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blueeyedclimber
Sep 11, 2009, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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What makes it perfect, you ask? Why was my weekend so much better than average? Maybe better than anyone else's? Well, let me tell you.
The scene is Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island in Maine. Labor Day Weekend. A 3 day weekend in one of the most beautiful places in the Northeast.
That's a good start, but that's not what makes it perfect. All 3 days were sunny with PERFECT temps in the 60's and 70's. We're getting closer, but still not perfect. If you haven't climbed in Acadia it has some of the cleanest granite and perfect lines on the east coast. Being so close to the sea, it is not bogged down with wet, mossy, licheny growth like some of the climbing in the northeast.
Almost there.
Those things in and of themselves would have anybody calling this a perfect weekend, but for me this last point is what makes it perfect. I spent all of this perfectness with the most amazing partner anyone could ever ask for......MY BEAUTIFUL and DARLING WIFE!!!!
Here's how the weekend went.
We started off on Friday by taking our daughter to The Killers concert at the TD Garden.
Who rocked, BTW!
Then we immediately met my daughter's mother and dropped her off. Then Tiff and I were off. From Boston to Acadia is about a 5 1/2 hour drive, so the plan was to find a cheap motel somewhere along the way and finish the drive Saturday morning. Well, there is no such thing as a cheap motel on the coast of Maine during Labor Day Weekend. But, we found one on our trusted iphone and called to see if they were open. The Lady happened to be up and said she would open the office for us. This is at 1 a.m. I was so appreciative, I didn't mind paying the $90.
By the time we got to Acadia, set up camp and got to the climbing area, the day was half over, so we opted for a couple good climbs we have done before that weren't too hard. Recollections of Pacifica (5.9-) and Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+).
Here's TIff following Green Mountain's first pitch.
Tiff actually led this pitch, but we did the pitch again the next day(with me leading) to get to another climb, which Tiff led.
After doing a couple climbs, it was getting late so we decided to go for dinner, and get an early start for the next day.
The next day we had a plan for both of us to get on a couple climbs that challenged us. Her goal was Wet Lithuanian (5.10b) and mine was Jaws (5.11b). The goal was to do the first 2 pitches of Pressure Drop (5.8) to the last pitch of Chitlins Corner (5.10a).
Here's TIff reaching the belay before the last pitch of Chitlin's.
And here she is following Chitlin's (Btw, pretty much all the pictures are of Tiff. I figure she's prettier to look at than me, anyways )
Then from here, we were going to rappel to the ground, get some food and water and head up towards Wet Lithuanian. You start from the same place we already were and you head up the first pitch of Green Mountain Breakdown. Instead of going right around the roof, you head left and follow a crack system that crosses Jaws and ends up at the ending of Chitlin's Corner.
Here's Tiff leading Wet Lithuanian. Sorry about the picture size. I accidentally submitted this one too small.
Tiff did a great job in sticking with it, btw!
Next we were to rappel to the base of the Jaws crack, which is about 2/3 of the way up the first pitch of Chitlin's Corner, and build an anchor. Well, we never made it to this part of the plan for a couple reasons. One, I have not felt very strong lately and did not have confidence in my ability to send it clean. I had already fallen on this climb a little over a year ago. Now, just because I wasn't feeling strong doesn't mean I chickened out. I have no problem falling on stuff. But, that reason kind of led to my second reason. Because, I might take a while doing it, Tiff would be subjected to a hanging belay for longer, which she told she would have done.....but for the fact that it was starting to get cold out and all she had was her climbing top on. I was getting chilly belaying her on the last pitch, so I KNOW that she would have been FREEZING!
So, I made a decision to try a different climb of the same grade that I could do in one pitch from the ground, called Rusticator (5.11b). This is also a climb which I fell on last year. This climb has a short, but devious crux. I figured my endurance was shot, but if I could remember how to do the crux, then I might be able to send this one. I didn't. 
So....off to dinner yet again to discuss the next day.
We decided on Great Head and specifically, The Head Arete (5.10d). This is a beautiful climb on a seaside cliff which has been on my list for a while. This is the third day climbing, and I never really felt strong to begin with, but I really wanted to do it. 99% of the time, I onsight 10's, so I felt pretty good about it. I sent and it was GREAT. The real crux of this climb is belaying your second.
Picture this. The tide is coming in crashing against the rock pretty close to the base of the climb. Tiff had to belay a little off to the side as to not get wet. The last thing in the world I wanted to do was fall, pulling her towards the sea. The start of the climb is over hanging and the crux of the climb is getting past the second bolt. After this section, you have a vertical section followed by a ledge which leads to a final slightly overhanging section leading to the top of the cliff.
With the combination of the crashing waves, the wind, and the overhang, there was NO possible way to hear her. The initial overhang was tough for her and I knew TIff wanted something but I could not tell what it was. Only by the escalating screams, did I figure it out. After a few screams, I just made a decision to keep as tight as possible. Once she got past the crux, she felt better and so did I.
She was kind of exhausted and mentally drained, so we decided to start heading home, which was good because it gave us time to go to Freeport and do some outlet shopping. Good deals abounded.
Oh, I did take ONE picture of myself.
I told you she was prettier!
Seaside climbing, a little shopping, and spending 3 days with the one you love. Yup, I can't think of anything more perfect. Can you?
Josh
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cracklover
Sep 11, 2009, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Very cool! Thanks for sharing! And Great Head Arete is a goal of mine, too, if I ever make it back that way.
Cheers!
GO
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caughtinside
Sep 11, 2009, 3:40 PM
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Looks like a fun trip, thanks for the photos. I especially like the one with the bolt right next to the crack. hah!
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 11, 2009, 3:47 PM
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Actually, that's an illusion. That is another crack on the face. I didn't protect in the corner so I would block my good holds.  Out here in the northeast, they don't bolt next to cracks. I believe you can be hanged for that. 
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wonderwoman
Sep 11, 2009, 4:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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I totally agree! What a perfect weekend! And a perfect life together!
You'll get Jaws and I'll exit the correct way on Wet Lithuanian (Josh's TR doesn't mention that I accidentally finished on Jaws) AND get it clean next time. It's a date!
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jrathfon
Sep 11, 2009, 4:46 PM
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awesome TR guys! making me jealous! i left new england right when the good temps hit, another month of mid 80's for me! i've made the move to KY and the trad in the Red is freakin' awesome (shhhhh!), you got a place to crash at, or a ride to the gorge from the airport (louisville) anytime you'd like, you might have to belay me though ;)
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 11, 2009, 4:48 PM
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jrathfon wrote: awesome TR guys! making me jealous! i left new england right when the good temps hit, another month of mid 80's for me! i've made the move to KY and the trad in the Red is freakin' awesome (shhhhh!), you got a place to crash at, or a ride to the gorge from the airport (louisville) anytime you'd like, you might have to belay me though ;)
We might hold you to that. We haven't been down there yet.
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jrathfon
Sep 11, 2009, 4:55 PM
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please do! i can't believe the long list of 3-5 star 9-11 trad i MUST do. tack on the fact that this is the US 5.12 sport climbing mecca and we're good to go! bring wallaby down too! maybe that gmburns character... maybe...
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 11, 2009, 5:03 PM
Post #9 of 19
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jrathfon wrote: please do! i can't believe the long list of 3-5 star 9-11 trad i MUST do. tack on the fact that this is the US 5.12 sport climbing mecca and we're good to go! bring wallaby down too! maybe that gmburns character... maybe...
I assume by wallaby, you mean Jen (ratherbe), but Burns, I don't know....we might end up on his blog...heh heh. (j/k Greg)
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boymeetsrock
Sep 11, 2009, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
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Sweet TR and nice climbs! I have to get out there for climbing one day!
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Gmburns2000
Sep 11, 2009, 5:06 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jrathfon wrote: please do! i can't believe the long list of 3-5 star 9-11 trad i MUST do. tack on the fact that this is the US 5.12 sport climbing mecca and we're good to go! bring wallaby down too! maybe that gmburns character... maybe... I assume by wallaby, you mean Jen (ratherbe), but Burns, I don't know....we might end up on his blog...heh heh. (j/k Greg)
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jrathfon
Sep 11, 2009, 5:07 PM
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woops, my bad, don't tell her i messed up her name, i fear her wrath!
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i_h8_choss
Sep 11, 2009, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2007
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awsome TR.! this is why I click on rc.com. not for "church of harding" wtf? no offense
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kachoong
Sep 11, 2009, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Great trip report, BEC! Makes us want to head there one day!
You guys are such a sweet couple!
Looks like you had the best weather! Down here today is the first day below 90 in a very long time! Finally climbing weather is here!
Keep climbing and thanks for sharing!
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charley
Sep 11, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Sounds like a perfect weekend.
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ratherbe
Sep 11, 2009, 7:58 PM
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Thanks for the great TR BEC! I'm glad you guys had such a good weekend.
ratherbe
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epoch
Moderator
Sep 11, 2009, 8:12 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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You guys should have called!!!
I live 1/2 way between your place and Acadia, and I'm right on the way... no need to sidetrack to get to where I am.
Glad you guys had a great weekend.
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AntinJ
Sep 11, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Looks awesome, nice TR Josh. Makes me want to explore Acadia!
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 12, 2009, 7:02 PM
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epoch wrote: You guys should have called!!! I live 1/2 way between your place and Acadia, and I'm right on the way... no need to sidetrack to get to where I am. Glad you guys had a great weekend.
Are you saying you would have opened YOUR office at 1 am?
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