalls, day hikes or other things to round out our trip would be appreciated. If there would be a big loop that hits certain high country climbs and a 4 day backpack, or if its best to sleep at camp 4 every night--just help me understand the lay out of the park.
So yeah, if any of you are like me and like playing tour guide I'd love to hear what you think would be a great 9 day trip. Even classic pizza, beer, and just random tidbits are helpful.
And if anyone wants me to plan an Oregon or Utah trip I can return the favor.
thx
robby
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hikerobby
Jul 7, 2009, 2:56 PM
Post #2 of 19
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anyone?
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budman
Jul 7, 2009, 3:35 PM
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Looking to be there about the same time and later. Look for the Old Red Toyota with Utard plates.
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hikerobby
Jul 7, 2009, 3:51 PM
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Cool. I spent 25 years as a utard. We'll be in a green imprezza (as if there aren't 1,000,000 of them) with a blue oregon biking plate.
I searched a little more and found some helpful beta:
As I said my buddy will haul me up some 5.9-10 routes but as for me and my gf, besides the domes in Tuaolume, it looks like The Grack and after six and swan slab will be good to start on. Then Nutcraker, bishops terrace, munginell, commitment, and knob hill will be good after those warmups.
I have some crack skills from indian creek and little cottonwood and moab but my gf doesn't, so we might be limited. Are all those climbs in the valley easy to get to?? I'm thinking 3-4 days backpacking, 2-3 days on domes and then 2-4 days climbing in the valley (those routes just listed).
Logistics: should I just get a 10 day wilderness permit for my whole trip so I can sleep whenever? Besides the 2-4 days at camp 4 climbing day stuff, I'd like to be in the high country backpacking and doing domes. Any good loop someone recommends? One that lets us climb in various high country spots, and with good backpacking too?
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unrooted
Jul 7, 2009, 4:13 PM
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You'll have a great time in the Valley, I spent a summer there and I couldn't even climb 5.9 crack at the time. The 5.6,7's and 8's are actually plentiful and won't scare the shit out of you. you can e-mail me if you really want to know more about the camping.
I should be working there from mid August to Novemberish and wouldn't mind showing you about.
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Gaia_Mind
Jul 7, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2008
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Northwest books, lembert dome. -warm up.
Conness is fun.
west country, statley pleasure dome.
lots of other run out moderates, dike route- piwyeak (sp?), great white book-statley pleasure. Tenaya peak. Just get the supertopo, www.supertopo.com
it will tell you all about camping too.
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hikerobby
Aug 26, 2009, 8:35 AM
Post #7 of 19
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Well, I've been training alot, getting better, feeling super confident placing pro and leading. we spent a day with a guide at smith and both feel superconfident in our rope management and multipitch skills. I have tuolumne and the valley supertopos and have a laundry list of routes to do. We also are extending the trip from ten days to three weeks! so now we'll be climbing in tuolumne for 6 days, backpacking from there to the valley and into ansel adams for 6 days, then climbing in the valley for the last week!
I have a few questions. First is about bears. So, when we are just climbing, we'll be in campgrounds and we put our food in lockboxes right?? Or if we sleep in the car the bears won't bother us? Then what about when we go backpacking? We'll have a canister, but what about food in the car? Do we need to get rid of all our food when we go backpacking, then buy more food when we return to our van?? Just wondering, I'm sure lots of people have coolers and food, maybe its just dumb luck that people get cars ripped apart.
Two, about my rack. I've always done well with a set of nuts and cams, but the pitches in yosemite are much longer than smith and portland so wondering what to take.
I have purple BD#4, old DMM#4 and #3.5
then doubles of DMM or BD from #2BD (dmm3) down to .4BD and #1DMM. Then two smaller DMMs. Do you think I'll need doubles down at the small end, maybe aliens? Or anything on the larger end?
I also have 8 24" runners, 2 48s, 11 QDraws or 12"runners, one cordallete and one 90" runner for anchors.
I have 3 sets of old nuts, I usually only use one. I heard you need 2 sets in the valley, is that a full set or one full set and extras of BD#6-10?
I feel like I'm pretty set, I'll just see when I get there--but I thought I'd ask.
Third, if anyone wants to take us out on a climb harder than I could lead, we'll buy you drinks afterwards. Or if you have a partner we could swap and learn different ways of doing things. We'll be in Tuolumne 30-sep4 and in camp 4 probably sep 10-16.
Any other advice or things not to miss??
Thanks!
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ladyscarlett
Aug 26, 2009, 9:36 AM
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hikerobby wrote: First is about bears. So, when we are just climbing, we'll be in campgrounds and we put our food in lockboxes right?? Or if we sleep in the car the bears won't bother us? Then what about when we go backpacking? We'll have a canister, but what about food in the car? Do we need to get rid of all our food when we go backpacking, then buy more food when we return to our van?? Just wondering, I'm sure lots of people have coolers and food, maybe its just dumb luck that people get cars ripped apart. Thanks!
There more people out there who know more, but I can answer this part of your question.
When you have a campsite, there will be a bear locker for your food/scented items. If you don't have a camp site for whatever reason, you should stash all food/scented items in public use bear lockers available in the Valley and TM. In the Valley, overflow parking has a ton and both areas right around trailheads. This is probably a good place to keep your post backpacing food. It's not a huge deal during the day, but important at night. When I'm there, I'll haul food to bear lockers if nothing else, but for piece of mind.
if you decide to sleep in your car at night, know that you might get hassled by rangers. Depending on when and where, they can consider it "illegal camping" is what the ranger told me. You might be just fine, but it seems to depend on the ranger and where you're parked. Even if you're sleeping in your car at night, put your food items in the locker. Last thing you want is to wake up face to face with a bear, even if it is on the other side of the glass.
When you go backpacking, you'll probably stash post trip food, coolers, etc into bear lockers that are near trail heads. Just remember which locker. Personally it's worth using bear lockers at night anytime in Yosemite just for the peace of mind.
While you're climbing, know that bears have been know to nab packs with food/scented items. Same with marmots so be on the lookout.
Good luck and have fun out there!
ls
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Gaia_Mind
Aug 26, 2009, 2:43 PM
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My rack has doubles down to green alien/blue Tcu (small finger size). Although Bd classifies that piece you mentioned as .4 (wide fingers), it is actually .7" in size I believe. get doubles of the next two smallest size, finger size - .6" yellow tcu/yellow alien/.3bd and small fingers - .5"green alien/blue TCU, and get singles down to Bd or metolius 0 or 00. Make sure you have brass too (micronuts). If you have that rack, you can climb anything here except the big VI stuff on el cap.
When you backpack, you put your extra food in a bear box. Food always in bear boxes no matter what, never in the car. Bears will break in. I think something like $50,000 of damage is done by bears to cars every year. You see them at the base of El Cap multiple times a day rippin up haul bags. It happens.
A few of my favorites: Dike route 5.9R, Pywyiak dome, tuo
on the lamb 5.9, lamb dome
cathedral peak 5.6
mathes crest 5.7
Valley:
East butt of middle IV 5.10 a (fifty crowded variation) better then origional line I feel
Reed's direct, Reed's buttress: old school 5.9
Central pillar frenzy 5.9, middle cathedral
serenity crack and sons of yesterday IV 10d, royal arches. Splittttttter.
So many others. Have fun! the grades are more stout than in smith rocks, be aware of this. Plus, if you do big stuff know that you will inevitably end up in fist, offwidth and chimney cracks, and these take longer than anticipatied.
This being said, there are very experienced teams who will probably be climbing these long routes who start later than you. If people are moving very quickly behind you, let them pass and it will be a bunch less stressful for everyone. I've had to lead pitches simultaneously with other asshole teams above to get by them, it can cause quite a scene if you aren't friendly about it. Just get to a nice belay, whip out some lunch and let the next team pass.
It is also illegal to sleep in a vehicle.
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hikerobby
Aug 26, 2009, 6:04 PM
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yeah I know the routes are stiff. My buddy might take me up 9s and easy 10s, for me and my partner, I'll be leading, so we're lookin at classic long 6s at first till we get used to the techniques and rock, then onto 7s and 8s.
I didn't want to confuse people over my assortment of gear: Basically I have a purple DMM and BD that 1" size, then a DMM 1 and metolius yellow 2, those are .75" (and doubles of everything above that) then I have an old DMM green and purple 4cu that are smaller than that. So I have 2 of every size from yellow alian and up (though I don't have the alien). So maybe just one green blue and black alien? Then I'll have doubles of everything below BD#2 and singles above that.
What about nuts??
Thanks for the bear info--so basically there are lockers everywhere, even trailheads, and we should always use them--- sweet, thanks!!
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 6:22 PM
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If you consider Snakedike out because of the exposure, I think you are going to have problems with other routes as well.
Tuolumne starts at 8000~9000 feet (with the peaks higher). Don't underestimate the effects of elevation if you are coming from lower elevations and are doing climbs with long approaches.
Cathedral is pretty mellow.
West ridge Conness is a great route. It is a long approach (or you can backpack in) and a long climb if you belay everything out (many/most parties free solo or simul-climb).
Fairview is pretty stiff for a semi-confident 5.9 leader and follower.
Tuolumne campground usually has spots open if you get there early in the morning.
Camp4 in the valley is a good place to start and you can learn more about options once there.
There are plenty of bear boxes and they should be used. A bear won't break into your car if you are sleeping in it, but I wouldn't recommend bandit sleeping in your car inside the park.
The waterfalls are pretty much dry and gone in September (come back in April).
Have a great time.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Aug 26, 2009, 6:28 PM)
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 6:34 PM
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hikerobby wrote: As I said my buddy will haul me up some 5.9-10 routes but as for me and my gf, besides the domes in Tuaolume, it looks like The Grack and after six and swan slab will be good to start on. Then Nutcraker, bishops terrace, munginell, commitment, and knob hill will be good after those warmups. I have some crack skills from indian creek and little cottonwood and moab but my gf doesn't, so we might be limited. Are all those climbs in the valley easy to get to?? I'm thinking 3-4 days backpacking, 2-3 days on domes and then 2-4 days climbing in the valley (those routes just listed). Logistics: should I just get a 10 day wilderness permit for my whole trip so I can sleep whenever?
Gack, After six, swan slab are pretty mellow. Nutcracker is a signficant step up. Commitment to Sellaginella is one of my favorite climbs, but it is also a bit of a step up.
Those climbs have mellow approaches.
E But of Middle is fairly straight forward but long. The 50 crowded variations might be a bit stiff.
I've not backpacked for a while, but permits are very limited. I'm not aware of any sort of "open" 10 day permit. Maybe someone else will chime in or you can search the NPS web site.
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 6:35 PM
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hikerobby wrote: What about nuts??
[Anymore], I usually just climbs on cams but if you have a limited rack, there are lots of nut placements on lots of routes.
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hikerobby
Aug 26, 2009, 8:28 PM
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The supertopo says double set of cams and nuts, I was just wondering about the reality of that. I have double cams, and I have two BD nut sets and one wildcountry, just wondering what others use. Maybe one full and just additional in the finger sizes??
As for routes, we're going to top rope, do 1-2 pitch stuff in tuolumne for a day or two before jumping on the bigger stuff--to acclimize. I wanted to start there b/c of the heat, then hide/hike in the backcountry over labor day, then enter the valley (for my FIRST TIME!!!) by foot through little yose or granite pt--then the valley may be less crowed mid sep then early sep.
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hikerobby
Aug 26, 2009, 8:42 PM
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I'm not ruling out snake dike, I want to do it--I just read its really run out. My buddy says we can def do it. Maybe after climbing in Tuolumne and then some warm ups in the valley, we'll take stab at snake dike, royal arches and nutcracker.
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 9:11 PM
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I would say that double cams and one set of nuts would be a standard rack. Double nuts are usually overkill (but they don't weigh much). I usually take triple (or more) cams in the finger sizes and single cams in the hands and up, but this is mainly just to save weight. Routes, of course vary.
Labor day can be packed and "getting away" is a good idea. I'm not sure that I would count on getting an overnight permit for labor day.
The overall crowds drop dramatically after labor day, but there will still be quite a few climbers around.
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alpenweg
Aug 26, 2009, 9:15 PM
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nice i too will be in yosemite on the 27th of september
traveling low budget will arrive on the YARTS bus from merced
@ 9 ish, to late to wait in line at camp 4
i am looking for a climber to help me out in this process
of a place to sleep the first night or 2 until i organize
a place to sleep
i will be in transit for a couple of days so tiredness will dictate to take it easy and catch some shut eye
please help out a fellow travel, climber
thanks in advance
yours in adventure
ernest sierras
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 9:15 PM
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hikerobby wrote: I'm not ruling out snake dike, I want to do it--I just read its really run out. My buddy says we can def do it. Maybe after climbing in Tuolumne and then some warm ups in the valley, we'll take stab at snake dike, royal arches and nutcracker.
In an earlier post you said you thought your GF would be afraid of the exposure on snake dike. If you are ruling it out for that reason alone..., other routes are also exposed. For instance, the west ridge of Conness is "up there" and other routes, like Fairview dome, can get you a thousand feet or more off the deck. That's all I was trying to say. If your partner is a noobie, make sure you are comfortable rapping a long way down (which happens to a lot of 5.9 climbers on their first valley trip--nothing wrong with that, just be prepared).
Although not as exposed, I thought the ~30 foot (? been a while) 5.7 runnout on the first pitch of snake dike was a harder lead than than the 80 foot 5.4 runnouts.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Aug 26, 2009, 9:19 PM)
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sspssp
Aug 26, 2009, 10:21 PM
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hikerobby wrote: Mt Conness WRidge.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=941468
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