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kelbro28
Oct 29, 2009, 6:53 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2009
Posts: 6
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looking for advice for building my trad rack. mainly for the cracks at horseshoe but sam's and areas nearby as well. from what i've seen it looks like i need alot of hand and larger type gear but would like input. thanks
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dolphja
Oct 29, 2009, 7:02 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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i just got back from sam's and cave creek this past weekend. on one route i used nothing but nuts and small hexes. i found that your mid range cams will come in handy for most of the sam's climbs. i haven't done any trad at HCR yet
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jolery
Nov 5, 2009, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2008
Posts: 173
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I haven't done much trad at HCR, but at other Arkansas crags I end up using BD cams #1 and #2 more than other sizes, also Metolius TCU's or equivalent are good shit, especially the smaller ones 00, 0, 1 - I'm constantly plugging those guys in, they're really versatile and work great on Arkansas horizontals and other features.
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crzdriver
Nov 16, 2009, 2:32 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 198
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We don't have many "splitter" type cracks here, so it is not uncommon to find a crack that starts with small hands turn into a double-fisted monster at the top. My advice around here would be to keep your rack diverse and flexible. That should define your style around here as well. The passive stuff may be cheap, but learn to put it in correctly! Good luck!
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bigfatrock
Jan 5, 2010, 5:19 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2006
Posts: 1321
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I have climbed several trad routes at HCR. I haven't really placed anything above a BD #4 and that was only one one route, Dancing Bear. I may have even done it without the #4, can't remember for sure. You should climb Gilgamesh Vagina though in the Confederate Cracks area, it's an awesome 5.9 off width climb. I don't think the rating is too accurate though as I have yet to do a trad route above 5.8 other than that one.
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