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AntinJ
Mar 8, 2010, 5:53 PM
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:'(
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robbovius
Mar 8, 2010, 5:58 PM
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yeah, I agree. during my last couple weekends there, I had an epiphany about my tool technique, and was just starting to get a real clue as to what I was doing...not I'll have to wait until next winter. given that my foot stil has a really hard time on the hikes, I suppose another 6 months of recovery won't be so bad ;-/
also, after swapping my cyborgs for my austrialpin slipstreams one weekend, I got the idea to recontour the points on my cyborgs so that they were initially narrower and displaced less ice onthe initial kick. lo and behold it worked! i got much better and easier front points after the mod.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Mar 8, 2010, 5:59 PM)
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AntinJ
Mar 10, 2010, 3:21 PM
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Robb; I like the mod idea - kind of like a supersized mono for soft ice?
Looks like I'll have to head north to get more ice in....
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Gmburns2000
Mar 16, 2010, 4:55 PM
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Finally! The TR for Red Rocks is up. Jen and I were out there for two days in Feb, and I called this one Good Partners.
Also, I can climb midweek or weekends with folks if needed. I'm in Maine at the moment, so my preference is to avoid those one-day jobbies unless they're in NH, but I'm pretty flexible. I will be out in CO for most of April, though. Otherwise, shoot me a line and let's get out.
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centmass2
Mar 18, 2010, 10:25 PM
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I haven't climbed in a while and am looking to get back into it. I decided to check out rockclimbing.com and was amazed to find it much as it was in 2003. I was also shocked to find this thread still around! It is funny to read my posts (centmass) seven years later. I can't believe some of the same posters are still active! Way to stick with it.
I went for my first climb today at Crow Hill. I did a few routes on the practice face (Boardwalk). It was awesome! There has been some erosion and downed limbs but otherwise it is much like I remember it.
I am looking for people to climb with. I live next to Crow Hill so if you climb there often let me know!
Thanks
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AntinJ
Mar 22, 2010, 5:29 PM
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Solid Rock & Ice weekend for me.
Climbed Dracula & Standard Route at Frankenstein on Saturday (things are really softening up), then drove straight to the 'Gunks for a season opener. We managed to get on High Corner, Shockley's, Three Doves and Arrow. Lot's of driving, but a great way to kick off the season! Any other Mass climbers in New Paltz this weekend?
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 5:40 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Solid Rock & Ice weekend for me. Climbed Dracula & Standard Route at Frankenstein on Saturday (things are really softening up), then drove straight to the 'Gunks for a season opener. We managed to get on High Corner, Shockley's, Three Doves and Arrow. Lot's of driving, but a great way to kick off the season! Any other Mass climbers in New Paltz this weekend?
Was going to, but not now. Sounds like it was a good weekend for you, though.
Did you finish High Corner with Moonlight? That last pitch is my favorite in the 'Gunks.
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AntinJ
Mar 22, 2010, 5:57 PM
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I didn't even think to link the two pitches....
However I thought the finish to High Corner (Chock stone + small roof) was the best part of the route.
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losbill
Mar 22, 2010, 6:08 PM
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Jason --- Sounds like a lot of fun.
A few years ago a friend and I did the Crow Hill bialthon. Skied to the top of Wachusett and down in the morning and rock climbing at Crow Hill. Need to add the mountain bike leg to make it a trialthon. Crow Hill on Sa and Farley on Su. Lots of friends and acquiantances and fun climbing on both days. Also BITD Bonnie and I did several weekends of one day at Rumney and one day skiing at Waterville.
--- Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Mar 23, 2010, 1:15 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 6:09 PM
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AntinJ wrote: I didn't even think to link the two pitches.... However I thought the finish to High Corner (Chock stone + small roof) was the best part of the route.
Jen might be able to chime in, but when we went up to do Moonlight she said it was better to do the first pitch of High Corner and the second pitch of Moonlight because the opposite pitches weren't worth much for pitches (or maybe there's another pitch in there that I'm forgetting). Anyway, she said linking the two was better than doing each individually.
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AntinJ
Mar 22, 2010, 6:18 PM
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Yeah I've heard that about the hangers. I know the 10.c (Salty Dog?) to the right of Eye Opener @ Farley is Painted, however neither of the bolts on Wiessner Route are painted?
I like the bi-athalon/tri-athalon idea....
This Saturday we are planning on roping up and climbing Pinnacle Gully, then descending to the base of Tuckerman's, then hiking back up Ol' Geroge to the summit and then skiing/snowboarding out. I hope the weather gets better!
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alorama
Mar 22, 2010, 7:56 PM
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Just a standard Spring heads up. Was at QQ yesterday and a fella said that there is a big boulder (he orated it as about a ton in size) that was really loose on a route in the Reflector Oven area. I did not get the pinpoint location. Next time I go back, hopefully WED, I will check it out.
On the 5.8 corner, one of the starting holds, that was always loose, feels like it is about to give if someone yards on it.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 8:32 PM
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losbill wrote: ... Very smart idea to eliminate getting up on something and realizing you need the rack. --- Bill
huh, that's interesting. I can't tell if I like the idea or not. I guess since there isn't a guidebook then helps people who don't know the area. hmmm...
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Mar 23, 2010, 2:38 PM)
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olderic
Mar 22, 2010, 9:24 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: huh, that's interesting. I can't tell if I like the idea or not. I guess since there isn't a guidebook then helps people who don't know the area. hmmm...
Inevitable. As much as the core WMCC "didn't want another Rumney" - when they put out the appeal to the broad base they had to have a product that would appeal to the broad base.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 9:41 PM
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olderic wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: huh, that's interesting. I can't tell if I like the idea or not. I guess since there isn't a guidebook then helps people who don't know the area. hmmm... Inevitable. As much as the core WMCC "didn't want another Rumney" - when they put out the appeal to the broad base they had to have a product that would appeal to the broad base.
makes one wonder when the guidebook is coming out, too. I mean, if they want to pay down that mortgage and all, they're going to need some numbers.
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losbill
Mar 22, 2010, 9:53 PM
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 11:35 PM
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losbill wrote: Eric --- what do you mean when you say? In reply to: when they put out the appeal to the broad base they had to have a product that would appeal to the broad base.
I won't put words in his mouth, but I assumed it to mean that they need cash to pay the mortgage on the property. They put out a fundraising appeal to do that, but in order to get people to ante up then they had to do something about the people who showed up thinking it is a sport crag only to realize it isn't always a sport crag. Or, to put it another way, they dumbed it down by giving the climber the beta rather than letting the "adventure" speak for itself. Less risk = more climbers = more money put in the box in the parking lot.
But, I could be way off the mark, so if I am - SORRY!  
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olderic
Mar 23, 2010, 1:11 AM
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Pretty much what Greg said. They have been sending out mixed messages for awhile. Support us - donate to our cause. we have great climbing - just don't come yet. Part of their grand plan was not to over bolt - not to create a Parking lot Wall. That seems to have gone by the boards with some recent development I have heard of.
But I don't want to sound negative because I am not. The climbing IS great the WMCC folks are real stand up individuals and some of my dearest friends. They are walking a think line. I don't think they are currently facing any financial crisis - they have sold the house. I think it will be awhile before a guidebook ever appears - that is sort of their most basic value. (but if you could see the ~300 routes described on my son's laptop.....shhh).
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robbovius
Mar 23, 2010, 2:52 PM
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olderic wrote: Pretty much what Greg said. They have been sending out mixed messages for awhile. Support us - donate to our cause. we have great climbing - just don't come yet. Part of their grand plan was not to over bolt - not to create a Parking lot Wall. That seems to have gone by the boards with some recent development I have heard of. But I don't want to sound negative because I am not. The climbing IS great the WMCC folks are real stand up individuals and some of my dearest friends. They are walking a think line. I don't think they are currently facing any financial crisis - they have sold the house. I think it will be awhile before a guidebook ever appears - that is sort of their most basic value. (but if you could see the ~300 routes described on my son's laptop.....shhh).
Farley Sucks. don't ever go there. but if you do, have a bad time and post about how bad it was.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Mar 23, 2010, 2:53 PM)
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c4c
Mar 25, 2010, 2:53 AM
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robbovius wrote: olderic wrote: Pretty much what Greg said. They have been sending out mixed messages for awhile. Support us - donate to our cause. we have great climbing - just don't come yet. Part of their grand plan was not to over bolt - not to create a Parking lot Wall. That seems to have gone by the boards with some recent development I have heard of. But I don't want to sound negative because I am not. The climbing IS great the WMCC folks are real stand up individuals and some of my dearest friends. They are walking a think line. I don't think they are currently facing any financial crisis - they have sold the house. I think it will be awhile before a guidebook ever appears - that is sort of their most basic value. (but if you could see the ~300 routes described on my son's laptop.....shhh). Farley Sucks. don't ever go there. but if you do, have a bad time and post about how bad it was.
I went there once. It was the biggest pile of choss I have ever climbed on!
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coffeehead112
Mar 28, 2010, 4:03 PM
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hey guys, I'm new to the site here and climbing. I am having problem finding people to start climbing with me, most of my friends are gamming geeks and would turn to ash once they hit the sun. Any advice about how to find other climbing beginners in the mass area?
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olderic
Mar 29, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Anyone know anything about the graffitti that has sprung up (like spring flowers) at Colege Rock on the past couple of weeks?
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robbovius
Mar 30, 2010, 1:13 AM
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olderic wrote: Anyone know anything about the graffitti that has sprung up (like spring flowers) at Colege Rock on the past couple of weeks?
ahhh fuck, fucking asshole teenagers. was only a matter of time I suppose.
surprise night-time visits perhaps to catch them and chase them off?
what's the best way to clean it off...nylon brushes?
this is really disheartening and sad.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Mar 30, 2010, 1:17 AM)
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robbovius
Mar 30, 2010, 1:20 AM
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coffeehead112 wrote: hey guys, I'm new to the site here and climbing. I am having problem finding people to start climbing with me, most of my friends are gamming geeks and would turn to ash once they hit the sun. Any advice about how to find other climbing beginners in the mass area?
hey coffehead, check out one of the local gyms, or meetup.com there are several rockclimbing meetups going locally.
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jakedatc
Mar 30, 2010, 2:35 AM
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robbovius wrote: olderic wrote: Anyone know anything about the graffitti that has sprung up (like spring flowers) at Colege Rock on the past couple of weeks? ahhh fuck, fucking asshole teenagers. was only a matter of time I suppose. surprise night-time visits perhaps to catch them and chase them off? what's the best way to clean it off...nylon brushes? this is really disheartening and sad.
send a pm to Dana on Newenglandbouldering.com they used something at Lincoln woods a while back that works pretty well. especially if it is new it should come off easier.
oh and climbing news.. back from the Red river gorge.. place is shit.. don't go there.. seriously. choss pile
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