Hello,

Long time lurker, but couldn't find what I was looking for so made an account.

I have a handful of ugly slopers bolted to a joice in my basement that I am hanging off of to train open hand strength, but it's getting to the point where it's more of an endurance workout than increasing my strength on slopers in general.

I am thinking of building something like the image below to keep the progess going, but don't know what a good or realistic angle would be. Is 45 and 30 enough? Should I throw a 15 or 20 degree angle on there as well and get rid of the small rail?

For background, I've been climbing for over 3 years and am pretty solid on easier 5.12 routes and can send 12c and sometimes d with concentrated effort. I've managed to avoid injury so far so I like to think I know how to avoid injury due to overstressing joints, etc.

Thanks in advance for the help,

-steve

I'm not sure what your .gif is trying to capture. You can always up the ante by:

a) buying slopers that are more henious.
b) adding weight.

These are just easier solutions. As far as your angle question, I have a climbing board that overhangs 60 degrees (e.g., it's built on a frame with two equilateral triangles) and find that hanging the slopers is pretty tricky. Good luck.

if you're making this out of wood and you're a 5.12 climber, 20 degrees will feel quite easy. you will probably be able to one arm them. (for reference i'm a v8 boulderer and i'm starting to do 13s. however i consider myself relatively "weak" at slopers compared to v8 climbers who do sloper problems)

Remember this is all dependent on the friction of the wood you're using. some woods are glassier than others. my experience is on a sanded pine kind of wood. also of note, wood will be sticker with a little moisture, so the weather you're hanging the board in will also affect it.
25 is prob where you want to start as a good warm up sloper.
35 is relatively difficult but not too bad.
45 will feel absolutely impossible to you without a lot of nestle for a long ass time.

as you approach the 45, it doesn't really get incrementally harder, it gets exponentially harder. so an increase from 35 to 36 will be easier than an increase from 44-45.

good luck crankin

lol. let me know how that 55 goes. i don't think even chris sharma could hold a 55 degree sloper unless he put sandpaper on top. for bare wood, i think the tops is around 48 for sickly strong climbers. since you're a 5.12+ climber, i wouldn't go above 45.

Definitely try hanging on what you have with added weight - but be sure to add the weight slowly. A harness, biner and sling should all the gear you really need. And some weights, of course.

I guess in the area of 5lbs at a time would be considered slowly?

sorry, but I do gotta say...it is a joist you are using, not a joice

I'll start with the disclaimer that this is not advice, only a personal experience.

I don't even notice added weight until around 15 lbs. I think this is because I'm used to climbing with the weight of my rack on my harness. So when I do weighted campusing/hanging, i usually add the 10 lb weight vest and 2 5 lb ankle weights, and add from there.

My recommendation to you is if you're used to climbing with a rack, you can probably start with more than just 5 lbs. If you've never done hypergravity of any kind before, 5 lbs might not be a bad place to start.