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kirkiboi
Jan 6, 2010, 4:06 PM
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Is a Tibloc a safe alternative for climbing solo if a gri gri or mini traxion isnt available?
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erolls
Jan 6, 2010, 4:18 PM
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You could probably get away with it in an emergency on TR but I won't recommend it. I won't use anything with teeth and a tibloc is paramount to soloing on prussics.
Don't die.
Cheers -E
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dudemanbu
Jan 6, 2010, 4:20 PM
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Depends. I personally wouldn't use one without a backup, and never for lead solo. I have used one to back up my cinch (sorry mal). If you take a fall with a few feet of slack it will shred your rope (unless it's a large diameter and you're pretty light and very lucky). I'd personally rather use a clove hitch to solo than a single tibloc.
(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Jan 6, 2010, 4:26 PM)
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boymeetsrock
Jan 6, 2010, 4:21 PM
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kirkiboi wrote: Is a Tibloc a safe alternative for climbing solo if a gri gri or mini traxion isnt available?
NO ! Period.
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cracklover
Jan 6, 2010, 4:22 PM
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Yeah, I miss recdot too.
G
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cracklover
Jan 6, 2010, 4:24 PM
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How about placing a tibloc on intermediate pieces while simulclimbing? Is that a safe practice?
GO
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chrisJoosse
Jan 6, 2010, 8:43 PM
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erolls wrote: a tibloc is paramount to soloing on prussics.  ). This might be less a factor in a belay situation with low force-factor falls and dynamic line, but this difference in behavior between a friction knot and a toothed ascender should still be understood.
I've ascended with a tibloc, and though I tried to be careful, I managed to burr my rope anyhow. Even if a tibloc were safe to use as an unattended belay, it's stupid for that reason alone- load the rope without care and you'll quickly have a rope not worth using. It would be cheaper to use an auto-blocking belay device or (possibly) toothless one-way devices like the WC Ropeman- that is, if you're determined to climb with an unattended belay setup and think that's an acceptable risk.
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dolphja
Jan 6, 2010, 9:34 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: kirkiboi wrote: Is a Tibloc a safe alternative for climbing solo if a gri gri or mini traxion isnt available? NO ! Period.
yea, fall forces + devices with teeth + rope = sheered sheath & crater. you can ascend with it, but using it for solo climbing? NO!
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quiteatingmysteak
Jan 6, 2010, 10:21 PM
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wouldn't it be safer to douse your rope in honey and give it to a bear?
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dugl33
Jan 6, 2010, 10:54 PM
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How come so many of these self belay threads don't clearly express the difference between TR self belay and lead self belay in the post?
Tibloc for lead, no way in hell. Better off making your own out of a beer can and putting the 30 bucks toward life insurance.
For TR, I would consider a Tibloc to be your worst choice of the available alternatives. For around the same amount of money you can buy a wild country mk-2 and have something much more solid.
One or two mini traxions are commonly used -- known by some as the yosemite method.
Some will argue but I also trust my petzl croll, with shoulder sling. Optionally fix the line on a screamer with a pooch in the line to doubled biners on the master point. Use a separate line or the other half of the line, refixed, for manual back up knots. Depending on rope diameter Crolls rupture the sheath around 1000 lbs, so I figure fairly static hangs are ok, and this was documented as a use by petzl at one time. I like the screamer since theoretically the load will remain below 500 lbs if you drop on it a bit too hard. Properly rigged on straight lines with a bit of weight at the bottom (around a liter of waters worth), I never develop slack in the line. I keep an eye on this. The other line is in case things somehow go wrong...
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codhands
Jan 7, 2010, 12:02 AM
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To quote:
Samir: Yes, this is horrible, this idea.
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wallwombat
Jan 7, 2010, 4:27 AM
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I like Tiblocs but the key to using them and not damaging your rope is manually seating the Tibloc before you weight it. If you don't push the little buggers down to engage the teeth you can easily shred a rope. FOr this reason alone I think they would make a crap device for self belay.
WC Ropeman II is the go.
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Carnage
Jan 7, 2010, 6:26 PM
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dolphja wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: kirkiboi wrote: Is a Tibloc a safe alternative for climbing solo if a gri gri or mini traxion isnt available? NO ! Period. yea, fall forces + devices with teeth + rope = sheered sheath & crater. you can ascend with it, but using it for solo climbing? NO!
petzl ascenders, and mini traxions (which are both rated for TR self belay) both have teeth.
i believe the reason these are safer than the tibloc is because the teeth are on the moving cam. As the teeth are pulled up the cam closes. This (as far as i can tell) distributes the downward force between the teeth(being just in the sheath) and the squishing of the rope(which engages the core in the holding action).
With the tibloc, since the teeth are on one side and the "cam" is on the other side (it is not really a cam and generates a lot less squish) more of the force is being held the teeth. This is what causes the tearing that everyone talks about.
side note: ascenders and mini traxions will tear ropes too, it just takes more force.
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