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socalclimber
Aug 3, 2010, 9:09 PM
Post #26 of 39
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deljes30 wrote: So I just started climbing about 3 weeks ago and and go 2-3 times per week. When I first started I could barely make it up the easiest well. Now I can feel myself getting stronger and have nailed every 5.6 at VE and many of the 5.7s. I thought this was average for only having climbed 3 weeks, and being short (5'4). I guess I'm wondering what is normal when a person starts climbing? I've been getting a lot of heat from one of the instructors here about how anyone should be able to do a 5.7 easily. I'm confused. Any tips?
You are getting extremely bad advice from this clown. Ignore this person, they don't know what they are talking about.
Do not get complacent with the numbers (ratings). There are plenty of 5.7 and 5.8 routes out there that will scare the hell out of the most seasoned of climbers. Think very run out with a horrible outcome if you fall.
Get out there and climb on routes you can do. Work on your technique. Get your foot work dialed.
You'll do just fine.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 5, 2010, 5:17 AM
Post #27 of 39
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dagibbs wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: My personal definition of a 5.7 though is a climb which anyone who is moderately in shape and who isn't scared stiff should be able to do with a little bit of trouble on their first time out. Obviously this is not true for everywhere (like the gunks or specific techniques like crack climbing) but that is what I consider a 5.7 to be. 5.6's should be fairly easy for any beginner. 5.8's should be doable clean for beginners who are in very good shape and are very bold or the average person after 5 or 6 trips out. 5.9's should be doable clean for beginners who are only in the very best shape/complete naturals, people who are in very good shape/head after 5 or 6 trips, or the average person after 20 or so climbing trips. Wow! The grades sure are soft out where you climb. For the rock around here, I'd knock about 3 -4 grades off what you suggested -- that is, I'd expect a 5.2 to be easy for any beginner, and a 5.3 to be a bit of trouble, but doable. Thinking of a couple local 5.6s -- one has a thin and technical slab section, another is an off-width crack. On neither would a beginner have any hope. (Here being the Gatineaus, outside Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.) I don't know if it makes any difference to you, dagibbs, but the first poster is likely saying that these people could hangdog their way up those routes, not necessarily climb cleanly on their first try. I wasn't thinking climb cleanly either. I've taken new, or nearly new, climbers out on some of these climbs. A couple of the 5.3s I'm thinking of are about 25m (80') long single-pitch, and I've found a moderate beginner, with encouragement and a couple rests on the rope can usually make it up those climbs. I've also had moderately in-shape people fail to get the opening moves on 5.3s around here.
Yeah, you're probably right. The places I've climbed most extensively (gunks, yosemite, red rocks, lover's leap, and donner summit) were all pretty soft in the grades :p
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dagibbs
Aug 5, 2010, 1:23 PM
Post #28 of 39
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desertwanderer81 wrote: dagibbs wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: 5.8's should be doable clean for beginners who are in very good shape and are very bold or the average person after 5 or 6 trips out. Wow! The grades sure are soft out where you climb. (Here being the Gatineaus, outside Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.) I don't know if it makes any difference to you, dagibbs, but the first poster is likely saying that these people could hangdog their way up those routes, not necessarily climb cleanly on their first try. I wasn't thinking climb cleanly either. ... I've also had moderately in-shape people fail to get the opening moves on 5.3s around here. Yeah, you're probably right. The places I've climbed most extensively (gunks, yosemite, red rocks, lover's leap, and donner summit) were all pretty soft in the grades :p
I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8.
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spikeddem
Aug 5, 2010, 1:27 PM
Post #29 of 39
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dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: dagibbs wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: 5.8's should be doable clean for beginners who are in very good shape and are very bold or the average person after 5 or 6 trips out. Wow! The grades sure are soft out where you climb. (Here being the Gatineaus, outside Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.) I don't know if it makes any difference to you, dagibbs, but the first poster is likely saying that these people could hangdog their way up those routes, not necessarily climb cleanly on their first try. I wasn't thinking climb cleanly either. ... I've also had moderately in-shape people fail to get the opening moves on 5.3s around here. Yeah, you're probably right. The places I've climbed most extensively (gunks, yosemite, red rocks, lover's leap, and donner summit) were all pretty soft in the grades :p I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8.
Not sure why Red Rock is included in that list...it is soft.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 5, 2010, 3:51 PM
Post #30 of 39
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spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: dagibbs wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: 5.8's should be doable clean for beginners who are in very good shape and are very bold or the average person after 5 or 6 trips out. Wow! The grades sure are soft out where you climb. (Here being the Gatineaus, outside Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.) Only on the easy sport stuff really. I was just naming the places that I've spent over 20 days climbing at, heh. I don't know if it makes any difference to you, dagibbs, but the first poster is likely saying that these people could hangdog their way up those routes, not necessarily climb cleanly on their first try. I wasn't thinking climb cleanly either. ... I've also had moderately in-shape people fail to get the opening moves on 5.3s around here. Yeah, you're probably right. The places I've climbed most extensively (gunks, yosemite, red rocks, lover's leap, and donner summit) were all pretty soft in the grades :p I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8. Not sure why Red Rock is included in that list...it is soft. |
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spikeddem
Aug 5, 2010, 3:57 PM
Post #31 of 39
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desertwanderer81 wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: dagibbs wrote: spikeddem wrote: dagibbs wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: 5.8's should be doable clean for beginners who are in very good shape and are very bold or the average person after 5 or 6 trips out. Wow! The grades sure are soft out where you climb. (Here being the Gatineaus, outside Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.) Only on the easy sport stuff really. I was just naming the places that I've spent over 20 days climbing at, heh. I don't know if it makes any difference to you, dagibbs, but the first poster is likely saying that these people could hangdog their way up those routes, not necessarily climb cleanly on their first try. I wasn't thinking climb cleanly either. ... I've also had moderately in-shape people fail to get the opening moves on 5.3s around here. Yeah, you're probably right. The places I've climbed most extensively (gunks, yosemite, red rocks, lover's leap, and donner summit) were all pretty soft in the grades :p I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8. Not sure why Red Rock is included in that list...it is soft.
Prosperity or did you just forget to type...?
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kriso9tails
Aug 5, 2010, 5:40 PM
Post #32 of 39
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dagibbs wrote: I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8.
That doesn't fit so much with my experience. The 5.8+ - 5.9+ range can throw some mean surprises compared to other areas, but I don't really remember grades lower than that being overly stiff.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 5, 2010, 11:44 PM
Post #33 of 39
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Ha, for sure. Any climb at the gunks that has a "+" should have 2 grades added to the base number ;)
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curt
Aug 6, 2010, 6:31 AM
Post #34 of 39
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kriso9tails wrote: dagibbs wrote: I haven't climbed at any of those. But, from the stories I've heard about the gunks, I wouldn't expect any beginner to make it up a gunks 5.8. That doesn't fit so much with my experience. The 5.8+ - 5.9+ range can throw some mean surprises compared to other areas, but I don't really remember grades lower than that being overly stiff.
Actually, it's the lower Gunks grades that are particularly stiff. Once you're up to 5.11 and 5.12 (some 5.10, too) the Gunks grades correlate pretty well with most other places.
As a good example, check out "Something Interesting" for a full value 5.7 experience.
Curt
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kriso9tails
Aug 6, 2010, 6:37 AM
Post #35 of 39
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I just don't remember most of the 7s and 8s that I've climbed there being that far out of whack. I only really remember it being an issue around the 5.9 mark where the grading scale used to cap out once upon a time.
Then again, most of the routes I started placing gear on were likely developed in that era.
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curt
Aug 6, 2010, 7:58 AM
Post #36 of 39
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kriso9tails wrote: I just don't remember most of the 7s and 8s that I've climbed there being that far out of whack. I only really remember it being an issue around the 5.9 mark where the grading scale used to cap out once upon a time...
It actually "capped out" long before that and Wiessner only reluctantly assigned the new higher grade of 5.8 to Minnie Belle.
Curt
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dynosore
Aug 6, 2010, 2:08 PM
Post #37 of 39
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Just enjoy climbing and you'll find your groove. I pushed myself hard the first couple years and progressed pretty fast. But 2 shoulder surgeries later those days are gone. I found out through the whole experience that my favorite thing is to climb easy routes in big mountains sans rope and partner. I still enjoy pushing the grade now and then but it's not nearly as important as it used to be.
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dynosore
Aug 6, 2010, 2:11 PM
Post #38 of 39
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kriso9tails wrote: I just don't remember most of the 7s and 8s that I've climbed there being that far out of whack. I only really remember it being an issue around the 5.9 mark where the grading scale used to cap out once upon a time. Then again, most of the routes I started placing gear on were likely developed in that era.
I had just started leading and I did a trip to the Needles in SD. 5.7 and 5.8 can be very hard. I was solid on 10's and did a 5.11 on toprope at Devils Lake just before this trip. I was scared out of my mind.
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NicciVicious
Aug 10, 2010, 7:38 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Aug 10, 2010
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i've been climbing for about two months now so im still a noob. i am climbing 5.6s some 5.7s, and have even been working on a 5.8+. my bf keeps telling me not to worry some routes suit you better than others. im just having fun [cool] . i just sterted traversing as wellto help build up strength and skill. everyone's right your instructor sounds like a douche. you should find someone more encouraging. i always feel great even when i've just only gotten partway up a route and my bf tells me how awesome i did and that he's proud. trust me encouragement helps boost that cofidence and i feel confidence is key.
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