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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 27, 2010, 6:52 PM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
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desertwanderer81 wrote: mackiethe1for wrote: Hey! first thread haha, anyways just got into climbing a couple of weeks ago with my brother and we are building a nice rack so far! we just got our set of stoppers from Black Diamond 1-13: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection/stopperr-set-pro-no-1-13 They seem great but what are stoppers 1-2 supposed to be used for? i mean the instructions say they musnt be used as a fall arrest protection so what do you use them for? hehe, another thing i understand a KN is a measure of force and from what i have learnt A KN is of about 100 Kg of weight is that right? and one last thing! how do you carry stoppers? do you put them all in one carabiner or do you put one on each quickdraw? Thanks a lot guys! i hope to start using them this weekend. I can't believe that no one has asked the "troll?" question yet! Don't start leading trad without first following someone who knows what they're doing. Nough said.
And don't surf the internet if you're not ready to hear somebody's all-knowing, all-applicable, no-exceptions way of doing something.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 27, 2010, 6:53 PM
Post #52 of 55
(597 views)
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: mackiethe1for wrote: Hey! first thread haha, anyways just got into climbing a couple of weeks ago with my brother and we are building a nice rack so far! we just got our set of stoppers from Black Diamond 1-13: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection/stopperr-set-pro-no-1-13 They seem great but what are stoppers 1-2 supposed to be used for? i mean the instructions say they musnt be used as a fall arrest protection so what do you use them for? hehe, another thing i understand a KN is a measure of force and from what i have learnt A KN is of about 100 Kg of weight is that right? and one last thing! how do you carry stoppers? do you put them all in one carabiner or do you put one on each quickdraw? Thanks a lot guys! i hope to start using them this weekend. I can't believe that no one has asked the "troll?" question yet! Don't start leading trad without first following someone who knows what they're doing. Nough said. And don't surf the internet if you're not ready to hear somebody's all-knowing, all-applicable, no-exceptions way of doing something.
And don't surf RC.com if you're not prepared to lose the PTFTW.
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qtm
Jan 27, 2010, 7:12 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 548
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As others have said, you don't really want to rely on them to hold a fall.
But they have uses. You can use them for directionals and oppositional pieces. Most likely, in those uses, they're not going to experience falls directly and thus should hold.
You can use them to grab the trigger of a cam that's walked into a crack.
As ADK says, you can anchor a dog. Or you can build a small anchor to keep your pack off the ground away from those pesky little dogs who want to eat your lunch. Or just to keep your pack from rolling down the talus field.
As Angry says, there's no reason not to carry them. They do come in handy now and then.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 27, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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qtm wrote: As others have said, you don't really want to rely on them to hold a fall. You can use them for directionals and oppositional pieces.
IF you don't trust it to hold much weight I wouldn't use it as a directional if it popping is going to add a lot of slack to the system.
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mic_72
Feb 1, 2010, 4:26 PM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 9
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I carry two sets of nuts, one for each side. And I want them to be two different kinds as some nuts work better than others in different situations. On one side I have a mixture of DMM offsets and WC superlight rocks, on the other side a set of DMM wallnuts. I carry each full set on its own carabiner.
Regarding the smallest nuts... Carry them. If you can't get anything else in, well, something is better than nothing.
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