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rockrock513
Dec 3, 2009, 12:23 AM
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has anyone used both the Freney and either the Nepal Evo, or Batura?
I'm interested in how they compare across the board...
From fit to climbing steep ice.
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rockrock513
Dec 5, 2009, 1:31 AM
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Okay if you have used any of these boots give us some feedback.
Thanks
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flying_dutchman
Dec 5, 2009, 3:35 AM
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the shear popularity of the la Sportiva Nepal's should tell you something. Google reviews if your still not certain; they're everywhere. That said, i prefer Scarpa
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rockrock513
Dec 5, 2009, 4:25 AM
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Thanks F_D.
What I'm looking for are more compliments to the reviews I've read.
Could you tell us why you prefer the Scarpa over the Sportiva?
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rockrock513
Dec 5, 2009, 4:30 AM
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One thing I'm curious aboot is the asymetrical last of the Scarpa Freney XT, and how much will that help/improve front pointing over the traditional straight last of the Sportiva.
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flying_dutchman
Dec 5, 2009, 5:48 AM
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sorry, never used either boot outside, just had good and bad experiences with other makes from those two brands. My ice boots are kaylands
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sungam
Dec 5, 2009, 10:43 PM
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I have the scarpa freneys. The fit is fantastic and actually fits my heels better then the evos, but I have kinda funky feet.
They're stiffer then some size 13 boots I've used.
The a-symmetric sole makes using symmetric 'pons uncomfortable. I have the gsb g14's and I can say comfort and performance are excellent. I have limited experiance with other good boots, though (the pair I used for my first 2 or 3 seasons were shit as fuck).
The gsb system is surprisingly good.
I'd say one of the best points of the freney is the mobility of the ankle-you can put your foot side on (I call it french techniqueing, dunno what you would call it) on pretty steep smears/mushrooms. The Evo's, from what I've seen (2 of my partners use them) don't seem to be as flexible.
The Evo's also seem to be warmer, but the freneys are still fairly warm and the gore-tex version are perfectly waterproof (although earlier versions are definitely not).
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granite_grrl
Dec 6, 2009, 12:10 AM
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If your buying them for steep ice? Overhanging drytooling too? You're going to have to think about the weight of the boots too. Of course this depends on how big your feet are too.
Do you have a narrow foot (Sportiva is generally narrow from what I understand)? Another fairly narrow boot are the Vasques. Something like the M-Possible SS is surprisingly light as well.
I'm sorry I didn't specifically answer your questions, but thought this might be relevant depending on your climbing style.
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rockrock513
Dec 6, 2009, 2:14 AM
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sungam wrote: I have the scarpa freneys. The fit is fantastic and actually fits my heels better then the evos, but I have kinda funky feet. They're stiffer then some size 13 boots I've used. The a-symmetric sole makes using symmetric 'pons uncomfortable. I have the gsb g14's and I can say comfort and performance are excellent. I have limited experiance with other good boots, though (the pair I used for my first 2 or 3 seasons were shit as fuck). The gsb system is surprisingly good. I'd say one of the best points of the freney is the mobility of the ankle-you can put your foot side on (I call it french techniqueing, dunno what you would call it) on pretty steep smears/mushrooms. The Evo's, from what I've seen (2 of my partners use them) don't seem to be as flexible. The Evo's also seem to be warmer, but the freneys are still fairly warm and the gore-tex version are perfectly waterproof (although earlier versions are definitely not).
Great feedback, I'm really stoked on the Freney right now!
I was leaning towards the Batura for extra warmth, but I think now the asym sole and stiffness will provide better climbing. I'd rather feel super solid on my climbing with a little colder feets than have warm feets, but sacrifice performance...
Buuuttt..I'm a total ice gumby and don't know how I'll hold up to the cold...YIKES!
What type of temps have you had the Freneys in? Also, how do they perform for long approaches?
Thanks!
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rockrock513
Dec 6, 2009, 2:43 AM
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granite_grrl wrote: If your buying them for steep ice? Overhanging drytooling too? You're going to have to think about the weight of the boots too. Of course this depends on how big your feet are too. Do you have a narrow foot (Sportiva is generally narrow from what I understand)? Another fairly narrow boot are the Vasques. Something like the M-Possible SS is surprisingly light as well. I'm sorry I didn't specifically answer your questions, but thought this might be relevant depending on your climbing style.
Yeah, steep ice for sure. Some overhanging yes, drytooling....we'll see.
i wear size 48, so I'm thinking of weight, and stiffness for sure.
I wouldn't say I have narrow feet at all, but low volume, high arch...
Thanks for all the feedback!
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sungam
Dec 6, 2009, 9:41 AM
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rockrock513 wrote: Buuuttt..I'm a total ice gumby and don't know how I'll hold up to the cold...YIKES! What type of temps have you had the Freneys in? Also, how do they perform for long approaches?
As for temps... well, I haven't been in super low temps to be honest. The coldest was on Stairway in Silverton, but I can't really comment since I had cinched them up too tight and we epic'ed a little - my feet got fairly cold. Most of the times I've used them is Scottish winter, where they've been fine, and in the ouray ice park, were they've also been fine.
As a side note, you should go to Ouray for the fest - good times.
Also, it may be worth paying a little more to buy the boots at REI instead of finding the best deal on the net, in case you find yourself wishing you had the other model.
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go_dyno
Dec 10, 2009, 7:47 PM
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I have low volume feet and have always been a La Sportiva addict. I wear the Evos and love them, but I have recently found Kayland boots as "the other" low volume boot and love my Kayland Vertigos for hiking and will be looking at Kayland boots for my next ice boots to try. The Baturas fit differently than the Evos to me.
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herbertpowell
Dec 12, 2009, 2:10 PM
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The fit between Scarpa and Sportiva is very different, so keep that in mind.
I tried to use a pair of Sportiva Makalus for a number of years, but they beat my feet to hell because they were so narrow.
The Scarpas actually fit, which is the most important thing.
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shadylady
Dec 12, 2009, 6:03 PM
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Another great (overlooked) choice would be Lowas. They are wider in the toe box than the others listed here. That tends to keep your feet warmer than cramming them into tight boots. Unless you have narrow feet... Depends on fit. I wear Nepal Evos (although I'd like to try something else!)and my boyfriend uses Lowa Ice Expert GTXs. He had about 8 pairs of Sportivas- Trangos, Nepals, etc.- and always had cold feet. Switching to Lowa made a HUGE difference in his comfort level. He climbs everything from grade 5+ to M7? in them. All in all, fit is paramount! Try on as many models as you can and go from there...
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rockrock513
Dec 12, 2009, 6:41 PM
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shadylady wrote: Another great (overlooked) choice would be Lowas. They are wider in the toe box han the others listed here. I looked at Lowa, but they only have one single boot in a us 14, and I couldn't find anyone who used it for ice.
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rockrock513
Dec 12, 2009, 6:44 PM
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I ordered a pair of the Freney XT so if the fit is good it's on!
It looks like if the fit is to wide, I'll pony up for the Baturas.
And if the fit is to small.... IDK!
But I'm stoked!!! I think these will fit good!  
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edge
Dec 12, 2009, 6:52 PM
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Proper fit will lead to warmer feet than ill-fitting boots that are "rated" warmer.
Sounds like you made a wise choice. Happy vertical drips to you, sir!
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mattsheat
Dec 15, 2009, 3:55 AM
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Just wondering how these relate in terms of fit and warmth to the Scarpa Cumbre which are no longer produced?
Thanks
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scotty1974
Dec 16, 2009, 9:43 PM
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So basically they don't work well with BD or Petzl crampons? I've been looking at the Freney's as well, but I'm not upgrading my crampons any time soon.
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rockrock513
Dec 17, 2009, 1:47 AM
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PHUUCH!!!
These motherlickers are to freaking small!!!!!! To short and to narrow!!!!!!!!
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rockrock513
Dec 17, 2009, 2:24 AM
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FOR SALE BRAND FUCKING NEW SCARPA FRENEY XT>>>SIZE 48 $350
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rockrock513
Dec 17, 2009, 2:46 AM
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Can a boot fitter stretch out the toe box on these?
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mikebee
Dec 17, 2009, 9:53 AM
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Can you return them to where you bought them from?
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rockrock513
Dec 17, 2009, 2:03 PM
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If I take out the insole I get probably enough room to live with...
What can a boot fitter achieve in terms of stretching a boot like this?
A return would probably be more pita than just selling them. I would like to see if they can be modded...
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sungam
Dec 17, 2009, 2:11 PM
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scotty1974 wrote: So basically they don't work well with BD or Petzl crampons? I've been looking at the Freney's as well, but I'm not upgrading my crampons any time soon.
Edit to add: You could always stick with your current campons and just pick up a assymetric centre bar. Might work.
To the OP - return them, it probably won't be that much of a pita. Stretching them will just fuck them up. Seriously.
(This post was edited by sungam on Dec 17, 2009, 2:12 PM)
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