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desertwanderer81
Jul 27, 2010, 2:25 PM
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Does anyone else have this problem? When I follow, I completely lose my lead head. What is happening is that my mind doesn't go into the zone unless I am leading and I get completely freaked out doing moves that I couldn't make in that current mental state.
Does anyone else have that problem?
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rtwilli4
Jul 27, 2010, 2:34 PM
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I think a lot of people do. You need to change your thought process. You are freaked out because you don't feel in control anymore. All of the sudden, someone is pulling you up and this rope keeps getting in your way. You're getting pulled in un-natural directions and your belayer probably can't hear you or see you.
Instead of worrying about falling or doing something wrong, look at following for what it is... following. You are only doing this so that you can lead the next pitch. You are just trying to make progress up the wall. The leader has already done the route, and you are just cleaning it up, warming up for the next lead. It is an essential part of climbing, and it must be done effeciently if you are going to make fast progress. It is just as important as leading effeciently. Take it seriously, don't think it will be easier than leading... cuz it will probably be harder!
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desertwanderer81
Jul 27, 2010, 3:10 PM
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Heh, I think that's mostly my mindset, and probably part of the reason why I get sketched. When I'm leading I plan out or feel out all of my moves before I make them so that they're all seamless and flawless. When I'm following I'm trying to move fast and efficiently and not making the cleanest moves possible.
As funny as it might sound, it's the lack of danger which is my problem. When I'm leading, it's the danger which locks on my head. The adrenaline flows and everything sharpens to a finely honed knife. Without that adrenaline, I have absolutely zero head for leading. So when I'm following... I get completely sketched out because I'm making moves I wouldn't feel comfortable with leading at that time.
I think you're right though, I just need to focus down on the moves and pretend like I'm superman with a rope attached to myself, heh.
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kaizen
Jul 27, 2010, 3:28 PM
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I have the same problem. I actually find that top roping sketches me out more than a bit of runout or soloing. Thanks for posting your thoughts - makes me realize I'm not alone.
Then again, I have yet to lead an X rated pitch or have a piece pull out on me during a fall.
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desertwanderer81
Jul 27, 2010, 3:36 PM
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kaizen wrote: I have the same problem. I actually find that top roping sketches me out more than a bit of runout or soloing. Thanks for posting your thoughts - makes me realize I'm not alone. Then again, I have yet to lead an X rated pitch or have a piece pull out on me during a fall.
Funny that you mention that. When I TR something, I have to do a line which is wayyy above my ability level so that I'm practically falling up it. Otherwise I too get sketched. Heaven's forbid I try to TR a 10, then my head is messed up for a week or so, heh.
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bill413
Jul 27, 2010, 6:05 PM
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I think that part of it is projection. If you're following you can get to imagining what it would be like to lead - "My god! Would I do this on lead? Would I go that far above my last piece? Where did she find the stance to put this nut in?"
When you lead, you are in lead mode - you're doing a different kind of "what-if"
Sometimes I find it hard to swing leads because of the mental flip-flop that occurs.
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fresh
Aug 3, 2010, 3:52 PM
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I know that I tend to underestimate how hard it can be to follow a pitch, especially if the gear is welded in. it's like, I'm on toprope, it's supposed to be easy! but it's way different from running laps on toprope at the crag. when you let yourself get into the "OK, I can rest now" mentality just because you're following, you're setting yourself up for a shock. maybe if we can resist the need for security or a break from the stress, it'll be easier to make the transition from leading to following?
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spikeddem
Aug 3, 2010, 5:28 PM
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Based upon the OP, this belongs in the Women's Climbing forum.
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carabiner96
Aug 3, 2010, 7:11 PM
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spikeddem wrote: Based upon the OP, this belongs in the Women's Climbing forum.
Classy.
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spikeddem
Aug 3, 2010, 7:32 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: spikeddem wrote: Based upon the OP, this belongs in the Women's Climbing forum. Classy.
Nothing but love. 
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