i bet 100 internet dollars that someone tells you to buy The Self Coached Climber...

if you want to be a competitive team, and none of you is experienced enough to be the coach, then i hate to break it to you, but you're not going to be very competitive. getting strong is easy, getting good is very very very difficult.

Seems simple enuf, find the limit grade of your weakest climber and then start the team from their.

The better climbers most likely have better skill and physical abillity all round.. but i guess the technique should really be the focus of what they share with the lower climbers, by talking and by practical. The physical side will just grow as a side product.

Well atleast if i was in such a team.. id be gunning for us all pushing the same or very close to the same grades. And all being on the same wave length about technique. Im still watching loads of comps on youtube and other sources in my spare time just to see how diffrent people solve the same route/problems.

I cant really see the point in being a team if your all kinde working at your own level.

Seems simple enuf, find the limit grade of your weakest climber and then start the team from their.

The better climbers most likely have better skill and physical abillity all round.. but i guess the technique should really be the focus of what they share with the lower climbers, by talking and by practical. The physical side will just grow as a side product.

Well atleast if i was in such a team.. id be gunning for us all pushing the same or very close to the same grades. And all being on the same wave length about technique. Im still watching loads of comps on youtube and other sources in my spare time just to see how diffrent people solve the same route/problems.

I cant really see the point in being a team if your all kinde working at your own level.

this is just plain retarded.

of course everyone is working at their own level, that is the entire concept of training together. The weaker climbers generally get inspired by trying to catch up to the stronger climbers, who in turn provide feedback to them, and are often motivated by the improvement.

everyone has their own technique, also part of being involved in an individual sport. you have a coach who guides each *individual* person to a best fit of climbing style, strength and technique.

i think it would be best if you didn't respond to things you know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about.

pacman - yes, i am suggesting that one of your better climbers take the reigns for the team, but only if they are also a good teacher.

Bolix m8. They all need to be climbing the same projects, how can they get to know each others strengths and weakness if their all doing their own thing?.. if they cant understand they way each other climb then they cant give good feedback.

So whats your answer? a guy whos on 8a should simply blast through a 6a and then say to the guy who cant do the 6a ''thats how its done!''. How is that helping?. He needs to take the time to climb every move with the guy and take into acount all the factors like hieght and diffrent styles of technique.
Its not somthing he can teach the guy by just flashing routes ''copy me'' and then getting on with his own thing.

you, are a complete and utter idiot. this much is clear. i have not suggested anything like what you have described.

how many years have you coached climbing for? no? none? so not 15 years like i have? right then. STFU.

Where's your team at. I might know someone.

and having coached climbing for a LONG time,

i would suggest that 5 hours is far too long people get far too tired, and also lose focus. 3 hours is plenty, and 2 is ideal.

(this 1 hour warm up is ridiculous, and a 45 minute cool down is unnecessary, people should stretch on their own when practice has ended.)

movement should take care of itself in each and every move of every workout. only focus on technique when you see people displaying specific technique deficiencies or problems.

I agree, that 2 hours is plenty long enough if you are climbing the entire time with limited rests. Volume of movement is the key to improvement the first few years of climbing, no substitute for that. Any longer, and kids or adults loose interest, rest more, etc.

So, what is quantitative movement analysis and how could it benefit a climber?

In my experience, movement skills are developed over time, by climbing many moves over a period of years, but not taught. Yes, technical skills can be taught, movement skills however, are more intuitive and come with the feel that is unique to that individual. The best climbers in the world will climb the same high level problem and look completely different, as they have developed different movement skills over the time unique to that individual.

O.K. but from your profile I see that I've been a coach longer than you have been climbing. Just say'n!


Well, it depends upon the size of the team and the location of the training sessions. I admit I was making certain assumptions concerning these issues. A small team at a large crag or gym, could be done in 2-3 hours. On the other hand a big team in a small gym = training will need to be done in shifts and will take a very long time.



that's pretty strong language. A great deal of work gets done in a warm-up, this is the very best place to do certain types of movement training and working on specific issues for each climber ranging from anxiety over lead climbing, to climbers who avoid certain types of movement or holds, and so on. Further, a good cool down = less soreness / stiffness in the days to come. Finally, few climbers can be counted on to do good stretching on their own. Also keep in mind the context of the question. College climbers with only a couple of years experience are not going to know what to stretch or how to stretch in ways that make sense for climbing so they will need some help learning how to do this. Perhaps after going through a few climbing specific stretching session with the team and learning how its done they could shift to doing their stretches alone.


Movement only takes care of itself for a very small number of individuals. Many hour can be spent working on movement even with climbers who red point 5.14 or harder and boulder V10 or harder. Of course quantitive movement analysis procedures are necessary and few people in the climbing world know these. nonetheless, the point remains that movement is an extremely complex issue in climbing, that few people have ever taken the time to understand, it can't be dismissed. Saying that, I admit that in the context of the OP my point is essentially academic because there is no one who is part of the team that is going to know enough kinesiology to take on such issues or know how to address them.

i bet 100 internet dollars that someone tells you to buy The Self Coached Climber...

...

getting strong is easy, getting good is very very very difficult.

Ohh the irony is so thick! You sarcastically recommend exactly what should be recommended and then make a pretty sound statement, yet here you are, essentially back tracking on what it takes to get good. If you disagree with Fluxus, that's fine, but it only proves you have no idea what you're talking about and that the OP should completely disregard your advice because the only credentials you've provided prove your ignorance on the subject.

i bet 100 internet dollars that someone tells you to buy The Self Coached Climber...

but you know who Fluxus is, don't you?
just curious...