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Louern
Apr 13, 2010, 3:20 AM
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I searched for this in the forum and could not find it.
I am in the process of replacing old webbing etc. My hexes are the old slung type and I bought 5.5 mil nylon on a wim. Its tensile strength is 1300 lbs with I think is around 5.5 kN.
Is this enough and how much stronger is Spectra or some other cord?
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clc
Apr 13, 2010, 1:30 PM
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Are you sure the 5.5mm is nylon. that's an odd size. really small nuts have a breaking strengths of 2-4kn and are usually used only for aid. Most gear is rated 10-15kn strength. So your 5.5kn cord seems way to fucking weak man
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MS1
Apr 13, 2010, 2:49 PM
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Louern wrote: I searched for this in the forum and could not find it. I am in the process of replacing old webbing etc. My hexes are the old slung type and I bought 5.5 mil nylon on a wim. Its tensile strength is 1300 lbs with I think is around 5.5 kN. Is this enough and how much stronger is Spectra or some other cord?
That 5.5 kn cord would probably survive a good variety of lead falls. But I'd worry about it snapping in a high-fall-factor situation. The question is, do you value your life more than the $20 you'd need to spend to have peace of mind across the board?
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hansundfritz
Apr 13, 2010, 3:07 PM
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The oldest slung hexes have holes large enough to accommodate perlon up to 8 or 9 mm. When super-strong KEVLAR came out, the holes were reduced to 5.5 mm. (I'm assuming that this is what you have since you bought 5.5 mm nylon.)
Putting 5.5 mm nylon in there would be a big sacrifice in strength. Use the new 5.5 mm tech cord (which essentially replaces the kevlar stuff we had in the 80s and 90s).
You might consider consulting with a good climbing shop on this -- like the Gendarme at Seneca or Rock and Snow at the Gunks. They cater to lots of old-timers who are still using older stuff and know the best approach to reslinging.
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Louern
Apr 13, 2010, 3:32 PM
Post #6 of 16
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Thanks. I think the holes are 5.5. The 5.5 cord goes in real nice. I wanted better material/brand name but the nylon was what they had and I thought it was comparable. I'll hold out for the good stuff and use the big lengths I got for boot laces. By the sounds of it though it should be good enough for TR which is what I planned on
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jbro_135
Apr 13, 2010, 3:34 PM
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I wouldn't toprope on 5.5.
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vegastradguy
Apr 13, 2010, 4:12 PM
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all 5.5mm cord available has an aramid core (usually kevlar) with a nylon sheath and is rated in the 5000lb range, is usually very stiff, and very expensive. this is why you can melt the sheath of this type of cord, but not the core.
there is no spectra cord out there, as far as i know- spectra does not hold dyes, so any spectra cord would be white (hence the reason all those skinny slings out there are white- the color in them is nylon).
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majid_sabet
Apr 13, 2010, 4:13 PM
Post #9 of 16
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clc wrote: Are you sure the 5.5mm is nylon. that's an odd size. really small nuts have a breaking strengths of 2-4kn and are usually used only for aid. Most gear is rated 10-15kn strength. So your 5.5kn cord seems way to fucking weak man
5.5 Kn x 2 =11 kn - 30% = @ 8KN.
That should be ok
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ptlong
Apr 13, 2010, 5:09 PM
Post #10 of 16
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vegastradguy wrote: all 5.5mm cord available has an aramid core (usually kevlar) with a nylon sheath and is rated in the 5000lb range, is usually very stiff, and very expensive. this is why you can melt the sheath of this type of cord, but not the core. there is no spectra cord out there, as far as i know- spectra does not hold dyes, so any spectra cord would be white (hence the reason all those skinny slings out there are white- the color in them is nylon).
Bluewater Titan 5.5mm has a spectra/nylon core and is a lot stronger than perlon cord of the same diameter.
It used to be you slung hexes with Gemini cord, which had a kevlar core and was nice and stiff making it easier to place a hex above your head. Nowadays for slinging old-style hexes or Big Bros you can use the spectra stuff like Titan. Or maybe Maxim Tech cord would do? It has some sort of aramid core but isn't quite as stiff as the old Gemini was.
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Lazlo
Apr 13, 2010, 7:35 PM
Post #11 of 16
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jbro_135 wrote: I wouldn't toprope on 5.5.
I would
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jbro_135
Apr 13, 2010, 8:50 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Lazlo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: I wouldn't toprope on 5.5. I would
The OP is talking about 5.5 mil perlon cord, or at least that's what i gathered? I would have no problems on 5.5 mil tech cord but that's not really the point is it?
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Louern
Apr 13, 2010, 9:55 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Since I wasn't able to buy local I went with the "power cord" made with Technora. 6 mm. 4800 lbs t strength. Next I gotta resling the tri cams and spring cams, loose 50 pounds and I'll be set. 20 ought to do it actually.
thanks
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vegastradguy
Apr 23, 2010, 1:42 AM
Post #15 of 16
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jbro_135 wrote: Lazlo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: I wouldn't toprope on 5.5. I would The OP is talking about 5.5 mil perlon cord, or at least that's what i gathered? I would have no problems on 5.5 mil tech cord but that's not really the point is it?
all 5.5 cord is tech cord- they dont make 5.5 perlon.
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USnavy
Apr 24, 2010, 9:52 AM
Post #16 of 16
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majid_sabet wrote: clc wrote: Are you sure the 5.5mm is nylon. that's an odd size. really small nuts have a breaking strengths of 2-4kn and are usually used only for aid. Most gear is rated 10-15kn strength. So your 5.5kn cord seems way to fucking weak man 5.5 Kn x 2 =11 kn - 30% = @ 8KN. That should be ok
Its more like (5.5 kN x 2) - 40 to 45%... I tested a piece of 1" webbing rated for 19 kN tied in a loop. It failed at 22 kN (and it did not fail at the knot). That is a strength decrease of 42%. I have tested cordelette and the results are pretty much the same.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 24, 2010, 9:57 AM)
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